TLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread
#2281
Tech Apprentice
Always happy to share...this is from memory...lol...and the important stuff.
As always, I will give my disclaimer that brakes are the biggest cause of heat issues and while I set them at 100 in the esc, they are always down between 45-55 on my radio. Definately using the 223 software...so nice! Geared with 14 tooth pinion and stock 40t spur.
current limiter - 80%
drag brake - 12 (this is not for everyone and takes some getting used to)
timing at factory end points and 10%
expo is linear
brake strength at 100 (again turned way down around 45-55 in radio)
neutral width at 32
throttle min at 3
brake min at 0
As always, I will give my disclaimer that brakes are the biggest cause of heat issues and while I set them at 100 in the esc, they are always down between 45-55 on my radio. Definately using the 223 software...so nice! Geared with 14 tooth pinion and stock 40t spur.
current limiter - 80%
drag brake - 12 (this is not for everyone and takes some getting used to)
timing at factory end points and 10%
expo is linear
brake strength at 100 (again turned way down around 45-55 in radio)
neutral width at 32
throttle min at 3
brake min at 0
I wanted to also confirm my thoughts on the 4-40 Aluminum lock-nuts for the shock shafts as they are better suited when gluing piston holes. I swapped mine out last night. I did notice a change to the rebound setting however. I set them last night (just as Dustin explains in his youtube vid) and this morning they are already off (more rebound)? and there appears to be some negative rebound when fully extended. The temp is relatively the same and the cap and bleed screw are tight.
So my questions are: Is this expected? Is it recommended they be checked before a race in the pits? Thanks again!!!
#2283
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (34)
That's great! Are you considering normal and tapered pistons?
As always Ryan thank you for the information. I was looking at some of the other RX8 setup sheets and to my surprise I saw a few that had up to 10 degrees of timing. I could have sworn it was advised not to do this back in the 1.0 thread. I'll bring it up in the RX8 thread none the less, just thought I'd share.
I wanted to also confirm my thoughts on the 4-40 Aluminum lock-nuts for the shock shafts as they are better suited when gluing piston holes. I swapped mine out last night. I did notice a change to the rebound setting however. I set them last night (just as Dustin explains in his youtube vid) and this morning they are already off (more rebound)? and there appears to be some negative rebound when fully extended. The temp is relatively the same and the cap and bleed screw are tight.
So my questions are: Is this expected? Is it recommended they be checked before a race in the pits? Thanks again!!!
As always Ryan thank you for the information. I was looking at some of the other RX8 setup sheets and to my surprise I saw a few that had up to 10 degrees of timing. I could have sworn it was advised not to do this back in the 1.0 thread. I'll bring it up in the RX8 thread none the less, just thought I'd share.
I wanted to also confirm my thoughts on the 4-40 Aluminum lock-nuts for the shock shafts as they are better suited when gluing piston holes. I swapped mine out last night. I did notice a change to the rebound setting however. I set them last night (just as Dustin explains in his youtube vid) and this morning they are already off (more rebound)? and there appears to be some negative rebound when fully extended. The temp is relatively the same and the cap and bleed screw are tight.
So my questions are: Is this expected? Is it recommended they be checked before a race in the pits? Thanks again!!!
Emulsion shocks have air in them so it is a good idea to exercise the shocks a few times before setting ride height and rebound will be effected by tempurature. Top racers are always checking ride height and making fine adjustments before a run. This is something that is easy to do and often overlooked and can have a dramatic effect on the handling of your car.
#2284
Tech Apprentice
Just so you know on the Tekin the advanced timing slidder is a % of 30 total degrees. So 10 advance timing is only 3 deg of additional timing. This can and will add motor temp and also increased amp draw so you batteries will get warmer as well so be sure you have good batteries if you are going to start adding timing to your motor. These are the cautions when adding timing. It will effect performance but for most it is not needed and is harder on all your equipement so use with caution. Kind of why it is not recommended.
Emulsion shocks have air in them so it is a good idea to exercise the shocks a few times before setting ride height and rebound will be effected by tempurature. Top racers are always checking ride height and making fine adjustments before a run. This is something that is easy to do and often overlooked and can have a dramatic effect on the handling of your car.
Emulsion shocks have air in them so it is a good idea to exercise the shocks a few times before setting ride height and rebound will be effected by tempurature. Top racers are always checking ride height and making fine adjustments before a run. This is something that is easy to do and often overlooked and can have a dramatic effect on the handling of your car.
#2285
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (34)
Yeah as long as you don't get too much pack at the top of the stroke to indicate that is too much oil in the shocks they may have a little rebound or a slight suck back. Usually stroking them a few times equalizes out the shock as you mix the air back in. The SCTE shocks stay prety consistant and don't leak much if at all and don't take in extra air either so once they are setup the tend to stay pretty consistant.
#2286
Tech Rookie
Completely fresh build. Kept the old truck as a backup. Old truck had the castle 1410 motor and mamba max pro. After switching to tekin in my 1/10 buggies, I went to the RX8 setup here. The castle served me well, but this is sooooo much smoother.
Thanks,
Russ
Thanks,
Russ
#2287
Tech Master
iTrader: (25)
Completely fresh build. Kept the old truck as a backup. Old truck had the castle 1410 motor and mamba max pro. After switching to tekin in my 1/10 buggies, I went to the RX8 setup here. The castle served me well, but this is sooooo much smoother.
http://i1355.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8794eb76.jpg
http://i1355.photobucket.com/albums/...ps340dc28f.jpg
Thanks,
Russ
http://i1355.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8794eb76.jpg
http://i1355.photobucket.com/albums/...ps340dc28f.jpg
Thanks,
Russ
#2288
Looks good and I like the way you highlighted the TLR on the battery strap, looks great. For what its worth, you may want to try the position on the servo arm in both spots and see what you like. The outer hole that you have it in usually makes a bit of expo in teh steering versus what most of us run which is the inner hole.
#2291
Tech Rookie
Thanks for the tip on the servo Hacker! I just realized I did that by mistake.
bigbeej- I always believe in forcing hot air on my esc. Keeps it from freezing in Chicago weather! I will check flow. thanks for headsup!
Russ
#2292
Tech Master
iTrader: (83)
Thats what I imagined. I run a pretty small tight and technical track so the 1410 had plenty of power, but lacked throttle response.
Thanks for the tip on the servo Hacker! I just realized I did that by mistake.
bigbeej- I always believe in forcing hot air on my esc. Keeps it from freezing in Chicago weather! I will check flow. thanks for headsup!
Russ
Thanks for the tip on the servo Hacker! I just realized I did that by mistake.
bigbeej- I always believe in forcing hot air on my esc. Keeps it from freezing in Chicago weather! I will check flow. thanks for headsup!
Russ
#2293
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
I got them on with a socket and then did the finally tightening with just regular household pliers and grabbed where the socket would fit on the bottoms and it worked fine with alittle patients and effort OR heat them with a hair dryer or heat gun but that will also make them soft so you'll still have to be careful and patient
I did notice a change to the rebound setting however. I set them last night (just as Dustin explains in his youtube vid) and this morning they are already off (more rebound)? and there appears to be some negative rebound when fully extended. The temp is relatively the same and the cap and bleed screw are tight.
So my questions are: Is this expected? Is it recommended they be checked before a race in the pits? Thanks again!!!
So my questions are: Is this expected? Is it recommended they be checked before a race in the pits? Thanks again!!!
#2294
Emulsion shocks have air in them so it is a good idea to exercise the shocks a few times before setting ride height and rebound will be effected by tempurature. Top racers are always checking ride height and making fine adjustments before a run. This is something that is easy to do and often overlooked and can have a dramatic effect on the handling of your car.
I run mostly on a loose outdoor track with pretty good sized jumps and don't want the shocks to constantly bleed out of the caps, and am a little afraid that is what will happen
#2295
How is everyone venting their bodies? I ususally make about 7 holes through the windshield in the front, and some exit holes in the back. Is this recommended with the 2.0?