Tekno SCT410 Thread
Ok so get the BCE chassis installed and ran it for the first time last night. The truck now flies with better handling which I was able to get it to fly desent before the install but now its alot better. The thing I have noticed though is with the battery in the back position which is less further back then the battery tray mod that I had done prior to the chassis now the truck feels loose in the rear but then I wasnt really going to run indoors anymore this season as I was going to get ready for outdoors but seeing how thats not going to happen around here for another 3 weeks. I just wanted to see how it handled. Any suggestions for outdoor setup loose in corners and entering the straight after a turn?
Last edited by Dragon6502; 04-17-2014 at 06:44 AM.
Tech Champion
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Ok so get the BCE chassis installed and ran it for the first time last night. The truck now flies with better handling which I was able to get it to fly desent before the install but now its alot better. The thing I have noticed though is with the battery in the bat position which is less further back then the battery tray mod that I had done prior to the chassis now the truck feels loose in the rear but then I wasnt really going to run indoors anymore this season as I was going to get ready for outdoors but seeing how thats not going to happen around here for another 3 weeks. I just wanted to see how it handled. Any suggestions for setup loose in corners and entering the straight after a turn?
Past that it's hard to say without knowing your setup.
Tech Fanatic
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I personally love my 4700 hobbywing with rx8 gen2.
I've tried the sct pro and had issues, though most don't have those problems.
Castle ESCs are worthless for racing. I liked their motors, but being sensorless killed that for racing too.
IMO the rx8 is worth every penny (but get a spare computer fan to solder to their connector once the fan fails), as are the hobbywing motors. If you cant afford the rx8, get the sct pro. The tekin motor is great too and you can't go wrong with it, but I find they run hotter and definitely cost more.
A lesser known company, Team Powers, also has a good valued short course motor that is similar to the hobbywing in performance, but at 4600kv. I'm waiting to see how the new trinity motor does, as only a couple reports are in on it so far and it is also an expensive motor.
I've tried the sct pro and had issues, though most don't have those problems.
Castle ESCs are worthless for racing. I liked their motors, but being sensorless killed that for racing too.
IMO the rx8 is worth every penny (but get a spare computer fan to solder to their connector once the fan fails), as are the hobbywing motors. If you cant afford the rx8, get the sct pro. The tekin motor is great too and you can't go wrong with it, but I find they run hotter and definitely cost more.
A lesser known company, Team Powers, also has a good valued short course motor that is similar to the hobbywing in performance, but at 4600kv. I'm waiting to see how the new trinity motor does, as only a couple reports are in on it so far and it is also an expensive motor.
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
Ok so get the BCE chassis installed and ran it for the first time last night. The truck now flies with better handling which I was able to get it to fly desent before the install but now its alot better. The thing I have noticed though is with the battery in the back position which is less further back then the battery tray mod that I had done prior to the chassis now the truck feels loose in the rear but then I wasnt really going to run indoors anymore this season as I was going to get ready for outdoors but seeing how thats not going to happen around here for another 3 weeks. I just wanted to see how it handled. Any suggestions for outdoor setup loose in corners and entering the straight after a turn?
personally, to get the rear end to lock in with a stock Tekno SCT410 i had shortened the rear camber links, lowered the link location on the tower, and was running in general thinner oil than others, 2K in the rear. However with the BCE chassis I am thinking of trying 3K or even 5K in the rear.
You know what actually I noticed on big outdoor tracks sensor less is not that bad if you lower the punch control . On tighter indoor tracks is when I really see sensored a advantage . Sensors less is ok on the tighter indoor tracks .
Tech Fanatic
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Yea my SCT Pro on a scale of 1-9 is set to a a punch rating of 4. I can't say I noticed any difference indoors but I'm on the throttle a lot I guess.
I run the sct pro esc also I have the punch control on 3 for the loose dusty tracks . And it's much smoother you can get on the throttle harder without spining the wheels to much tires and runtime increase . Indoor I did feel a difference for sure with the sensorless but if you learn to hit the jumps with less throttle it's not bad .
I just need to get rid of the ten shock motor on it even at 3.0 v lips cutoff it will kick in before 8 mins . Funny thing is that it did it with my vant 6200mah lipo but the other lipos it was fine nothing kicked in .
I am running a set of HB Beams pink compound and I am using pro line blue foams in them and they are pretty awesome. I like the way they feel together, nice and soft and they hook up nicely.
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Has anybody in here bought the 48.2 and converted it to an sc? If so is there a parts list to do so? I've saw that guys bought the sc and made buggies.
Tech Regular
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What shock oils do y'all suggest for this truck with the Bce chassis using the Tekno 8x1.3 pistons on a medium to large outside layout?
Tech Elite
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Front and rear bumpers
Body mounts
Front and rear arms
Rear hubs
Spindles and spindle carriers
All 4 stub axles
All 4 corner drive shafts
All 4 wheel hexes
Out drives for front and rear diffs
You may also need the shock standoffs
If you don't care about being sc width and cutting tons off of the sc body around the wheels (the scalpel body seems a bit wider than most so may help), then you just need the bumpers and body mounts, but it will look funny and not be allowed to race in most places.
For a complete list to make it exactly the sc, use the sc to buggy list, but in reverse.
Last edited by justpoet; 04-17-2014 at 07:08 PM.
Tech Fanatic
Freshening up my truck. Lots of setups around for clay and all seem way different from each other. I like the stock setup minus braces plus electroclutch with medium springs in it, but I could deal with a bit more liveliness and less understeer mid-corner under power. Small-ish high bite indoor clay. Got some Fioroni pistons to try as well. No huge air, but I'm guessing big holes on top? Setup sheet links or tips appreciated. I have the v1 truck as they first shipped if that matters.
Going to try this setup since he's using Fioroni pistons: http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...r_med_bite.pdf
Going to try this setup since he's using Fioroni pistons: http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...r_med_bite.pdf
Tech Addict
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Just get one of these and it should work with your current tablet. $4
http://www.amazon.com/SANOXY-Micro-U.../dp/B005QX7KYU
http://www.amazon.com/SANOXY-Micro-U.../dp/B005QX7KYU
Tech Regular
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Need some advice. I have been running my. Tekno sct for about two months. The first month I did not have a problem. Now the truck runs for about four minutes then loses steering. I am running a hobbywing sct pro with a 4700 motor with a 15 tooth pinion. I am running a little drag brake. I have two newer smc 7200 batteries. I played around with steering linkage and do not think that is the culprit. I changed out the servo to a high quality airtronics....had a great jr in there previously... I don't know what to try next.....esc.....servo saver.... I looked at the latter and it appears to be cranked down.... I can also shorten my motor wires, but it worked fine before... I may even try to resolder...maybe I have a cold joint...but once again it worked before..... Please advise.... Also I temped the motor and it is 140 or less. The esc is much less than that and the battery is not warm.... This usually happens at about 3.85 volts per cell and I have my lvc turned off.