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Old 02-21-2016, 07:50 PM
  #10486  
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Our track was pretty blown out today. Even though we are running blue groove again I ran my wet car with 5/3 in the diffs & center slipper. I wouldn't go any lower than that. That combo works when the track is wet too. That's pretty much as low as our traction gets. When traction is better 8/100/5 was working pretty good with 37.5/32.5 in the shocks w/book set up. I tried to push the car pretty hard today and had a couple of horrific crashes.....still nothing broken.
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Old 02-21-2016, 08:03 PM
  #10487  
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Originally Posted by Slapjack
So you used the 1.5+1.1 in the front and rear? Would you stick with that or would you try the 1.6+1.1 in the rear?
Personally I like the 1.5 +1.1 front and 1.6 +1.1 much better than the the 2 hole. To me they are a little more versatile.
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Old 02-21-2016, 08:06 PM
  #10488  
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Originally Posted by Slapjack
So you used the 1.5+1.1 in the front and rear? Would you stick with that or would you try the 1.6+1.1 in the rear?
I used 1.6 1.1 rear 1.5 1.1 front. Sorry I miss read your question. I really like this piston combo.
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Old 02-21-2016, 08:16 PM
  #10489  
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Hello XB4 uurrrs, Has anyone put the rear shocktower on the backside of the diff tower bulkhead. Thus running the rear shocks mounted to the backside of the rear a arms?
I am going to test this this upcoming weekend but until then wondering if any one has tried and if so likes, dislikes? Easy enough to switch back thus it's worth the try. Also wondering with the rear wing being farther being back in this config will provide better flight. Thinking this set up could promote the pendulum effect, however the 16 chassis I believe is 4mm shorter thus maybe beneficial in running this set up. I am to tired thus forgive me if the above makes no sense.
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Old 02-21-2016, 11:37 PM
  #10490  
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Originally Posted by suprteck
New owner of a XB4 -16, I have a tekin gen 3 7.5T motor with a 22T pinon. Is normal for the pinon gear to stick out towards the front of the car more than the spur gear? There is no way to tighten down the set screw for the pinon gear if it is inline with the spur gear. I am using the xray pinon as stated in the manual. If I flip the pinon gear around the set screw barely grabs the motor shaft when its inline with the spur gear.
So I ended up tightening the pinon gear first and then sticking in a couple of 1.5mm shims between the motor and the motor bulkhead so the pinion gear is inline with the spur gear. Seems like a pain because if i want to change pinon gears I would have to remove the shims so i have enough space to get access to the set screw...
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Old 02-21-2016, 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by suprteck
So I ended up tightening the pinon gear first and then sticking in a couple of 1.5mm shims between the motor and the motor bulkhead so the pinion gear is inline with the spur gear. Seems like a pain because if i want to change pinon gears I would have to remove the shims so i have enough space to get access to the set screw...
could you upload some photos? i cannot really understand why and what you did there with the sims on the gear...
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Old 02-21-2016, 11:48 PM
  #10492  
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Originally Posted by grifind
could you upload some photos? i cannot really understand why and what you did there with the sims on the gear...
when installing the pinon gear as far in to the motor as possible while still being able to get to the set screw the pinon gear is not even with the spur gear so its only mating with 3/4 of the gear. So i shim the motor more rearward so now the pinon gear is making full contact with the spur gear.
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Old 02-22-2016, 12:12 AM
  #10493  
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I used a dremel and cut a notch into the piece of the motor mount that screws onto the motor so I could tighten the pinion far enough down the motor shaft.
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Old 02-22-2016, 12:34 AM
  #10494  
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Originally Posted by fullsyzz
I used a dremel and cut a notch into the piece of the motor mount that screws onto the motor so I could tighten the pinion far enough down the motor shaft.
I was just thinking about doing that afterwards lol. Did you do it at the 12 o'clock position?
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Old 02-22-2016, 07:50 AM
  #10495  
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Originally Posted by Norse
Personally I like the 1.5 +1.1 front and 1.6 +1.1 much better than the the 2 hole. To me they are a little more versatile.
What springs and fluid did you use with those Pistons? I bought my xb4 used and the springs don't have any markings so I am assuming they are the stock springs. But I was going to order 1dot for the rear and not sure what for he front. Or will 1dot be too soft with those 1.6+1.1 Pistons?
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Old 02-22-2016, 08:20 AM
  #10496  
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Originally Posted by suprteck
I was just thinking about doing that afterwards lol. Did you do it at the 12 o'clock position?
Yep, right on top.
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Old 02-22-2016, 09:07 AM
  #10497  
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Originally Posted by Norse
Hello XB4 uurrrs, Has anyone put the rear shocktower on the backside of the diff tower bulkhead. Thus running the rear shocks mounted to the backside of the rear a arms?
I am going to test this this upcoming weekend but until then wondering if any one has tried and if so likes, dislikes? Easy enough to switch back thus it's worth the try. Also wondering with the rear wing being farther being back in this config will provide better flight. Thinking this set up could promote the pendulum effect, however the 16 chassis I believe is 4mm shorter thus maybe beneficial in running this set up. I am to tired thus forgive me if the above makes no sense.
I tried that this past weekend at a big race. I was hoping to get more rear bite. Honestly I couldn't even feel the difference and I think it was because we ran on indoor turf that is fairly new. The car was very loose and almost just floating on top of the turf. And the wing I just cut around the shocks. I'm gonna leave this set up for my home track and see if I could feel any difference there. Not really much help just figured I would throw it out there.
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Old 02-22-2016, 09:30 AM
  #10498  
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Originally Posted by jordan860
I tried that this past weekend at a big race. I was hoping to get more rear bite. Honestly I couldn't even feel the difference and I think it was because we ran on indoor turf that is fairly new. The car was very loose and almost just floating on top of the turf. And the wing I just cut around the shocks. I'm gonna leave this set up for my home track and see if I could feel any difference there. Not really much help just figured I would throw it out there.

I was also going to try this but I read somewhere that you will get more traction with the shocks in front of the towers. I have enough issues with traction so I just left them in front. But if someone gets results of better traction with the shocks behind he towers on low-med bite clay please post about it.
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Old 02-22-2016, 09:34 AM
  #10499  
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Originally Posted by Slapjack
I was also going to try this but I read somewhere that you will get more traction with the shocks in front of the towers. I have enough issues with traction so I just left them in front. But if someone gets results of better traction with the shocks behind he towers on low-med bite clay please post about it.
I did feel like I lost a small amount of traction and seemed to claim the car down witch is opposite of how I drive. Someone told me the same as what you were told but I needed to try anything at that point.
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Old 02-22-2016, 03:01 PM
  #10500  
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Originally Posted by randy0025
heck no, 3k and 1k is way way to low. I run 5k front and 3k rear on the worst blown out track here on dirt. i would think by the video that anything under 7k front and 5k rear would be to low, I would even try 8k, 8k or 1ok, 7k from the looks of things
I tried 7kfront kai 3k rear today and i have to say i am 1sec faster in average times...
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