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Old 01-30-2013, 12:53 PM   #166
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Truck looks awesome!!! How much lighter is it then the v1 with the tuning kit and chassis?
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Old 01-30-2013, 12:54 PM   #167
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Send it back!
The big nation wide sc showdown race is coming to my track weekend after next... I will need something!
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Old 01-30-2013, 12:54 PM   #168
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im glad they are doing it..

one thing i find funny.. is when i made comments about all this long ago.. people were always saying.. u dont "need" a TLR tuning kit.. u dont "need" hd balls.. u dont "need" light drive cups, Dont "need" lightweight hard chassis.. bla bla.. doesnt do anything for the truck.. bla bla..

and here we are.. year later.. its all in a kit..

Racers dont want to have to replace these parts that wear out so quick.. when they race almost every weekend..

again.. im glad TLR and the team are so in tune with the forums.. and see what the "racers" and other guys are saying.. and bringing it all to us..

I was seriously on the boat to jump ship.. or even convert a buggy over.. but not anymore..
Do you "need" those things? No. Truck worked great stock out of the box. Anyone that took one off the shelf and installed the battery will tell you that. Do all the hopup parts make the truck better. Some more then others and depends on your level of driver. Does a racer expect all this stuff in a TLR box and want the best they can get. Of course. This is the TLR version of the car and Ryan packed it full of all the hopups most of us would add to this car even if they weren't included.

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Ridley: Yea that makes sense thinking about i have used Metric screws though into non Metric holes before and its been fine .


Hacker: I get what your saying but to me if the 1st SCTE model was all Metric screws and the moldings it wouldnt be more expensive i dont think . Its easyier to have Metric screws more varietly thats all.
The first car was based off the Ten-T which was not intended to be raced in all honesty. It was based off shrinking the 8ight platform and they carreid over the 5-40 screws. Had the car been based off 4-40 screws we could probably build the whole thing with 3mm hardware but 5-40 screws a little bigger and 3mm hardware would not work. This is a culmination of a decision made 3 years ago or more prior to the big move to metric hardware and costs to much to convert.
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Old 01-30-2013, 12:56 PM   #169
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Originally Posted by ChanMan23 View Post
Truck looks awesome!!! How much lighter is it then the v1 with the tuning kit and chassis?
I don't know the weight of the old truck with chassis and tuning kit but the RTR was about 6.8lbs. My 2.0 weighs in at 6.2lbs ready to hit the track. (painted body, tires, battery etc). This is a little lighter then were my 1.0 was with lightend battery tray, titanium screw kit and other mods to take out weight.
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Old 01-30-2013, 12:59 PM   #170
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The big nation wide sc showdown race is coming to my track weekend after next... I will need something!
I'll send you mine!
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Old 01-30-2013, 01:01 PM   #171
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Here is a video Gary Katzer and I put together in case you are bored and I am sorry you have to look at my ugly face but its how it goes, haha...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGvbkc3srho&safe=active
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Old 01-30-2013, 01:03 PM   #172
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Yeah, I'm not buying that explanation.

If anything, it would be reversed, where the bind created overdrive in the rear would be offset by the added downforce of having a wing on a nitro buggy.
In all honesty, I am okay if you don't buy it. We have taken the time to test and develop this concepts, finding out what does and does not work for our vehicles. With this understanding of the engineering and extensive testing, we have the confidence in our findings to develop them into the vehicles we release. When people ask questions, all I can do is my best to explain why and how we end up at the design and geometry we have; but I cannot always convince everyone. Countless hours of design and testing by experienced, professional engineers, team drivers, and product developers go into each of our products including this one. Features like this do not just happen on accident and we don't put things in random places without thought or reason.

Sorry you cannot buy or believe my explanation, but it is the truth from our experience and expertise at TLR, and I wouldn't share a different opinion other than that.
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Old 01-30-2013, 01:08 PM   #173
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Do you "need" those things? No. Truck worked great stock out of the box. Anyone that took one off the shelf and installed the battery will tell you that. Do all the hopup parts make the truck better. Some more then others and depends on your level of driver. Does a racer expect all this stuff in a TLR box and want the best they can get. Of course. This is the TLR version of the car and Ryan packed it full of all the hopups most of us would add to this car even if they weren't included.



The first car was based off the Ten-T which was not intended to be raced in all honesty. It was based off shrinking the 8ight platform and they carreid over the 5-40 screws. Had the car been based off 4-40 screws we could probably build the whole thing with 3mm hardware but 5-40 screws a little bigger and 3mm hardware would not work. This is a culmination of a decision made 3 years ago or more prior to the big move to metric hardware and costs to much to convert.



Oh but its still a good racer in box stock form even if it wasnt meant as a racer its a great Club racer ! But yea i see how it would cost a lot again.

For sure all you really need is some Carbon towers , Longer rear brace , most important is buying the new diffs . But the box stocker for the 1.0 SCTE is fine from the box to the track a lot of the upgrated stuff isnt really a must have i agree
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Old 01-30-2013, 01:08 PM   #174
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Can we get a complete list of parts with part numbers on the first page to upgrade the 1.0 to a 2.0? Unfortunetly, I just ordered the 1.0. And maybe break them out by like core parts and optional parts. It would be greatly appreciated.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/webapp/w...pe=productgrid
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Old 01-30-2013, 01:11 PM   #175
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Here is a video Gary Katzer and I put together in case you are bored and I am sorry you have to look at my ugly face but its how it goes, haha...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGvbkc3srho&safe=active
Great video! Who was in the reflection trying to photo bomb your video production? My guess would be Goldsmith.
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Old 01-30-2013, 01:13 PM   #176
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Im curious whats the diffrence with the 2.0 TLR chassis and the 1.0 TLR chassis ? I have a eye on them 2.0 parts to put on my 1.0.

Nevermind lol the 2.0 TLR chassis looks like it moves the center diff toward the rear .
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Last edited by tc5 man; 01-30-2013 at 01:24 PM.
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Old 01-30-2013, 01:19 PM   #177
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Hold onto your aluminum rear hubs, guys. Looks like plastic hubs included in the kit.
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Old 01-30-2013, 01:24 PM   #178
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Where have you been runnin yours? The SCTE has been the only 4wd SC that can keep up with and tussle with buggies and truggies for 2 years. Maybe the Teckno can do it, too, but it certainly won't be the first.
I run mine in NE ohio. What i meant is i hope no durability is lost with the new one. the durability on mine is great except for recently ive been breaking the plastic shock caps. I probably need to upgrade to aluminium cause i dont have the big sc body protecting them anymore
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Old 01-30-2013, 01:25 PM   #179
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Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
In all honesty, I am okay if you don't buy it. We have taken the time to test and develop this concepts, finding out what does and does not work for our vehicles. With this understanding of the engineering and extensive testing, we have the confidence in our findings to develop them into the vehicles we release. When people ask questions, all I can do is my best to explain why and how we end up at the design and geometry we have; but I cannot always convince everyone. Countless hours of design and testing by experienced, professional engineers, team drivers, and product developers go into each of our products including this one. Features like this do not just happen on accident and we don't put things in random places without thought or reason.
Amazing how after all the countless hours of testing, that the exact right placement for the center diff was just flipping the driveshafts front to rear
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Old 01-30-2013, 01:28 PM   #180
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Hold onto your aluminum rear hubs, guys. Looks like plastic hubs included in the kit.
Yes kit comes with plastic rear hubs. My understanding is the plastic hubs are good unless you race in the cold where they can become brittle so.....
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