XRated SCT

What's a replacement ring gear I could get for my 2.0

jmc5313

Bag B...oring that goes between washer and diff case for the out drive...

Grandturk

iTrader: (5)

http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...cs&pn=losb3572

jmc5313

Bag d has eight of em...am i supposed to rob these?

jmc5313

Dumba$$.... clear rubber o rings are hard to spot for dummies!!!

XRated SCT

Is it better to run the stock plastic spur or is that 1 from stormer better to buy

agarabaghi

iTrader: (25)

plastic should be fine. just get a good mesh

XRated SCT

That's the thing the track I run on isn't an official track it's a homemade one, nice but it's loose dirt has more of the realistic feel to it and yesterday a rock or pebble put a dent in my spur through every tooth lol but my rr pinion is perfectly fine

agarabaghi

iTrader: (25)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-Racing-L...90834485572%26

XRated SCT

thanks I'll probably pick up that 1

Showtime90

iTrader: (3)

So i have a question for Ryan or Casper i have had my 2.0 for a week now and i got one night of club racing on it already, but i am seeing a lot of aluminum servo horns on here and i was wondering your opinions on these? Is the stock setup that comes with the truck reliable or is a aluminum horn just a better option? I was always told that you can run aluminum horns if the saver is plastic but if the saver is aluminum to stick with plastic horns, this truck kind of has a combo of both so any input would be great. Thanks

hacker07

iTrader: (13)

I run a metal gear servo, run my servo saver tight, and a metal horn...BUT, if my servo fails, then I will put a new one in. I havent had a servo fail in this struck since running the spektrum 6040. Now, that being said, I do this to get the most precise steering possible with a great amount of disregard to the servo. What I tell most people is run a metal gear servo, run the aluminum servo horn, tighten the servo saver and then back it off 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn just as the build tips say. The plastic horns hold up well that we make as we have the two different plastics in them. Over time, and heat cycles, they can get a little give to them and thats when its needed to change them.

RC-Rick

So last week I ended up cancelling my conversion parts order as I figured if I'm gonna have to wait, then I should at least see what the prices will be at my LHS and online. This weekend I went to my LHS to see what they knew and there it was all by its lonesome, begging to find a home , a SCTE 2.0 kit. Needless to say I broke down and bought the kit. I already have almost all of the hopups that I was working on for my 1.0, and will now add to my 2.0 as backups. I tried gluing the 55 pistons and think the smaller aluminum 4-40 nuts work better in case the glue cap is to large. I had to clear off and apply a new glue cap on a couple of holes after I tightened down the steel lock nut; the aluminum lock nut has a smaller contact patch on the piston. I'm also going to try the M2C Racing pistons as well. I'm not sure what weight oil to try, so any input on that is appreciated (SoCal indoor; SDRC). I'm leaning towards 27.5 up front and 30 in the rear.

jmc5313

Hacker or casper...I am assembling the front diff when i bolt the case halves together i get a tight spot when i rotate the pinion...when its totally loose no tight spot..when half tight it is a slight tight spot...any suggestions....

XRated SCT

I'm running the spek. 6040 as well and I picked up a 23t aluminum arm for it but it doesn't fit, what saver and arm are you running