TLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread
#2041
coverting a 1.0 this coming week...have all the parts on the way.Whats the concensus on rpm arms and ti screw kit????
#2042
Front bumper
If your screw heads are not flush with the chassis it could simply be that the parts are not seated correctly. I noticed this with the front trans assembly. I had the screws flush but as I kept assembling I noticed that the front screw heads pooked out more and more. The problem is the tounge on the front bumper, it actually raises the trans up as you slide it in. The plastic diff housing should be seated flush with the kick up of the chassis and the section that goes through the chassis should be flush with the bottom of the chassis. I had to grind the thickness and sides of the bumper tounge to finally get the front diff assembly to fit properly. I mean I had to remove a lot of material, I bet I took 5 degrees of kick up out of the thing.
You are right about that bumper! Thanks for pointing that out
#2044
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
The small screws for the diff are a bit of a long job to thread in ,I am assuming people are just rushing the screws in and causing the tip of the tool to wander.Slow down and take your time on those screws guys.
Also go spend 26 bucks on the MIP tools(2 ea) that are needed for the shock cap bleeders and the diff screws and You will never(going slow and takin yer time)
strip a screw..
Also go spend 26 bucks on the MIP tools(2 ea) that are needed for the shock cap bleeders and the diff screws and You will never(going slow and takin yer time)
strip a screw..
Yup
#2045
Tech Regular
Can someone explain to me how to adjust the sway bars properly? I assembled the front end and pushed the sway bar all the way back into the gear box slot, but how far should the wire go into the linkage from the a-arm and how tight are the set screws holding the bar to gear box? Also just an FYI if you look under your front gear box with a-arms on using the stock set up look to see if your arms are hitting the gear box. The part of the arm with the droop screw is hitting the gear box on mine where the bottom screws hold the box together. Doing a little dremeling.
#2046
Tech Addict
iTrader: (42)
Sixfeetdeep,
If you loved the 1.0 mip i would say just buy it. Keep in mind diff and tire setups will make a big difference not to mention camber/caster and suspension spring, piston, and shock weight. Since you have the fastest recorded lap at your track I'm sure you already know all of that.
I'm super pumped about the 2.0, going back to the awesome build now
If you loved the 1.0 mip i would say just buy it. Keep in mind diff and tire setups will make a big difference not to mention camber/caster and suspension spring, piston, and shock weight. Since you have the fastest recorded lap at your track I'm sure you already know all of that.
I'm super pumped about the 2.0, going back to the awesome build now
Just after driving the two that I mentioned in my previous post, it would be a hard decision to make (weather or not to buy someone old 1.0 that has the MIP conversion, or the new 2.0).
Good luck!! And I can't wait to read other drivers reviews on this truck in the future!
#2049
Tech Adept
:Picked up my kit. Won't have time to build it until next week. Just gave it a good look over. The directions seem to be exactly like the 8ight/8ight-t build. I've got the scte 1.0 and the quality of the diff. gears even looks much more refined. Had that appart enough times, I think this thing should go together in my sleep! Lol.
#2052
Tech Rookie
Finished my kit last night and raced it today. I really really liked it. I had a pretty much stock 1.0 other than I had a pro4 4600 on it and it was a big jump for me going to the 2.0. The truck felt really well balanced for the most part.
As far as the build goes I had some of the known issues like the bottoms of the shock caps being really really difficult to put on, stripped the first diff screw I tried but no issues with the after that. The main problem I had was when tightening the first 4 screws for the front diff case I didn't crank on them at all but I guess it was too tight and the ring gear was slightly rubbing in one area.....thought it just needed breaking in but I took the front end back apart to try and figure out the issue before running and all I had to do was loosen em up. If you're using a longer servo arm be aware of where your electronics run from your esc. Learned a tonnnnnnn building this kit and am no longer threatened to take it apart and change things!
Wanted to post a pic of it but won't let me post pics....
As far as the build goes I had some of the known issues like the bottoms of the shock caps being really really difficult to put on, stripped the first diff screw I tried but no issues with the after that. The main problem I had was when tightening the first 4 screws for the front diff case I didn't crank on them at all but I guess it was too tight and the ring gear was slightly rubbing in one area.....thought it just needed breaking in but I took the front end back apart to try and figure out the issue before running and all I had to do was loosen em up. If you're using a longer servo arm be aware of where your electronics run from your esc. Learned a tonnnnnnn building this kit and am no longer threatened to take it apart and change things!
Wanted to post a pic of it but won't let me post pics....
#2053
Tech Rookie
Here she is in all er glory :-)
#2054
Took the 2.0 out to the track today. This truck did everything well. I am super happy with my purchase.
#2055
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (34)
A good 1/16 bit is important as the screw holes are tight and they go deep in the holes so cutting the threads can be a little hard but I use my MIP speed tip and my hitachi drill and have built almost 10 2.0 kit diffs so far and not had a single issue.
Do the lower shock caps screw on all the way to bottom out on the shoulder of the shock body ?
I didn't want to thread them down, seemed to me like they were made to accomadate a shock boot ?
Also the front shocks at the top seem to loosely mount on the post.
A few things I noticed, instructions are basically pictures only, some screws could have used a larger allen wrench, lower shock caps,(must be designed for boots) cvd's tiny pins, rear diff out puts have plastic insert thingys PITA, gold nuts, battery size adjustment not quick change, front top plate needs the spacer.
The shocks are nice quality, & diffs went together just fine. The quality of the screws could have been better, comes with grease, loctite, fluids & tools needed.
I didn't want to thread them down, seemed to me like they were made to accomadate a shock boot ?
Also the front shocks at the top seem to loosely mount on the post.
A few things I noticed, instructions are basically pictures only, some screws could have used a larger allen wrench, lower shock caps,(must be designed for boots) cvd's tiny pins, rear diff out puts have plastic insert thingys PITA, gold nuts, battery size adjustment not quick change, front top plate needs the spacer.
The shocks are nice quality, & diffs went together just fine. The quality of the screws could have been better, comes with grease, loctite, fluids & tools needed.
http://losiracing.blogspot.com/2013/...uild-tips.html
The shocks should be a little loose on the bushings so the shocks don't bind as they rotate as the suspension moves.
Can someone explain to me how to adjust the sway bars properly? I assembled the front end and pushed the sway bar all the way back into the gear box slot, but how far should the wire go into the linkage from the a-arm and how tight are the set screws holding the bar to gear box? Also just an FYI if you look under your front gear box with a-arms on using the stock set up look to see if your arms are hitting the gear box. The part of the arm with the droop screw is hitting the gear box on mine where the bottom screws hold the box together. Doing a little dremeling.
Stock springs work well but it would not hurt to have others for tuning for other tracks.