Tekno RC is proud to announce the newest addition to our stable of innovative RC vehicles – The SCT410 1/10th 4×4 Short Course Truck. The SCT410 shares many parts with the groundbreaking EB48 1/8th Electric Buggy, so you know it will be able to carve up the track and take a beating.
There are many new parts on the SCT to keep weight to a minimum, including new lighter arms, steering blocks, spindle carriers, rear hubs, and an all new lilghtweight drivetrain. Add some sturdy adjustable body mounts and a front/rear bumper system and you have the SCT that everyone has been waiting for – true 1/8th scale roots with 1/10th scale weight and agility.
Standard 12mm hex wheels will bolt right on (SCTE offset) and existing 7.4v SCT power systems will have no trouble pushing the SCT410 around the track. The SCT410 will be sold in race kit form.
4mm CNC 7075 aluminum black anodized chassis.
Super narrow layout – widest point is only 125mm (less than 5”) mudguard-to-mudguard.
Class leading front and rear clearance (short chassis overhang) provides better bump handling and jump landing.
Adjustable, lightweight body mounting system fits most popular SC bodies (Losi, AE, etc.).
Lightweight, extremely durable front and rear bumper system.
Integrated battery tray/mud guard, battery is sunken into chassis for a super low COG.
Integrated electronics tray/mud guard for easy removal of electronics.
Spacious, enclosed, easy access radio box with integrated transponder mount.
Adjustable chassis brace system for fine tuning flex with front, center, and rear braces.
2-piece CNC aluminum motor mount with precision dual clamping gear mesh adjustment.
Lightweight direct-to-diff mount design.
Uses standard MOD 1 pinion.
Differentials and Drivetrain:
3 fluid filled adjustable super lightweight diffs.
Newly redesigned precision diff gears with innovative cross-pin design for increased durability.
Less rotating mass = better acceleration.
Straight center driveline for maximum efficiency and reduced wear.
CV driveshafts with captured pins on all 4 wheels.
Standard 12mm hexes fits most popular SC wheels (SCTE offset).
16mm bore hard anodized shocks – Biggest-in-class!
4mm 7075 aluminum shock towers are standard.
Innovative conical piston design (not just tapered) provides varied compression and rebound rates.
Fully adjustable long travel suspension geometry maximizes stability and traction while providing superior cornering and on-power steering.
CNC aluminum threaded shock bodies.
4mm hardened steel polished shafts.
Triple guide design for true consistent shaft action.
Options for vented cap, emulsion, or standard shock configurations out of the box.
Optional springs and sway bars available.
Suspension and Steering:
Bulletproof suspension arms – thicker and stronger than the competition.
Adjustable length rear arms to suit any track condition.
Adjustable front arm sweep and angle to make the car more aggressive (swept forward), or easier to drive (swept back).
Front and rear arms can be used on either side = less parts in your toolbox.
‘Narrow pivot’ steering posts provide ‘0 bump’ geometry with almost 0 steering slop.
Adjustable hinge pin braces are standard (toe, anti-squat, kick-up, front arm sweep).
4mm inner, 3.5mm outer hinge pins, polished for smooth action.
Adjustable Ackerman and bump-steer (bump in, 0 bump, bump out).
Steering system is fully supported on precision ball bearings. No bushings here.
LCG rod ends and lightweight turnbuckles.
Front/rear sway bars are the same length = less parts in your toolbox.
Exceptional wear characteristics. Leave the slop and warping to the other guys.
Easily adjust anti-squat, rear toe, front arm angle, front arm sweep, roll center, toe, camber, wheelbase, rear arm length, Ackerman, bump steer, suspension geometry out of the box..
Extremely easy to work on with minimal screw count.
Shares many parts with your EB48 1/8th Electric Buggy = less parts in your toolbox.
All metric hex hardware.
100% Tekno RC Designed and Tested in Southern California.
Weight: ~3000g (6.6lb) out of the box RTR
Weigth: ~2590g (5.7lb) with optional parts and equipment
(RTR weight equipped w/ Tekin RX8, Pro4 motor, 300g battery, rx, etc)
Diff Ratio: F/R – 10/40t, Center – 44t
Battery tray dimensions: 50x148mm
Needed to complete:
2 channel radio/transmitter
ESC and Pro4 SCT motor
High torque steering servo
2s LiPo battery
SC tires, wheels (SCTE offset) & CA glue
SC body of your choice, paint for body
Hex tools (1.5, 2.0, 2.5mm), nut drivers (5.0, 5.5, 7.0mm), pliers, other tools
IMPORTANT INFORMATION AND UPDATES:
SERVO SAVER CENTERING
So we have looked into some of the servo saver inconsistencies and found a solution for the wandering. Please see attached image. The face highlighted in blue needs to be sanded down about 0.1mm. The flashing from the mold prevents the servo saver from seating 100%. After doing this and tightening the spring down, it will hold as intended.
We'll look into a fix for this in the future, but it requires a mold change so it won't be the fastest fix ever. What is outlined above works great though.
Can be found here
NERF BAR INSTALLATION
Quote from Shark413
I just wanted to point out one thing that is not mentioned in the manual (at least I don't think it is). The nerf bars look the same but they are not symmetrical and are actually two different sizes. I noticed this while playing around with the air guards. The side pods on the Tekno SCT410 are made just wide enough to contain the battery (left side) and servo/esc (right side). And the chassis is just wide enough to provide support for the battery and motor. Since the side pods are of different sizes (width) the nerf bars had to also be of different sizes so that the overall width is symmetrical. Just another example of great Tekno design, they could have made the chassis and side pods symmetrical but it would not have been an efficient use of space/materials and the balance would not be as good. Also the nerf bars have a taper, and the flat side needs to be facing up so the air guards fit flush (see the pictures below) and you get max ground clearance.
You can clearly see the nerf bar on the left is shorter.
Another angle. And you can see the taper in the nerf bar, one side is flat the other is curved. Flat side should be facing up.
Shorter nerf bar needs to be on the right side.
Diff Gasket Tip
. The gasket fits really snug in the ring gears of the front and rear diffs and the holes in the gasket are precisely the size of the holes in the ring gear. So, install the gasket in the ring gear at an angle and get the first hole aligned perfectly before working the rest of the gasket in. You can smear a little bit of black grease on both sides of the gasket first. Once the gasket is fully seated, you can not turn it within the ring gear.
Outer Diff Shims Tip.
Getting the diff in the housings with one shim on each side can be challenging. They are delicate, thin, and have nothing to keep them in place while you try to install the diff. It's very easy to buckle/bend one or miss getting it in the housing. What you can do to make installation easier is to cut a .5mm x 30-40 degree chamfer on the inside of each of the four corners of the bearing lip of each diff housing halve (8 total for front diff, 8 total for rear diff). [See pic below] This allows a bit of alignment assistance to get the diff installed without damaging the shims.
I also found this chart comparing Losi 8ight and Hot Bodies D8 springs, both of which fit Tekno shocks.
I made a chart of the Kyosho springs.
Here's a chart of all the available springs together.
Originally Posted by SMR 510RR
Alright guys, I got tired of referring to 3 different spring charts to compare different brands so I compiled all of them and sorted them by spring rate. Please feel free to pass this along.
It will also print nicely on a 8.5x11 piece of paper to keep in your track bag for quick reference while at the track. Also, if anyone wants any other springs added (I think I got most of the popular ones) please let me know and if you find any errors please let me know.
Avid RC now makes a bearing kit.
The kit comes with 450cSt front and 350cSt rear shock oils. This translates to Losi 35 and Associated 37.5 for the front, Losi 27.5 and Associated 30 for the rear. If you're switching to any other companies oils, starting within 5 wt (or 50cSt) of those should be fine for your first runs. Use that as a starting point and tune from there.
The SCT410 was designed to run SCTE and SC104x4 wheels. We have found that some wheels made to fit these trucks have slight differences from manufacturer to manufacturer. If your wheel rubs the steering link screw you can remove the all of the bumpsteer washers above the ballend to lower the head of the screw. If it still hits you can remove the washers under the ballend (be sure to adjust your bumpsteer setting on the ackermann plate to compensate). If it still rubs after that running a cap head screw in place of the socket head should remove any chance of the wheel hitting the screw. Here's a list of wheels that fit with and without modification.
These recommendations are based on 2s lipo setups and are guidelines only. If you're switching to this vehicle from another that you had achieved a speed you liked I highly recommend visiting this site -http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html
, inputting your old/current vehicles information, recording that data, then input the SCT410 info and adjust the pinion gear until you are close to your original top speed.
Small track (50-100 ft straight)
3600-4000 kv 13-15 tooth pinion
4400-4800 kv 12-14 tooth pinion
5000-5400 kv 11-13 tooth pinion
Medium track (100-150 ft straight)
3600-4000 kv 15-17 tooth pinion
4400-4800 kv 14-16 tooth pinion
5000-5400 kv 13-15 tooth pinion
Large track (150-200 ft straight)
3600-4000 kv 16-18 tooth pinion
4400-4800 kv 15-17 tooth pinion
5000-5400 kv 14-16 tooth pinion
INNER HINGE PIN ADJUSTMENTS
The SCT410 has adjustable hinge pin holders that allow users to fine tune their truck for different tracks, conditions, or driving styles.
The front outer adjusts the amount of front arm "sweep" in 0.5 degree increments from 1 degree forward to 1 degree back.
The front inner adjusts the amount of arm kick-up in 0.5 degree increments from 10 degrees up to 12 degrees. This in turn also adjusts your total caster angle from 20-22 degrees.
Looking at the picture, the top option is 10 and 20 degrees (kick-up and total caster) and the bottom is 12 and 22 degrees.
The rear outer adjusts your toe angle in 0.5 degree increments from 0 degrees up to 4 degrees. (That is in conjunction with the hub carrier, which has a built in toe angle of 1 degree)
The rear inner adjusts anti squat angle in 0.5 degree increments from 1 degree up to 3 degrees.
The purpose of sweeping the arm forward or backward is mostly to sweep the driveshafts forward or backward. When the driveshafts are angled it changes how the car reacts on and off power. (This goes for the rear driveshafts as well.)
When the driveshafts are swept forwards, the stub axles are being twisted down toward the ground, pushing down on the tires and lifting the front of the chassis. This can be helpful in really bumpy sections to keep the front up and not dig in. It will also create more weight transfer to the front during braking which will increase your off-power steering.
When the driveshafts are swept backwards, the stub axles are now being twisted up, lifting the tires and pushing the chassis down. We've found that the biggest benefit to sweeping the arms back is jump landing. With the arms back, the car kind of "sucks" itself to the ground. It settles much faster and allows you to get on the throttle immediately. During breaking and off throttle the chassis will stay a little flatter front to back and either feel "pushy" or more controlled into the corner.
You can adjust the rear sweep by changing the wheelbase.
It's possible to have toe in on the rear and have the axles swept backwards (not on our car, I'm just making a generalization), but it doesn't handle well. It will squat really hard on acceleration and the nose will dip under braking. If any of you have ever driven a Revo with the long wheelbase rear arms you know what I'm talking about
Most aftermarket bodies now have several sets of dimples that mark where the body posts are for different manufacturers. Our posts can be adjusted to directly line up with those of the Losi SCTE, Traxxas Slash, and the Durango. Any body designed for a 1/10th scale SC truck will fit, you just may have to find the body post locations on your own.
LeadFinger RC makes a makes a stainless steel skid-plate. Here's a link
to the store.
APE-RC makes a stainless steel skid-plate. Here's a link
to his online store.
T-Bone Racing makes several bumpers/skids in different sizes for the front and rear of the truck.
Here's a link
to the Tekno section of their online store.
DE-Racing's rear skid plate
Hot Laps R/C makes carbon fiber air guards for the SCT410.
Right now the only hexes that are a no mod fit are the Tekno hexes. There are two versions, PN: TKR1654X
, originally designed for the Slash and SC104x4, and PN: TKR5571A
. TKR1654X will however increase your track width by 1mm per side. If you are running SCTE wheels your truck will still be ROAR legal width with the wider hexes. If you are running SC10 4X4 wheels you may be over the ROAR maximum with the wider hexes, there are some slight differences between manufactures.
Tekno's hex kit comes with 8 shims that are designed to go between the drive pin and the bearing. They are there to take up any slop due to manufacturing tolerances. They may or may not be needed. It is normal for one wheel to need one or two shims and another to need zero. Install the hex without any shims and install the wheel as if you were going to run the car. If there is excessive play, add one shim and retest. The goal is to have just a tick of free play, you do not want it so tight that it binds up.
Associated SC104x4 aluminum hexes will work if you sand down the pin side far enough that the hex cannot rub on the bearing or carrier. PN:ASC91171
Knowing that the SC104x4 hexes work with modification, optional hexes for that truck may work as well (with modding) such as STRC's. PN:SPTSTC91027GM The last 2 letters of the PN indicate the color of the hex.
Ok guys, we couldn't decide to use a slide on the pin or side load for
these hexes, so we just did both.
these hexes are made to fit the 6 mm axle.
the retaining nuts can be used with either loading method, but is not
necessary for the the side load model.
the only issue was that due to the hole location in the axle, you may not be
able to use the 6 mm shim. I had to make it like that to make it fit.
LIST OF COMPATIBLE ALUMINUM SERVO HORNS:
OTHER STEERING UPGRADES
APE-RC makes a stainless steel ackermann plate.
It's available here.
Tekno makes an aluminum ackermann plate.
Available direct, your LHS, or your favorite online store.
APE-RC has a great shock tool set that can be purchased here.
CAMBER LINK INFO
The camber links need a 4mm turnbuckle wrench for adjustment. We've found that some wrenches work exceptionally well.-
-The Losi stamped steel wrench (the one included with the 22 series of vehicles)
-The Hudy wrench
Inner camber link adjustment
This is a quote from Shark413
I also want to thank Cain for his feedback on the rear inner camber link mounting screws. At first I didn't think it was a huge problem, but then I went to adjust the inner link mount and found it was a royal pain to remove the screw. Per the instructions I have the screw head facing the rear (towards the rear bumper) it is almost impossible to get a normal 2.5mm hex wrench in there without removing the upper rear bumper mount. Cain suggested turning the screw around for easier access. I decided to take his advice and turned the screws around and I just wanted to post a few pictures to better explain the issue and fix. Cain I knew you wouldn't let me down, thanks again.
This is the problem. This is the rear inner camber link mounting screw when installed per the instructions.
If you want to make adjustments, you can't get a hex wrench on the screw head.
You can get a short allen wrench or ball end hex wrench in there to loosen the screw, but.....
If you want to move the screw to a different hole it hits the upper rear bumper mount.
By reversing the screw you can remove it once you remove the nut. Installing it requires you to hold the nut with pilers as you tighten the screw.
And this is what it looks like all bolted down. You can now access the screw/nut and are able to adjust the screw location without removing the bumper mount.
Optional Titanium links can be found at Lunsford-
Lunsford 5x55mm Titanium Turnbuckle
Lunsford 5x45mm Titanium Turnbuckle
Lunsford 5x50mm Titanium Turnbuckle
Lunsford 4x55mm Titanium Turnbuckle
Durango Makes aluminum links that can fit-
A note about the Durango links, on the buggy, 5x64 works on both front and rear links unless you run them really short (this is more of an issue on the front then the rear). The front truck camber links are already shorter so I think only the 5x48's will fit. The rear camber links are the same as the buggy's so a 5x64 should fit, but if you're running a shorter link you may either have to cut it down or run the 5x48. The 4x60 fit the steering links on both the truck and buggy.
Lightweight parts and chassis modding
Several manufacturers now make carbon fiber towers for the SCT410 and EB48.
-SNR Graphite makes front and rear towers as well as a center diff top plate. http://www.snrgraphite.com/index.php...0f722349d96255
-Xtreme Racing makes, towers, diff braces, and mudguards. http://www.xtremercracing.com/SCT410.cfm
-Tekno RC makes front http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5028c...bon-fiber-5mm/
and rear http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5029c...bon-fiber-4mm/
The stock chassis is stamped 4mm 7075 black anodized aluminum with a minimum amount of cutouts.
The stock EB48 chassis is milled 7075 hard anodized aluminum with a number of cutouts. It decreases weight, increases flex, and maintains stock hole locations and chassis thickness.
M2CRacing released 2 new chassis-
M2C RACING is pleased to announce the release of our Tekno Electric
chassis for the 1/8 scale and sct410.
We will have 2 models. The standard design and the modded model which
will move the battery tray back 10 mm.
These chassis are made using 1/8 inch(3.25mm) thick 7075 aircraft grade materials and clear anodized.
use of the material greatly increases the overall life of the chassis.
we have tested and tweeked these chassis to provide the racers a top notch chassis that will perform very well on all surfaces.
This model is made for the tracks with a high wear situations like the tracks we have out West, up north and in Canada
It is important to note that these skid plates fit flush to the bottom of the chassis and will not effect the droop settings and cause you to
scrub speed on the landings.
We have adopted this model so that if you wish you can cut off the front bumper to help the vehicle not to get upset on landings
and increase ground clearance.
front and rear skid plates.
It is advised you replace the skid plate when the edge of the skid plate wears down to 1 mm.
This will make the chassis last much longer.
hardened droop stops to prevent chassis wear and droop changes.
m2c 6501 (front and rear skid plate)
m2c 6502 (front rear skid plate)
And be sure to take advantage of our 20% off discount coupon
just copy and paste in the coupon box as you check out.
Several people are modding their battery tray to move the battery back to the front of the brake servo mount. Here's an example by sramos.
Heres the jist of what i did. the rubber that goes along the side of battery tray is from a rubber pipe couple i picked home from home depot and cut off and glued in. put a big enough foam in rear to keep well away from diff.
A track with loose conditions is where you'll see the biggest benefit of running an overdrive setup. To achieve this you will need to run the truggy ring and pinion in the rear of the buggy.
You have to use both
the pinion and ring gear from the truggy. The truggy's ring gear has a different offset to mate up with the smaller 9t pinion gear.
I built up a whole truggy diff so that I could quickly swap out the diff and pinion gear at the track. It's more expensive that way but the time it saves you at the track is worth it.
For those that are thinking of trying the truggy gears in the rear, here's a couple of tips/things to be aware of -
-You'll need to go up 1 tooth on your pinion gear or you'll lose a noticeable amount of top speed.
-You may want to strongly consider going up in your center diff oil if you're running 5k or less.
-Be aware that your buggy will jump with more of a "nose up attitude" then before.
-Your buggy will now have a slight drag brake off-power coming from the rear end.
ALUMINUM SCREW LISTING
I just made a list of all the screws, washers and nuts needed to convert a Tekno ride over to all aluminum screws. I listed the stock replacement Tekno screw part number first with details beside each. Only screws I did not list for an aluminum swap are the diff screws holding the ring/spur on to the diff. That's a high load bearing screw and steel is a better choice there.
Tekno Screw List:
Tekno #1523 3x10mm Flat Head 2
Tekno #1529 3x20mm Cap Head 20
Tekno #1341 4x6mm Flat Head 6
Tekno #1525 3x14mm Cap Head 18
Tekno #1524 3x12mm Cap Head 10
Tekno #1333 3x40mm Flat Head 4
Tekno #1327 3x16mm Flat Head 4
Tekno #1443 4x10mm Button Head 11
Tekno #1522 3x8mm Cap Head 9
Tekno #1445 4x14mm Button Head 6
Tekno #1447 4x16mm Button Head 2
Tekno #1401 3x6mm Button Head 8
Tekno #1448 4x18mm Button Head 2
Tekno #1343 4x10mm Flat Head 12
Tekno #1322 3x8mm Flat Head 11
Tekno #1344 4x12mm Flat Head 12
Tekno #1346 4x15mm Flat Head 2
Tekno #1325 3x14mm Flat Head 3
Tekno #1407 3x16mm Button Head 1
3x8mm Washer 20
4x9mm Washer 2
3mm Locknuts 20
3mm Flanged Locknuts 8
Part list for all the Tekno screws cross referenced over to blue aluminum at Fastenerexpress.com:
Only thing not listed are the washers.
M3 x .5 x 8mm Socket Head Cap Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30968
M3 x .5 x 12mm Socket Head Cap Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30974
M3 x .5 x 20mm Socket Head Cap Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30989
M3 x .5 x 16mm Button Head Socket Screws - Blue Anodized Qty. 25
Item Number: 30671
M3 x .5 x 6mm Flat Head Socket Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30750
M3 x .5 x 10mm Flat Head Socket Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30756
M3 x .5 x 16mm Flat Head Socket Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30765
M4 x .7 x 10mm Button Head Socket Screws - Blue Anodized Qty. 25
Item Number: 30604
M4 x .7 x 14mm Button Head Socket Screws - Blue Anodized Qty. 25
Item Number: 30610
M4 x .7 x 16mm Button Head Socket Screws - Blue Anodized Qty. 25
Item Number: 30613
M4 x .7 x 18mm Button Head Socket Screws - Blue Anodized 25 Pieces
Item Number: 30622
M4 x .7 x 10mm Flat Head Socket Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30717
M4 x .7 x 12mm Flat Head Socket Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30720
M4 x .7 x 14mm Flat Head Socket Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30723
M4 x .7 x 6mm Flat Head Socket Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30711
3mm Hex Lock Nut Aluminum,Low Profile 5.5mm Hex - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30147
M3 x .5 x 14mm Socket Head Cap Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30977
M3 x .4 x 6mm Button Head Socket Screws - Blue Anodized Qty. 25
Item Number: 30646
M3 x .5 x 14mm Flat Head Socket Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 90193
Total with all screws having a count of 25 is $162.58
I will keep updating it as information becomes available. Thanks.