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Old 03-27-2013, 05:34 PM   #2626
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What was the reason for the hard to spin spot on the front ring and pinion?
If I remember right it is supposed to just wear in. Could someone refresh my memory??
If I hold the shaft on the pinion gear and spin the whole bulkhead I can get 3 easy full turns and the its hard for 1 turn is this a problem or will it wear in??
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Old 03-27-2013, 05:40 PM   #2627
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Casper / hacker07 - any input in the diff wobble? Should we be concerned?

As for temps and run times, I'm running the castle mmp and 3800kv combo and 1 back on a high bite clay track (~18mins30second) my temps were 90f and 135f Esc/ motor. Got to say I'm loving the setup, nice and cool. And my run times are great and I'm using sky lipos 5000 mah 20c so they aren't even the best batteries.

I don't even think I could deal with anymore power... But I'm still tempted to pick up the pro4hd 4300 when it comes out just to have a smooth sensored setup.
What are you geared at wth the 3800?
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Old 03-27-2013, 05:44 PM   #2628
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Yea I had to reduce travel in my servo to 80% and man does she still turn on a dime. I like the way it drove on the inner hole way more
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Old 03-27-2013, 05:49 PM   #2629
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Originally Posted by Gas Rat Racin View Post
What was the reason for the hard to spin spot on the front ring and pinion?
If I remember right it is supposed to just wear in. Could someone refresh my memory??
If I hold the shaft on the pinion gear and spin the whole bulkhead I can get 3 easy full turns and the its hard for 1 turn is this a problem or will it wear in??
I experienced this with the front diff., after carefully assembling all three. It broke in after 1 battery pack through it. So, I wouldn't be too concerned about it.

Last edited by stvnmccc; 03-27-2013 at 05:50 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 03-27-2013, 06:09 PM   #2630
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Originally Posted by Gas Rat Racin View Post
What was the reason for the hard to spin spot on the front ring and pinion?
If I remember right it is supposed to just wear in. Could someone refresh my memory??
If I hold the shaft on the pinion gear and spin the whole bulkhead I can get 3 easy full turns and the its hard for 1 turn is this a problem or will it wear in??
Check to make sure all the screws are tight in the diff so that the ring gear is flush as this will cause even the slightest wobble and this could cause it AND also make sure all your bearings are pushed on the diff case til they bottom out on the case
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Old 03-27-2013, 06:49 PM   #2631
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Lighter oil will make traction rolling worse.
I would try lowering ride height first, then stiffer sway bars, then stiffer springs and thicker oil. Reducing negative camber can also be a quick help.
Thanks for the tips DTR, I will try some of these things first. I think it might just be that I need to adjust my driving style as this truck is so much more settled than the old one. I used to rely on the little bounce the old truck made after landing to kick the rear out for the next corner in a few spots. The new truck is much more planted so doesn't do the bounce..the rear just bites hard and over she goes.
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Old 03-27-2013, 07:01 PM   #2632
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Nice tips on the diff!
I started the build today. Gotta say, metric/standard sizes are killing me LOL
Felt the front diff notchy but will break them in, stripped one diff screw already- lesson learned
Overall good quality so far.
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Old 03-27-2013, 07:04 PM   #2633
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What are the right methods for lowering the ride height?
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Old 03-27-2013, 07:11 PM   #2634
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Set your shocks in the posistion you want them on the shock towers and control arms then just turn the upper collar the corresponding direction you want it to go...twist them up to the top of the shock body to lower and screw them down to raise it
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Old 03-27-2013, 07:21 PM   #2635
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Oh well then I know how do that ! I thought there was a way to adjust the height while building the shocks or something... Good to know!
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Old 03-27-2013, 07:24 PM   #2636
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Oh well then I know how do that ! I thought there was a way to adjust the height while building the shocks or something... Good to know!
No, that is rebound you might be thinking of
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Old 03-27-2013, 08:41 PM   #2637
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So I run through a set of tires every practice day... And even though that's only like $18 out of my pocket (thanks lhs) I would like to find a practice tire.

We run barcodes and pressure point at the track, I'm not too worried about loosing a bit of traction if I could find a decent tire that last a bit longer haha
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Old 03-27-2013, 08:55 PM   #2638
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FYI for the LOSI guys. During my build I was prepared for the diff screw issue that others were having as I had purchased the HPI screws. Built the first 2 diffs and thought pfft what are people talking about. The 3rd diff however...holy cow was it tight. Fairly sure the stock screws would have stripped and I was concerned about the HPI screws as well with how hard I hard to lean on them. The third diff whilst functioning perfectly has very noticeably bulges where the screws run through the cups. Might be worth doing a sample of the cups and checking them out in case you have an intermittent production issue with them. The truck is amazing..just glad I got the HPI screws before the build.
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Old 03-27-2013, 08:59 PM   #2639
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So I run through a set of tires every practice day... And even though that's only like $18 out of my pocket (thanks lhs) I would like to find a practice tire.

We run barcodes and pressure point at the track, I'm not too worried about loosing a bit of traction if I could find a decent tire that last a bit longer haha


Actually the Pressure points are good tires and grip pretty good in Soft compound and Gold i run them on carpet i should know ! The wear rate is much better than the tread that Barcodes and Panther Ratter tires have i know that im surprised they ware you fast.

So on Clay the Pressure points should work good and the wear to.

I would check them out .


Braz: Yea man i could of told you that one them HPI screws just much better for the diffs ! They are kind of hard to fine online though.
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Old 03-27-2013, 09:49 PM   #2640
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Originally Posted by Gas Rat Racin View Post
What was the reason for the hard to spin spot on the front ring and pinion?
If I remember right it is supposed to just wear in. Could someone refresh my memory??
If I hold the shaft on the pinion gear and spin the whole bulkhead I can get 3 easy full turns and the its hard for 1 turn is this a problem or will it wear in??
On my scte1.o I had a front ring gear that was oval shaped I posted about on the other thread. If you have calipers you could check to see that it is round.
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