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Old 03-13-2013, 05:33 AM   #1861
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They ARE SHOWING IN STOCK on Fast Serve. Hopefully we will get our tracking numbers!
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Old 03-13-2013, 05:38 AM   #1862
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guess im a bit late to the party...
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Old 03-13-2013, 05:43 AM   #1863
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first race after building my 2.0 was last night ..took the TQ but had to settle for 3rd after my switch shut off on lap 3..came from a lap behind to get back to third and missed second by a few seconds was all..truck is deff faster than the 1.0 it jumps way better
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Old 03-13-2013, 05:48 AM   #1864
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first race after building my 2.0 was last night ..took the TQ but had to settle for 3rd after my switch shut off on lap 3..came from a lap behind to get back to third and missed second by a few seconds was all..truck is deff faster than the 1.0 it jumps way better
Congrats and thats awesome to hear! Too bad about the switch!
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Old 03-13-2013, 06:19 AM   #1865
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Congrats and thats awesome to hear! Too bad about the switch!
i had not been on that layout since 3 weeks ago and in comparison to my 1.0 i picked up about half a second with the new truck..had an outstanding 10 lap average..
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Old 03-13-2013, 06:33 AM   #1866
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Wow, clean build. What did you do to connect your wires to the Xerun ? Looks like you put a screw through the connector-points or something ?

Edit: Never mind, found 'em : http://www.rc-race-and-drift-japan.c...oducts_id=3970
yea, that's the brand but those aren't for the motor...its a 3 pack and just make sure you read closely so it says its for your motor...but desolder old ears off and solder the base in place and your done. just screw the bolt in to the wires and this holds them in place and easy for a quick swap
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Old 03-13-2013, 06:38 AM   #1867
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Hello guys,

Sorry if this has been asked, I don't want to read the 125 pages...
I have a SCTE 1.0 and would like a bit more traction and rear weigth, so I'm interested with the 2.0 layout.

To go from 1.0 to 2.0, is it enough to change chassis, battery "box", servo mount, torque rod and mudguards?

I understand the shock tower are new as well, made from CF, but I do have brand new aluminium reinforced ones on my 1.0, I guess that could do the work as well isn't it?

Last question : as I'm not racing, I run with 3S for more autonomy and less heat, I guess the battery tray of the 2.0 is not good for 3S as it looks perfect fit for 2S is that correct?

Thanks in advance for your feedbacks.
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:03 AM   #1868
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Originally Posted by Djioul View Post
Hello guys,

Sorry if this has been asked, I don't want to read the 125 pages...
I have a SCTE 1.0 and would like a bit more traction and rear weigth, so I'm interested with the 2.0 layout.

To go from 1.0 to 2.0, is it enough to change chassis, battery "box", servo mount, torque rod and mudguards?

I understand the shock tower are new as well, made from CF, but I do have brand new aluminium reinforced ones on my 1.0, I guess that could do the work as well isn't it?

Last question : as I'm not racing, I run with 3S for more autonomy and less heat, I guess the battery tray of the 2.0 is not good for 3S as it looks perfect fit for 2S is that correct?

Thanks in advance for your feedbacks.
The 2.0 switch is worth it, when your talking multiple people claiming half a second quicker a lap. The 3s should fit as far as length just move one of the batteries holders out one hole and dremel the top strap out, thats what i did for my bigger 2s.
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:06 AM   #1869
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The 2.0 switch is worth it, when your talking multiple people claiming half a second quicker a lap. The 3s should fit as far as length just move one of the batteries holders out one hole and dremel the top strap out, thats what i did for my bigger 2s.
When you mean it's worth it you would recommend ordering new complete kit rather than the few udpates I laid out in my post?
The updates would cost me 150 compared to 400 a brand new kit, even if most of 1.0 could then become spare, that's however a lot of money...

Good to know for 3S anyway, thanks.
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:30 AM   #1870
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pygmy View Post
Wow, clean build. What did you do to connect your wires to the Xerun ? Looks like you put a screw through the connector-points or something ?

Edit: Never mind, found 'em : http://www.rc-race-and-drift-japan.c...oducts_id=3970
Quote:
Originally Posted by TCCustoms View Post
ok, got mine all done tonight and of course i come up from RC CAVE(basement) and the ground is covered with snow again......WTF?!?!!?!?

But here is a pic all done and wired up....sold the 2 sets of rims and rings on here so i just have the cheapy duratrax banditos for running on the roads out front on there for now

And here is a link to the build pics and everything so far...
http://s1227.beta.photobucket.com/us...0Pics/SCTE%202
Where did you bought those terminals? All I found was overseas. Looks good

I think someone mentioned that he dremel the inside to fit the sensor cable with the power cables
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:40 AM   #1871
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Djioul View Post
Hello guys,

Sorry if this has been asked, I don't want to read the 125 pages...
I have a SCTE 1.0 and would like a bit more traction and rear weigth, so I'm interested with the 2.0 layout.

To go from 1.0 to 2.0, is it enough to change chassis, battery "box", servo mount, torque rod and mudguards?

I understand the shock tower are new as well, made from CF, but I do have brand new aluminium reinforced ones on my 1.0, I guess that could do the work as well isn't it?

Last question : as I'm not racing, I run with 3S for more autonomy and less heat, I guess the battery tray of the 2.0 is not good for 3S as it looks perfect fit for 2S is that correct?

Thanks in advance for your feedbacks.
The only thing you wouldn't have is the new camber link holes they put in the SCTE2.0 rear shock tower .

TLR designed the battery hold down for 2s LiPo because that is what is allowed for the class by ROAR . I am sure you could fit a 3s with a little modding though ......3s might throw off the balance though depending on how heavy your motor/servo is ........
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:43 AM   #1872
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1-Yes, Those terminals are slick!
2-Are the big 6000+mah lipo's a must for this rig? What do u guys run for mah to keep a good balance?
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:44 AM   #1873
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This is the same weight as a 2s

http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...product_id=138
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:44 AM   #1874
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Djioul View Post
Hello guys,

Sorry if this has been asked, I don't want to read the 125 pages...
I have a SCTE 1.0 and would like a bit more traction and rear weigth, so I'm interested with the 2.0 layout.

To go from 1.0 to 2.0, is it enough to change chassis, battery "box", servo mount, torque rod and mudguards?

I understand the shock tower are new as well, made from CF, but I do have brand new aluminium reinforced ones on my 1.0, I guess that could do the work as well isn't it?

Last question : as I'm not racing, I run with 3S for more autonomy and less heat, I guess the battery tray of the 2.0 is not good for 3S as it looks perfect fit for 2S is that correct?

Thanks in advance for your feedbacks.
If your not racing i would not waste your money.
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:44 AM   #1875
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BashemSmashem View Post
The only thing you wouldn't have is the new camber link holes they put in the SCTE2.0 rear shock tower .

TLR designed the battery hold down for 2s LiPo because that is what is allowed for the class by ROAR . I am sure you could fit a 3s with a little modding though ......3s might throw off the balance though depending on how heavy your motor/servo is ........
Great news, and yes, I've spotted the extra holes on CF tower, but I like too much the nice aluminium ones.
And they will be perfect with the 2.0 chassis as well !

Thanks for the info, I'll go for this as soon as my LHS has the parts in stock.
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