racer1812

iTrader: (31)

never been a fan of de-soldering wicks/braids or solder suckers. I prefer the "flick" method but that's another trick not recommended for the less skilled..

"factory" joints can be difficult to deal with, mainly because of the high silver content they're required to use. Additional flux really shines in these situations.

2canSAM

iTrader: (248)

I have probably used your flick method before
Thanks for the tip on using flux for desoldering. I have a dedicated desoldering iron, but did not try flux with it

HPI-Blitz 101

iTrader: (122)

I tend to scrape of the extra solder and flick it on the table or in the trash can..That's what the repair man at my LHS showed me too do.I if it wasn't for him I might still be spending $5 every time I needed a solder job

Aravan

iTrader: (3)

You guys convinced me to try some flux. What type is best? I looked around a bit and found a Kester 186 flux pen on Ebay for cheap, will that do?

HPI-Blitz 101

iTrader: (122)

+1 what flux is best?

asc6000

iTrader: (15)

There are liquids , pastes and even sticks but get the paste. The can I pic'd has been refilled several times from a bigass can I got at radio crack decades ago. One point that seems to have been missed by some is what flux does and when/how to use it. It's not for adding to your rosin core as you solder. Cpt and racer mentioned the proper uses. When doing a new connection a little dab on the ends of the wires and tabs... pretin... maybe another tiny dab of flux... then solder it up, the flux helps the solder "flow" you can see it.... it gets shiny and flows.... On connections that are already used you may not even need any solder, a dab of flux to get it to flow... done. Thats what I meant when I see people feeding a foot of solder into a joint they are doing it in hopes that the "rosin-core" flux will let it flow, well maybe not if your iron isn't so hot and there is a giant blob of solder already there soaking up what little heat your iron has. A couple tips, CLEAN, PRE-TIN, sorry about the yell, use flux to get stuff to "flow", if there is a nasty brown buildup and boiling flux and fumes... your'e using TOO MUCH... sorry, same as the solder deal.
I love soldering, it's easy and fun (after a billion times) the flick thing is funny, after a mass soldering episode people look at the floor by my bench and see all that solder...

racer1812

iTrader: (31)

A lot of good brands out there I'm sure. I use solder and flux from Miniatronics (post #2)

Kester is really good but man it STINKS...The stuff I got in a yellow can style container some 15 years ago anyway...Still have some because I can't stand the smell and don't use it.

Jpm1

iTrader: (8)

I use bakers fluid, just pour some into the cap and every time you lift your iron about to do a join dip the end in the fluid, dip the wire end in before tinning, use the tinned wire to dip in then transfer to your bullet connectors or motor tabs before tinning, once everything is tinned before you try to make the join, did your iron in the fluid again.

Using this method will make the soldering very fast and the very strong, remember if you use the bakers fluid on everything you won't need to heat joints for as long and this will save excessive heat transfer through your electronics.

I've never had a join unsolder using this method and the flux is around 6-10$ a bottle.

associatevalley

iTrader: (38)

So basically there is acid flux and non acid flux in several forms( liquid, paste, etc.). Any quality non acid flux should do the trick and paste is easiest to work with.

bigjayjay1

iTrader: (86)

Soldering is easy if you take the appropriate prep steps.

1. Have the right iron not the cheap radio Shack stuff.
2. Clean sponge, and clean iron that's was tinted.
3. Propr gig for holding components
4. Clean components surface area
5. Iron should be at the right temperature
6. Pre tin wire and connection
7. Don't over heat connections

Once done the connections should be shiny not dull. When soldering the solider should flow fast if you need to hold the iron for excessive time your overhearing area and opening the possibilities for a cold joint. Flux is a good option but if you have rosin grade 60/40 its not completely necessary if you know what your doing.

craigsfocus

iTrader: (6)

I don't use Flux when I use Kester 44. I also don't have to worry about my Soldering Iron not heating up enough so the solder doesn't flow properly because I own a Metcal Soldering Station. I get perfect joints all the time

mattnin

iTrader: (44)

Radio Shack 60/40 and flux works great. I'm probably the only one at the track using flux, but I've never had a cold solder joint, or ever had a solder joint fail on me during a race.

Flux can be used to clean your solder tip too and get it super shiny. At the end of the day, I like to wipe the crud off my heated iron on a wet sponge, then dip in flux, re-tin the spade, then shut off.

I use a Goot 40W solder iron. Gets plenty hot and been reliable for over 7 years. Only ever had to change tips once. Best $50 I've ever spent.

Kaw1000

iTrader: (7)

+1

associatevalley

iTrader: (38)

What is a "cold solder joint"?

nv529

iTrader: (53)

Anyone from the round cell Sub-C nicad/nimh era of build it yourself - matched batteries will tell you flux and good hot iron will make your life a lot easier.

I've been using this same model soldering iron for almost 15 years now (3rd one). no other iron in its cheap price range gets the job done as well.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Soldering-Iron