R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

Like Tree4Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-16-2013, 02:13 PM   #2041
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: wi
Posts: 560
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to robby26wi Send a message via Yahoo to robby26wi
Default

coverting a 1.0 this coming week...have all the parts on the way.Whats the concensus on rpm arms and ti screw kit????
robby26wi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2013, 02:15 PM   #2042
Tech Apprentice
 
Weaves1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Madison WI
Posts: 85
Default Front bumper

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roken View Post
If your screw heads are not flush with the chassis it could simply be that the parts are not seated correctly. I noticed this with the front trans assembly. I had the screws flush but as I kept assembling I noticed that the front screw heads pooked out more and more. The problem is the tounge on the front bumper, it actually raises the trans up as you slide it in. The plastic diff housing should be seated flush with the kick up of the chassis and the section that goes through the chassis should be flush with the bottom of the chassis. I had to grind the thickness and sides of the bumper tounge to finally get the front diff assembly to fit properly. I mean I had to remove a lot of material, I bet I took 5 degrees of kick up out of the thing.

You are right about that bumper! Thanks for pointing that out
__________________
Karl W
Weaves1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2013, 04:08 PM   #2043
Tech Elite
 
Blitzrockey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: B.C Canada
Posts: 2,181
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

Is the stock setup running full droop?
Blitzrockey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2013, 04:23 PM   #2044
Tech Master
 
TCCustoms's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: South Central Michigan
Posts: 1,512
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BmainStar View Post
The small screws for the diff are a bit of a long job to thread in ,I am assuming people are just rushing the screws in and causing the tip of the tool to wander.Slow down and take your time on those screws guys.
Also go spend 26 bucks on the MIP tools(2 ea) that are needed for the shock cap bleeders and the diff screws and You will never(going slow and takin yer time)
strip a screw..
Or buy the Losi 8 in 1 tool

Quote:
Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK View Post
i don't know of anyone who bought the HD outdrives for the weight reduction. I, and everyone i know bought them because the stockers were soft as butter and showed wear after 5 packs.
Yes, some guys bought the 1.0 and would buy the HD outdrives and the Lunsford rod ends and other stuff and rememeber them weighing everything and showing the comparison pics of the weight so i kno some did buy for that reason

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blitzrockey View Post
Is the box stock setup good for medium sized outdoor track with some bigger jumps? Like the old scte run full droop as well?
Thanks!
Yes, they said the box stock set-up is good for both indoor and out and then jsut tune for either to your liking as its just a great starting spot to get everyone going

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blitzrockey View Post
Is the stock setup running full droop?
Yup
__________________
1/10 Traxxas Summit Blue
Axial AX10 Scorpion * Viper VSC 240/55t combo * Hitec HS-7954SH
TCCustoms is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2013, 04:56 PM   #2045
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 296
Default

Can someone explain to me how to adjust the sway bars properly? I assembled the front end and pushed the sway bar all the way back into the gear box slot, but how far should the wire go into the linkage from the a-arm and how tight are the set screws holding the bar to gear box? Also just an FYI if you look under your front gear box with a-arms on using the stock set up look to see if your arms are hitting the gear box. The part of the arm with the droop screw is hitting the gear box on mine where the bottom screws hold the box together. Doing a little dremeling.
Whitey_Wangster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2013, 06:10 PM   #2046
Tech Addict
 
SixFeetDeep's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Sparks, Nevada
Posts: 738
Trader Rating: 42 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by yz167 View Post
Sixfeetdeep,

If you loved the 1.0 mip i would say just buy it. Keep in mind diff and tire setups will make a big difference not to mention camber/caster and suspension spring, piston, and shock weight. Since you have the fastest recorded lap at your track I'm sure you already know all of that.

I'm super pumped about the 2.0, going back to the awesome build now
I do totally understand this. Thats why I dont judge the truck based on that one testing. I was just giving my initial comparison thoughts. Best of luck to you with your truck. I still sincerely think it will be a deadly animal once properly set up!!

Just after driving the two that I mentioned in my previous post, it would be a hard decision to make (weather or not to buy someone old 1.0 that has the MIP conversion, or the new 2.0).

Good luck!! And I can't wait to read other drivers reviews on this truck in the future!
__________________
Sponsors: RadioPost (www.RadioPost.com); Six Feet Deep Clothing (www.SFDclothing.com)

Current Cars: Team Durango DESC410V2; Team Associated Factory Team B4.2; Team Associated Factory Team B44.2; Team Associated RC8B; Team Associated RC8T.
SixFeetDeep is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2013, 07:18 PM   #2047
Tech Master
 
Dos Andos's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 1,569
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by robby26wi View Post
coverting a 1.0 this coming week...have all the parts on the way.Whats the concensus on rpm arms and ti screw kit????
I bought the TI screw kit for the 1.0 and caused more trouble than its worth... Screws constantly stripping the heads out. You'll save almost as much weight with TI turnbuckles and its cheaper...
__________________
"Andy T"
www.adelaiderc.com.au - Team Driver
[email protected]
www.modelflight.com.au
*ARCR* member
Dos Andos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2013, 07:35 PM   #2048
Tech Elite
 
Blitzrockey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: B.C Canada
Posts: 2,181
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

Is there really any need to get different tuning springs or do the stock ones pretty much work eveywhere?
Blitzrockey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2013, 07:43 PM   #2049
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: PA
Posts: 132
Default

:Picked up my kit. Won't have time to build it until next week. Just gave it a good look over. The directions seem to be exactly like the 8ight/8ight-t build. I've got the scte 1.0 and the quality of the diff. gears even looks much more refined. Had that appart enough times, I think this thing should go together in my sleep! Lol.
arrtay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2013, 08:12 PM   #2050
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: I race at Comp Rc in OKC
Posts: 2,715
Trader Rating: 60 (100%+)
Default

ok i got my 2. 0 il start the buiold tomorrow. been readin all post and little trouble spots. i hope it goes smooth.
__________________
it worked before you crashed it and broke it.
Graphite07 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2013, 08:14 PM   #2051
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: I race at Comp Rc in OKC
Posts: 2,715
Trader Rating: 60 (100%+)
Default

here are the pictures and i got a new ESC and 5 MM shaft motor for it.
Attached Thumbnails
Official TLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread-sam_5929.jpg   Official TLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread-sam_5930.jpg   Official TLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread-sam_5931.jpg  
__________________
it worked before you crashed it and broke it.
Graphite07 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2013, 08:24 PM   #2052
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 13
Default

Finished my kit last night and raced it today. I really really liked it. I had a pretty much stock 1.0 other than I had a pro4 4600 on it and it was a big jump for me going to the 2.0. The truck felt really well balanced for the most part.

As far as the build goes I had some of the known issues like the bottoms of the shock caps being really really difficult to put on, stripped the first diff screw I tried but no issues with the after that. The main problem I had was when tightening the first 4 screws for the front diff case I didn't crank on them at all but I guess it was too tight and the ring gear was slightly rubbing in one area.....thought it just needed breaking in but I took the front end back apart to try and figure out the issue before running and all I had to do was loosen em up. If you're using a longer servo arm be aware of where your electronics run from your esc. Learned a tonnnnnnn building this kit and am no longer threatened to take it apart and change things!

Wanted to post a pic of it but won't let me post pics....
BenM08 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2013, 08:26 PM   #2053
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 13
Default

Here she is in all er glory :-)
BenM08 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2013, 08:28 PM   #2054
Tech Adept
 
stvnmccc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: MA
Posts: 140
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Took the 2.0 out to the track today. This truck did everything well. I am super happy with my purchase.
stvnmccc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2013, 08:30 PM   #2055
Tech Prophet
 
Casper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Orange, Ca
Posts: 17,710
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlCrocco View Post
Well, everyone removed part of the rear bumper, mudflaps, and nerf bars, but the 2.0 come with those.....


At least give me the option to remove it instead of making me buy a box or a cowl.
The nerf bars were redesigned and they hit the body higher so they work much better. We are still cutting the rear bumper though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blitzrockey View Post
Is the box stock setup good for medium sized outdoor track with some bigger jumps? Like the old scte run full droop as well?
Thanks!
Yes we have run the kit setup in many conditions and it works well. It will not be perfect for everyone and every condition but we feel confident it should put you in the right ball park for tweaking.

Quote:
Originally Posted by -WHEELMAN- View Post
The motor mount is now made of a higher strength aluminum (7075 I think).

I think its the m2.6 screws (diff screws) people are having issues with not the 5/40.

Great!! I think that is where it is the best!!
Yes motor mount is now 7075 alum for increased strenght.

A good 1/16 bit is important as the screw holes are tight and they go deep in the holes so cutting the threads can be a little hard but I use my MIP speed tip and my hitachi drill and have built almost 10 2.0 kit diffs so far and not had a single issue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CanadianNascar View Post
Do the lower shock caps screw on all the way to bottom out on the shoulder of the shock body ?
I didn't want to thread them down, seemed to me like they were made to accomadate a shock boot ?



Also the front shocks at the top seem to loosely mount on the post.


A few things I noticed, instructions are basically pictures only, some screws could have used a larger allen wrench, lower shock caps,(must be designed for boots) cvd's tiny pins, rear diff out puts have plastic insert thingys PITA, gold nuts, battery size adjustment not quick change, front top plate needs the spacer.
The shocks are nice quality, & diffs went together just fine. The quality of the screws could have been better, comes with grease, loctite, fluids & tools needed.
Yes they are supposed to go all the way to the bottom of the body. There was an issue with the lower caps and Horizon will send you out new ones if you could not get the kit ones on. The issue was addressed but not until after the kits were shipped. Check out this tip.

http://losiracing.blogspot.com/2013/...uild-tips.html

The shocks should be a little loose on the bushings so the shocks don't bind as they rotate as the suspension moves.

Quote:
Originally Posted by robby26wi View Post
coverting a 1.0 this coming week...have all the parts on the way.Whats the concensus on rpm arms and ti screw kit????
RPM arms no. The kit ones are way strong and the RPM ones are too flexible IMO. Titanium screw kit saves weight if you want to spend the money.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitey_Wangster View Post
Can someone explain to me how to adjust the sway bars properly? I assembled the front end and pushed the sway bar all the way back into the gear box slot, but how far should the wire go into the linkage from the a-arm and how tight are the set screws holding the bar to gear box? Also just an FYI if you look under your front gear box with a-arms on using the stock set up look to see if your arms are hitting the gear box. The part of the arm with the droop screw is hitting the gear box on mine where the bottom screws hold the box together. Doing a little dremeling.
For me I had the car on the table without the shocks installed. (so arms level) and adjusted the sway bars so the vertical. The wire will not go through the pivot all the way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blitzrockey View Post
Is there really any need to get different tuning springs or do the stock ones pretty much work eveywhere?
Stock springs work well but it would not hurt to have others for tuning for other tracks.
__________________
TLR/Losi Team Driver
TLR/Losi | Tekin | DE Racing | Spektrum | Exotek | JBRL | Kolor Koncepts | OC/RC |Sticky Kicks | Imagine It Graphics | Casper-RC.com
TLR 22 4.0 SR, TLR 22SCT 3.0, TLR 22-4 2.0, TLR Ten-SCTE 3.0, Spektrum DX6R

WWW.CASPER-RC.COM TLR and Tekin setups
Casper is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:54 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net