littleZEN

iTrader: (30)

I've only run on clay and I too have the bugle boy bumper. It really does help with the lawn darting. The only explanation I can give is the large curvature of the bugle boy bumper reduces the tendency to dig into the clay. The stock bumper isn't curved. It just has a rounded edge if that makes sense.

Norse

iTrader: (43)

I have always built XB4 diffs using the aluminum diff pins, with that being the case I was wondering how the composite 1 piece cross diff pin performs? I will be building another 16 XB4 and am wondering if I should save some coin and go with the kits 1 piece composite diff cross diff pin.

Oh! not to go overboard but I think everyone whom has shared their positive experience with the bugleboy front skid/bumper are just trying to provide a nice tuning option for dirt and clay track types, as the BB really helps.

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

Is there a place here in the US that sells the BB bumper or do I have to order direct from them?

Norse

iTrader: (43)

RCGOD, unfortunately no one has them in the states and BugleBoy is out of stock. I did email Thomas at BugleBoy last night, thus inquiring on when he will have new ones ready... Crazy as I purchase 3 not to long ago which one of the three I had to send to a buddy as he had sent me one of his while I was waiting for mine and the extra one I had I gave to a fella whom was having an issue on a clay?dirt track.
When in stock they do ship fast from Australia being 7days.

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

Thanks Norse. I'll order direct then.

BDRMBULLY

iTrader: (40)

Funny thing is my car was doing the same thing in my buds back yard clay track. I had the bb bumper and it didnt last but 3 race nights . I had one and bought him one as well and his lasted 2 more race nights than mine.

Norse

iTrader: (43)

That's crazy strange. I have never had one go bad.

Norse

iTrader: (43)

Hopefully they will restock soon.

Boz

iTrader: (23)

I would agree with you on the slapping.

But.....
we had a race on our only astro track in the area last weekend. There were 3 jumps with flat landings around this track. I used Malin setup from DHI, except I had to use 700 in the front because I didn't have any 750. It was good, I just had to adjust to the astro driving style and track was really bumpy with lots of joins. I was surprised at how good the car landed. One jump you would land some 5 meters from the take off. A little pop at the end, but I would call that exceptable, not really a slap.

I'm going to leave this setup on for Friday racing a see how it goes on the dirt. I will change the diff oils back to 8000 and rollbars back to 1.4mm. The rest will stay the same. Lately I have been using 650 in the front/2dot and 450 in the rear/1dot and yes, it seems very unsettled and slaps on the ground on flat landing when you miss the down ramp.

Norse

iTrader: (43)

Wondering since I have only used the hardened aluminum diff pins if they provide any extra benefit compared to the composite single cross diff pin? Thinking the one piece comp diff pin may provides a smoother mesh within the gears in the diff?

Boz

iTrader: (23)

You say new arms!!! Why is Xray using the same part numbers for the '16 arms as they do for the '15 arms if the geometry is different? That's confusing.


Lets take Boarder RC for instance. Search 363111 and it bring up all right rear arms. It doesn't mention anything about the standard arm being a V2 version.
Xray cant expect us to use an arm from a '15 car (with 4 drilled holes) on a '16 car that you saying has different geometry on the arm?


That means if we replace an arm, we may have to replace both of them so we have the same type on both sides? Therefore our car is no longer a '16 car if we use the '15 arms that have a different geometry.

How are we meant to order the correct arms?




What is the difference in the arms?
I can see that the holes are filled in and some more material has been added around the shock mounting screw holes.

RobsRacin

iTrader: (13)

I agree. I bought spares off the wall from my LHS, they havnt bought xray parts in a while but the PN matched so I assumed they were the same geometry. Are they different? So ill have to change both if I break one

Norse

iTrader: (43)

I think the 16 arms part numbers are as follows:

362112 front lower arms kit (composite)
362112-g front lower arms (graphite)
363111-g right lower rear arm (graphite)
363121-g left lower rear arm (graphite)

363111 right lower rear arm kit (composite)
363121 left lower rear arm kit (composite)

Norse

iTrader: (43)

Fellas I posted what I believe are the PN for the 16 arms in composite and graphite.

Troy Carter

iTrader: (22)

I agree, the BB bumper does not do what I was hoping for.

I chose not to use the BB bumper because I believe that it will still hit the ground before the wheels even if it does help the lawn darting issue. An issue that is non-existent with other cars due to how far back the front bumper of the car is behind the front wheels. So for me it was not an option.

My car doesn't nose dive off every jump, but it can happen and works very well. In the right hands it's amazing and in my hands it's respectable. This is dirt offroad and it has it's inconsistencies that can cause this occasionally. Most of us see it from time to time and it was frustrating to happen on this car but not others so I did something about it. I'm simply eliminating the possibility of it, not reducing it or having to worry about driving around it.

I don't run drag brake, don't need it with a 13.5 motor.

I'm not asking for setup help, driving help, or other solutions. I'm just sharing what I did and wish the car was like out of the factory. Clearly I'm not the only one who's seen this issue and I'm sure that if this was a factory setup all of us would be happy with it. Nobody with a 22-4 or SRX4 is adding a bumper that sticks out further because it's simply not needed and now it's not needed on my XB4. Love it or hate it, my car simply won't lawn dart anymore.