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Old 03-20-2013, 09:44 AM   #2281
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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
We are going to make the 2 x 1.3 machined piston so you don't have to glue 4 x 1.3s, coming soon!
That's great! Are you considering normal and tapered pistons?

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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
Always happy to share...this is from memory...lol...and the important stuff.
As always, I will give my disclaimer that brakes are the biggest cause of heat issues and while I set them at 100 in the esc, they are always down between 45-55 on my radio. Definately using the 223 software...so nice! Geared with 14 tooth pinion and stock 40t spur.

current limiter - 80%
drag brake - 12 (this is not for everyone and takes some getting used to)
timing at factory end points and 10%
expo is linear
brake strength at 100 (again turned way down around 45-55 in radio)
neutral width at 32
throttle min at 3
brake min at 0
As always Ryan thank you for the information. I was looking at some of the other RX8 setup sheets and to my surprise I saw a few that had up to 10 degrees of timing. I could have sworn it was advised not to do this back in the 1.0 thread. I'll bring it up in the RX8 thread none the less, just thought I'd share.

I wanted to also confirm my thoughts on the 4-40 Aluminum lock-nuts for the shock shafts as they are better suited when gluing piston holes. I swapped mine out last night. I did notice a change to the rebound setting however. I set them last night (just as Dustin explains in his youtube vid) and this morning they are already off (more rebound)? and there appears to be some negative rebound when fully extended. The temp is relatively the same and the cap and bleed screw are tight.

So my questions are: Is this expected? Is it recommended they be checked before a race in the pits? Thanks again!!!
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Old 03-20-2013, 09:46 AM   #2282
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Default LRP Flow with SCTE 2.0

I like the LRP stuff in mod touring car. Is anyone running the LRP Flow in their SCTE 2.0?

Thanks
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:05 AM   #2283
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Originally Posted by RC-Rick View Post
That's great! Are you considering normal and tapered pistons?



As always Ryan thank you for the information. I was looking at some of the other RX8 setup sheets and to my surprise I saw a few that had up to 10 degrees of timing. I could have sworn it was advised not to do this back in the 1.0 thread. I'll bring it up in the RX8 thread none the less, just thought I'd share.

I wanted to also confirm my thoughts on the 4-40 Aluminum lock-nuts for the shock shafts as they are better suited when gluing piston holes. I swapped mine out last night. I did notice a change to the rebound setting however. I set them last night (just as Dustin explains in his youtube vid) and this morning they are already off (more rebound)? and there appears to be some negative rebound when fully extended. The temp is relatively the same and the cap and bleed screw are tight.

So my questions are: Is this expected? Is it recommended they be checked before a race in the pits? Thanks again!!!
Just so you know on the Tekin the advanced timing slidder is a % of 30 total degrees. So 10 advance timing is only 3 deg of additional timing. This can and will add motor temp and also increased amp draw so you batteries will get warmer as well so be sure you have good batteries if you are going to start adding timing to your motor. These are the cautions when adding timing. It will effect performance but for most it is not needed and is harder on all your equipement so use with caution. Kind of why it is not recommended.

Emulsion shocks have air in them so it is a good idea to exercise the shocks a few times before setting ride height and rebound will be effected by tempurature. Top racers are always checking ride height and making fine adjustments before a run. This is something that is easy to do and often overlooked and can have a dramatic effect on the handling of your car.
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:00 AM   #2284
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Just so you know on the Tekin the advanced timing slidder is a % of 30 total degrees. So 10 advance timing is only 3 deg of additional timing. This can and will add motor temp and also increased amp draw so you batteries will get warmer as well so be sure you have good batteries if you are going to start adding timing to your motor. These are the cautions when adding timing. It will effect performance but for most it is not needed and is harder on all your equipement so use with caution. Kind of why it is not recommended.

Emulsion shocks have air in them so it is a good idea to exercise the shocks a few times before setting ride height and rebound will be effected by tempurature. Top racers are always checking ride height and making fine adjustments before a run. This is something that is easy to do and often overlooked and can have a dramatic effect on the handling of your car.
Thanks Casper, I'm very familiar with the ride height adjustments (something I picked up from Ryan 2 years ago at SDRC) But what it sounds like is there is less concern for shock behavior (i.e. compression &rebound) after it's initially set.
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:44 AM   #2285
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Originally Posted by RC-Rick View Post
Thanks Casper, I'm very familiar with the ride height adjustments (something I picked up from Ryan 2 years ago at SDRC) But what it sounds like is there is less concern for shock behavior (i.e. compression &rebound) after it's initially set.
Yeah as long as you don't get too much pack at the top of the stroke to indicate that is too much oil in the shocks they may have a little rebound or a slight suck back. Usually stroking them a few times equalizes out the shock as you mix the air back in. The SCTE shocks stay prety consistant and don't leak much if at all and don't take in extra air either so once they are setup the tend to stay pretty consistant.
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Old 03-20-2013, 12:59 PM   #2286
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Completely fresh build. Kept the old truck as a backup. Old truck had the castle 1410 motor and mamba max pro. After switching to tekin in my 1/10 buggies, I went to the RX8 setup here. The castle served me well, but this is sooooo much smoother.






Thanks,

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Old 03-20-2013, 01:01 PM   #2287
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Originally Posted by PureEvil95 View Post
Completely fresh build. Kept the old truck as a backup. Old truck had the castle 1410 motor and mamba max pro. After switching to tekin in my 1/10 buggies, I went to the RX8 setup here. The castle served me well, but this is sooooo much smoother.

http://i1355.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8794eb76.jpg

http://i1355.photobucket.com/albums/...ps340dc28f.jpg


Thanks,

Russ
You running sensored now on the RX8? That could be the reason you feel it is smoother. the 1410 isnt and is a torque monster. Sensored vs sensoreless is like comparing apples to oranges.
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Old 03-20-2013, 01:03 PM   #2288
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Originally Posted by PureEvil95 View Post
Completely fresh build. Kept the old truck as a backup. Old truck had the castle 1410 motor and mamba max pro. After switching to tekin in my 1/10 buggies, I went to the RX8 setup here. The castle served me well, but this is sooooo much smoother.






Thanks,

Russ
Looks good and I like the way you highlighted the TLR on the battery strap, looks great. For what its worth, you may want to try the position on the servo arm in both spots and see what you like. The outer hole that you have it in usually makes a bit of expo in teh steering versus what most of us run which is the inner hole.
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Old 03-20-2013, 01:05 PM   #2289
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heads up all ... Pro4HD have a release date of 4/20

Seriously thinking of getting the 4300 version for this truck...

Last edited by agarabaghi; 03-20-2013 at 01:41 PM.
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Old 03-20-2013, 01:16 PM   #2290
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Originally Posted by PureEvil95 View Post
Completely fresh build. Kept the old truck as a backup. Old truck had the castle 1410 motor and mamba max pro. After switching to tekin in my 1/10 buggies, I went to the RX8 setup here. The castle served me well, but this is sooooo much smoother.






Thanks,

Russ
I believe your esc fan is upside down. Flip it over. I did the same thing and was informed here.
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Old 03-20-2013, 01:35 PM   #2291
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Originally Posted by agarabaghi View Post
You running sensored now on the RX8? That could be the reason you feel it is smoother. the 1410 isnt and is a torque monster. Sensored vs sensoreless is like comparing apples to oranges.
Thats what I imagined. I run a pretty small tight and technical track so the 1410 had plenty of power, but lacked throttle response.

Thanks for the tip on the servo Hacker! I just realized I did that by mistake.

bigbeej- I always believe in forcing hot air on my esc. Keeps it from freezing in Chicago weather! I will check flow. thanks for headsup!

Russ
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Old 03-20-2013, 01:42 PM   #2292
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Originally Posted by PureEvil95 View Post
Thats what I imagined. I run a pretty small tight and technical track so the 1410 had plenty of power, but lacked throttle response.

Thanks for the tip on the servo Hacker! I just realized I did that by mistake.

bigbeej- I always believe in forcing hot air on my esc. Keeps it from freezing in Chicago weather! I will check flow. thanks for headsup!

Russ
Randy Pike was the one who told me. I figure he knows a decent amount about Tekin.
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Old 03-20-2013, 03:23 PM   #2293
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Bought some shock bottom caps from the lhs. Still had the same problem with caps not wanting to tighten down all the way! Wanted to bind just like the ones in the kit. At this point I think maybe the shock threads are to blame.
Still as everyone has told you...its the bottoms, they had some shrinkage during the mold process and the only reason people are finding the 1.0 ones and they fitting as they are old stock and not the new released version.

I got them on with a socket and then did the finally tightening with just regular household pliers and grabbed where the socket would fit on the bottoms and it worked fine with alittle patients and effort OR heat them with a hair dryer or heat gun but that will also make them soft so you'll still have to be careful and patient

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Originally Posted by RC-Rick View Post
I did notice a change to the rebound setting however. I set them last night (just as Dustin explains in his youtube vid) and this morning they are already off (more rebound)? and there appears to be some negative rebound when fully extended. The temp is relatively the same and the cap and bleed screw are tight.

So my questions are: Is this expected? Is it recommended they be checked before a race in the pits? Thanks again!!!
u need to pump the shock up some before comparing as the air/fluid need to mix for it to be proper

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I believe your esc fan is upside down. Flip it over. I did the same thing and was informed here.
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Randy Pike was the one who told me. I figure he knows a decent amount about Tekin.
Ya, they say if you see the sticker its up side down...as you want to pull the air off it and an ESC cant be too cold
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Old 03-20-2013, 04:57 PM   #2294
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Emulsion shocks have air in them so it is a good idea to exercise the shocks a few times before setting ride height and rebound will be effected by tempurature. Top racers are always checking ride height and making fine adjustments before a run. This is something that is easy to do and often overlooked and can have a dramatic effect on the handling of your car.
Is there a page or video on how to setup emulsion shocks anywhere? Im finishing up my 2.0 build tonight was wondering how to do this. I watched a video of a guy setting up the shocks on a 22 buggy and he cut out the top of the bladders, is it just that simple?
I run mostly on a loose outdoor track with pretty good sized jumps and don't want the shocks to constantly bleed out of the caps, and am a little afraid that is what will happen
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Old 03-20-2013, 05:05 PM   #2295
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How is everyone venting their bodies? I ususally make about 7 holes through the windshield in the front, and some exit holes in the back. Is this recommended with the 2.0?
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