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Old 09-16-2013, 11:54 AM   #14731
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Originally Posted by Bortzilla View Post
I would recommend staying away from the Avid wheels...I rounded out the hexes in those on a few separate occasions...Never had a problem with any other brands.
Stock or metal hexes? I've beat mine up quite a bit without issues so far.
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Old 09-16-2013, 11:56 AM   #14732
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I have had one of the 4 Tekno vehicles I run get the binding on top of the steering post. Pulling the front off and then putting it back on as originally done in the manual (tightening screws a bit at a time, instead of in just once place) seemed to fix it. I think I developed it after trying to cheat and only pull part of the front off while rebuilding something (I think it was the hinge pin when I added that in after the fact?).

As for the arms, I've had to ream or break in mine. I just used a long screw as I didn't have a reamer, though added the 2 buck reamer from hobbyking to my most recent purchase from there. Side note: I LOVED that the extra strong arms I got for my EB48 build had come pre-reamed (this was before the .2 release, so I got them in a separate package).

As for wheels, I still like the stock SCTE Losi wheels. I've deformed the AKA's a bit, cracked around the hub of some others. I recently tried the F11's and like them a lot too.

Lastly, regarding the motors as folks have been talking about it. I've been running 16t with an RX8 Gen2 and HobbyWing 4700, 65% current limit, no boost/turbo/timing/drag/push. The ESC will thermal without the fan, but with the fan comes off around 130 and the motor comes off around 135-145 depending on ambient and how much I push it that day. It'll also come off about the same temp after 10 minutes as it does from 5 minutes. This is both indoor smaller track with more wheel spin and an outdoor high grip track with more hard braking.

Here's an example of the outdoor track, I'm the yellow truck and I wasn't squeezing it full at the start of the straight so as to still have some tire by the end of the main, but you can see that speed is not an issue with those electronics settings and gearing (please pardon the first lap or so while I got used to the SC again from 2wd buggy):
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ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 09-16-2013, 12:05 PM   #14733
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Originally Posted by Bortzilla View Post
I would recommend staying away from the Avid wheels...I rounded out the hexes in those on a few separate occasions...Never had a problem with any other brands.
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Originally Posted by snwchris View Post
I have a set of the Proline F11s and AKA Enduros mounted to them. I have used them all summer and have been great. I plan on buying another set this week since indoor season will be starting soon
Thanks for the heads up. I think I will order some more F11s then. Got a bunch of super soft compound Rattlers? (the panther barcode style tires, forget the name) that I want to have mounted so if running indoors again in the cold weather, will be all set.

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Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
I have had one of the 4 Tekno vehicles I run get the binding on top of the steering post. Pulling the front off and then putting it back on as originally done in the manual (tightening screws a bit at a time, instead of in just once place) seemed to fix it. I think I developed it after trying to cheat and only pull part of the front off while rebuilding something (I think it was the hinge pin when I added that in after the fact?).
Lol, that is exactly what happened to me. I was setting her vehicle up like mine and was changing the inserts and whammo, I bet that did it.

Good thing, will give her the opportunity to do some dissassembly. My youngest (3) already wants to help out with all of that and more lol.

If I really wanted to give her a workout, I could have let her wrench on an SC10 4x4 to get to the diffs
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Old 09-16-2013, 12:08 PM   #14734
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Er: I meant hinge pin braces...running without hinge pins wouldn't work so well. Cain got it though.
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Old 09-16-2013, 12:49 PM   #14735
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I don't know if anyone else has this issue, but it looks like my motor mount is slightly crooked. I've tried loosening everything and re-adjusting it straight, but nothing seems to work. I don't recall ever crashing into anything hard enough sideways to cause this. There is no visible damage anywhere to make me think that this was caused by a crash. Performance hasn't been effected, but it just looks strange. What do you guys think?

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Old 09-16-2013, 12:56 PM   #14736
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Originally Posted by karl wasabi View Post
I don't know if anyone else has this issue, but it looks like my motor mount is slightly crooked. I've tried loosening everything and re-adjusting it straight, but nothing seems to work. I don't recall ever crashing into anything hard enough sideways to cause this. There is no visible damage anywhere to make me think that this was caused by a crash. Performance hasn't been effected, but it just looks strange. What do you guys think?
I think there is just a large tolerance between the mount and the slider. Loosen both screws and it should straighten out. Hold it straight while tightening.
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Old 09-16-2013, 02:28 PM   #14737
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Anyone know how much lighter the buggy chassis is than the 410 one?

My truck weighs in w/body and batt at 7lbs 1oz stock. I'd like to shed some weight lol
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Old 09-16-2013, 02:49 PM   #14738
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
yup, it was this listing I bought:

Tekno SCT 410

For the price, I couldn't pass it up. She was going to start with my RC10B4.X that had the front end "RPM'd", but, this worked out better.

Now the old man needs a new body, I think my flotek is done.

Anyone got a recommendation on any of the proline bodies outside of that EVO one?
Thought so ! I race with nitro neil and he had that truck hooked up at the local track .....
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Old 09-16-2013, 03:04 PM   #14739
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Originally Posted by jason248 View Post
Anyone know how much lighter the buggy chassis is than the 410 one?

My truck weighs in w/body and batt at 7lbs 1oz stock. I'd like to shed some weight lol
There's a Google doc near the bottom of the first post that has the chassis weights and also things like stock towers vs carbon towers.

IMO, keep the weight down low and shed up top with all the carbon bits and titanium screws.
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Last edited by fq06; 09-16-2013 at 03:25 PM.
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Old 09-16-2013, 03:15 PM   #14740
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Originally Posted by jason248 View Post
Anyone know how much lighter the buggy chassis is than the 410 one?

My truck weighs in w/body and batt at 7lbs 1oz stock. I'd like to shed some weight lol
Pretty sure it's 3oz lighter so about -84grams
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Old 09-16-2013, 03:35 PM   #14741
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Originally Posted by cjcoffroad View Post
What bodies besides the j concepts titan have people had good luck with?

FTW diamondback. Love mine. Really durable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RokleM View Post
Stock or metal hexes? I've beat mine up quite a bit without issues so far.
+1 all my avids have been fantastic using the +1mm aluminum hexes.
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Old 09-16-2013, 04:26 PM   #14742
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What are the stock front and rear springs on this truck?
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Old 09-16-2013, 04:30 PM   #14743
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Hey Guys,
Soon to be a first time Tekno customer. What type of servo would you recommend: High Speed or High Torque? Please give a little reasoning to your answer. Also what bodies are working well with this truck?
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Old 09-16-2013, 04:48 PM   #14744
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I just saw this Nissan Armada body... and I want it!

http://blog.jconcepts.net/2013/09/jc...mada-sct-body/
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Old 09-16-2013, 04:55 PM   #14745
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Originally Posted by karl wasabi View Post
I just saw this Nissan Armada body... and I want it!

http://blog.jconcepts.net/2013/09/jc...mada-sct-body/
THAT is SICK ! ! ! ! I want one too!
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