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Old 03-08-2013, 05:25 PM   #1621
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Originally Posted by slasn_48 View Post
If you have holes in the tire and use traction compound the foam will break down. I will will stick with holes in the rims. Has anyone who has got there kit run them yet? would love to here what you think so far.
yup... holes in tire when using traction compound=bad idea. your foams will break down in half the time. I used to always vent the tire when using CC foam along with most everyone else but always had the dead foam issue after 2 or 3 race days. After I stopped venting the tire I quickly figured out traction compounds effects on the CC foam. It seems to be much more severe on SC tires then buggy tires. I usually run on a indoor clay track so I dont have to really wash my tires, just a little more compound brushed on with a tooth brush and I'm good to go. On an outdoor track where I would actually have to use a wash bucket to clean the tires I would vent the tires and of course not use compound.
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Last edited by Derry; 03-08-2013 at 05:38 PM.
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:36 PM   #1622
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I dont remember who posted this issue besides myself but i think i figured out my problem with the diff...im a dumbass and didnt realize the gear actually SNAPS ON to the pin thats slid through the outdrive inside the diff so i will be tearing the front end down and this is pry my reason for feeling the gear mesh when turning the outdrives

Heads up to anyone else that didnt realize this....
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:38 PM   #1623
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Originally Posted by Derry View Post
yup... holes in tire when using traction compound=bad idea. your foams will break down in half the time. I used to always vent the tire when using CC foam along with most everyone else but always had the dead foam issue after 2 or 3 race days. After I stopped venting the tire I quickly figured out traction compounds effects on the CC foam. It seems to be much more severe on SC tires then buggy tires.
I have not noticed any detrimental effects with Green Dot, Blue Dot, Sticky Kicks Red or Buggy Grip (Kinwald) and Proline, AKA red and Panther yellow and orange foams. Many many race sessions with heavily treated tires. Foams OK
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:38 PM   #1624
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Do all 3 diffs. run the same screws??
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:40 PM   #1625
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Do all 3 diffs. run the same screws??
Yes. All three are identical except for the spur/rings and outdrives.
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:41 PM   #1626
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Do all 3 diffs. run the same screws??
Yes
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:41 PM   #1627
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Originally Posted by Grandturk View Post
I have not noticed any detrimental effects with Green Dot, Blue Dot, Sticky Kicks Red or Buggy Grip (Kinwald) and Proline, AKA red and Panther yellow and orange foams. Many many race sessions with heavily treated tires. Foams OK
Like the guy I quoted... I'm not the only one who has noticed it.
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:51 PM   #1628
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Like the guy I quoted... I'm not the only one who has noticed it.
Just curious what stuff you noticed it with.
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:51 PM   #1629
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We were trying to reward the shops that could support the customer the best. This whole program was customer based.
I can see your point but i know in my area it had done just the opposite the one shop within 50 miles that stocks losi parts, and you don't just get an well i can order that when you ask about a part. they are not on the hcp list.


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As I stated, we have made the choice to drop the HCP as it relates to TLR for now as the shops that should get these which are the tracks, cannot even get them. As I stated earlier, even the small shops can be part of this program if they order a certain percentage of product from us. So, if they are not part of it, that is their choice, not ours. So, talk to them. It is likely the disservice is elsewhere.
i know the few small shops i was in they don't have a pos (point of sale) system so unless they do 100k in horizon sales it isn't their choice.

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The small shop can be part of the program, the track, that is the primary issue with this program and TLR. If you choose to sell another product, that is your choice, certainly not our reasoning behind this one. I recall waiting for months to get the product I actually wanted from the store I chose to buy it from.
yeah i was one of the people waiting for the original ten-scte when it first came out but this is something completly diffrent EVERY ONE that ordered that kit got it at the same time
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:57 PM   #1630
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Just curious what stuff you noticed it with.
sticky fingers and green dot are the 2 I use the most.
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Old 03-08-2013, 06:01 PM   #1631
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sticky fingers and green dot are the 2 I use the most.
Thanks. I've got some fresh panthers to glue up for the short course showdown in a week. I'm going to see if I specifically notice any degradation. Nothing scientific of course.
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Old 03-08-2013, 06:05 PM   #1632
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Thanks. I've got some fresh panthers to glue up for the short course showdown in a week. I'm going to see if I specifically notice any degradation. Nothing scientific of course.
Yeah... Good luck at the showdown race! Funnest races I have ever attended. I made the A in both Mod 2w and 4w this year at the Tacoma WA stop. I was stoked... Scotty puts on a good show.
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:56 PM   #1633
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Might be a good idea to use a roll form tap to pre-thread the diffs. I wouldn't use a tap that cuts threads as it will just weaken the threads and lessen the amount of times you will be able to tear it down. I haven't built a kit in 21 years, and so far haven't had any issues. I still have the last kit I built btw "Kyosho Outlaw Rampage". I'm also not using any taps. I didn't even pre-thread the first diff, but I will the next 2.

Ryan you haven't commented on the counter sink issue with the chassis. This is a manufacturing flaw that should be addressed. Should new chassis's be sent out? NO!!! But might want to make this change now before the entire world thinks LOSI can't program or hire a company that can program a simple CNC drill/counter sink operation. Unless it was just a tool issue for so many runs before it was caught.

And just for grins I'm already working out in CAD/CAM a titanium shock tower for this kit along with a motor mount. For no other reason then I have large enough scrap Ti laying around the shop to do it and see the weight difference. Thought a chassis would be cool but just the stock it to expensive to even bother with it. No scraps that large laying around. I'm off to work on the 2.0 some more.

Last edited by Maglin; 03-08-2013 at 10:06 PM.
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Old 03-08-2013, 09:23 PM   #1634
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Might be a good idea to use a roll form tap to pre-thread the diffs. I wouldn't use a tap that cuts threads as it will just weaken the threads and lessen the amount of times you will be able to tear it down. I haven't built a kit in 21 years, and so far haven't had any issues. I still have the last kit I built btw "Kyosho Outlaw Rampage". I'm also not using any taps. I didn't even pre-thread the first diff, but I will the next 2.

Ryan you haven't commented on the counter sink issue with the chassis. This is a manufacturing flaw that should be addressed. Should new chassis's be sent out? NO!!! But might want to make this change now before the entire world thinks LOSI can't program or hire a company that can program a simple CNC drill/counter sink issue. Unless it was just a tool issue for so many runs before it was caught.

And just for grins I'm already working out in CAD/CAM a titanium shock tower for this kit along with a motor mount. For no other reason then I have large enough scrap Ti laying around the shop to do it and see the weight difference. Thought a chassis would be cool but just the stock it to expensive to even bother with it. No scraps that large laying around. I'm off to work on the 2.0 some more.
i don't think alot of people are going to have a 2.6mm tap laying around but you could always get a 2.6x10mm cap head screw and use that to prethread the holes the cap head screw will take a lot larger hex wrench so you won't strip it. i would only do that if you were worried about stripping the screws that are in the diff myself i have never had an issue and i have been running the ten-scte since it was first released
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Old 03-09-2013, 12:07 PM   #1635
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Finished my build yesterday overall very easy only issue was 1 stripped diff screw and a small burr on the steering post that kept the bearing from sliding on light sanding fixed it. I really like the new battery tray it is a huge improvement over the 1.0 and APE tray. Track test later today will post results.

SCTE 2.0 roller is 1.5oz lighter than my kingshead, TLR,ape tray 1.0 roller.
My 2.0 is 6.09# ready to race




I still need to clean up the wiring.

Last edited by hkrob; 03-09-2013 at 12:26 PM.
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