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Old 03-18-2013, 08:09 PM   #2191
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as ive said before Ryan will let us know when the new shock bottom caps are out according to HH as they have not released/received the new ones yet so if you get caps they will not be the new ones unless you can get the 1.0 bottoms as i think someone said they will work also unless that is also the same press that made these to where they are all fudged up
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:17 PM   #2192
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Originally Posted by agarabaghi View Post
Same but I picked up a pack from the lhs and they sure didnt go on very easy either ... Went on a bit better but not exactly easy������
i used a cap from a losi scte 1.0 and it screwed right on with no problem.
il wait on the new ones to come in.
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:20 PM   #2193
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OK.... what helped me is ( yes) you need to turn the spring adj screw (Left) to tighten the spring. So go (counter clock wise )and it will start to spring back. To locate it turn the TX upside down. Hope this helps!
Yesss!!!!That did it!!!Was told I had to replace it.Raced it like that Sat nite LOL Back to the regular 2,0 programming!!THANKS!!!!!!
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:26 PM   #2194
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I figured the shock plastic part (losb2904) would be the 1.0 caps as they don't come with the HA balls for the shock ends?
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:27 PM   #2195
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Went together excellent.
I did not like how long the servo wire ended up being, so I shortened it.
My excess RX8 wiring is folded and heat shrink ed under the servo.
The excess transponder wiring is coiled under the servo.
My glitch buster wire was the perfect length, also routed under the servo and out the rear.
I had a 9" sensor wire, and it is barely long enough. I would have liked a slightly longer sensor wire, but it works.
I eliminated the ESC switch. I did not like having it located right behind the front tire, with no protection.
So, what do you think?
Nice, I'm about to go to my LHS tomorrow to do some more soldering and then come home and give it a wire tuck lol, one point of advice I'd give you is your sensor wire I'd zip tie it or something cause I did the same thing just had it hanging and it got caught on the spur gear but that was my stock wire that came w/ my tekin motor I'm getting a long one tomorrow
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:32 PM   #2196
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I helped out two new scte 2.0 owners with their newly built trucks today and was able to get the 2.0 bottom shock caps screwed on all the way quite easily using the heat gun tip and a nice set of wide nose pliers. So don't be afraid to heat them up!
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:36 PM   #2197
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I saw the setup on the first page says 2 hole 55 pistons from the 22. So I'm assuming the 2 hole AE pistons we use for the 22 will also work?? Do I need to modify the piston at all to work? What size holes are on the 55 pistons?
I think I found some blank pistons that will work if I drill 2 1.3mm holes in them.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...k-Piston-Set-2
Let me know what you guys think.
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:54 PM   #2198
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Finished painting my body... Not very good at it ha...

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Old 03-18-2013, 08:59 PM   #2199
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I said I would take your word on it!!!!You have given me what I will take as the truth.I am sorry if my words did not sit well with you even after I said ,,,(I would take Your Word.) My intention is to get a response or in your case a reaction ,hoping to hear yes the parts are gonna be available on this or that date ,not to accuse, Cheers!!Have Fun!!!

Oh Man thanks ,Gonna mess with it now.Been asking every where and no body really knows LOL Thanks again!!Prolly should find the manual too!!LOL
Manual: http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...000_Manual.pdf

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I think I found some blank pistons that will work if I drill 2 1.3mm holes in them.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...k-Piston-Set-2
Let me know what you guys think.
Sure those should work but now you need to find a 1.3mm drill bit. Getting some #55 pistons and gluing two holes is probably as cheap and easy. Just my opinion.
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Old 03-18-2013, 09:03 PM   #2200
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Sure those should work but now you need to find a 1.3mm drill bit. Getting some #55 pistons and gluing two holes is probably as cheap and easy. Just my opinion.
except they are on back order through HH and ive been waiting for 2+ weeks since my LHS ordered them and still waiting so i just did the stock pistons and will replace the lower caps and pistons at the same time
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Old 03-18-2013, 09:15 PM   #2201
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Anybody tried These yet? Looks and sounds cool in the video. There was something like this with flappers that opened on the return stroke to let the shock move a little quicker on rebound a few years ago if i remember...
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Old 03-18-2013, 09:15 PM   #2202
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except they are on back order through HH and ive been waiting for 2+ weeks since my LHS ordered them and still waiting so i just did the stock pistons and will replace the lower caps and pistons at the same time
You can glue two holes on the stock pistons and drill those if you are going the drilling route.
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Old 03-18-2013, 09:19 PM   #2203
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Are the dimples on the pre cut body that comes with the scte 2.0 kit in the right spot for the tower body mounts?
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Old 03-18-2013, 09:23 PM   #2204
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Sure those should work but now you need to find a 1.3mm drill bit. Getting some #55 pistons and gluing two holes is probably as cheap and easy. Just my opinion.[/QUOTE]

I have issues with the glue coming out. I have a set of drill bits just have to find out what size drill bit is close to 55 1.3 hole. Why doesn't TLR make blank pistons since it seems like most of the pros are modifying the 4 hole pistons anyway?? Seems like an easy moneymaker to me. Thanks for your response Casper.
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Old 03-18-2013, 09:32 PM   #2205
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Kits built! S6040 servo's in. Still need ESC/Motor. Over all nice kit. I do need new lower shock caps cause I mauled them in frustration. I also ran into the weak diff screws and I had a brand new spring steel 1/16 driver bought just for the occasion. I did get the rear built w/the HPI443 screws and hope TLR replaces thier kit screws w/these.
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