246LikesXray XB4 thread
11-10-2015, 12:31 PM
#9256
Bentka,
I am thinking about purchasing the brass rear hanger set for my 16 XB4. Just wanted to get your input on how much they will benefit the buggy on loose bite track conditions.
Would you happen to know how many extra grams of weight they will add.
With your early advice to run my 16 XB4 with the motor in its spec kit position first over the rear position has me wondering about just adding the brass hangers for the extra weight.
As always Bentka I appreciate your help and thus sharing set up advise.
Best,
Norse
I am thinking about purchasing the brass rear hanger set for my 16 XB4. Just wanted to get your input on how much they will benefit the buggy on loose bite track conditions.
Would you happen to know how many extra grams of weight they will add.
With your early advice to run my 16 XB4 with the motor in its spec kit position first over the rear position has me wondering about just adding the brass hangers for the extra weight.
As always Bentka I appreciate your help and thus sharing set up advise.
Best,
Norse
Balance is much better on the '16 and combined with a lot more mechanical grip in the car I would've rather spent the money on medium chassis side pods, medium chassis braces, 1dot springs, softer wheels (Xray 12mm) and a center diff.
We have never had the need for the brass hangers on the 4WD only on the XB4 2WD
Stock alu. RR+2 and RF+2 hinge pin holders weigh 7.7 grams.
Brass RR+2 and RF+2 hinge pin holders weigh 26.9 grams.
Bent
11-10-2015, 12:47 PM
#9257
Balance is much better on the '16 and combined with a lot more mechanical grip in the car I would've rather spent the money on medium chassis side pods, medium chassis braces, 1dot springs, softer wheels (Xray 12mm) and a center diff.
We have never had the need for the brass hangers on the 4WD only on the XB4 2WD
Stock alu. RR+2 and RF+2 hinge pin holders weigh 7.7 grams.
Brass RR+2 and RF+2 hinge pin holders weigh 26.9 grams.
Bent
We have never had the need for the brass hangers on the 4WD only on the XB4 2WD
Stock alu. RR+2 and RF+2 hinge pin holders weigh 7.7 grams.
Brass RR+2 and RF+2 hinge pin holders weigh 26.9 grams.
Bent
Thank you Bentka, appreciate the advice on what direction I should go. I have a new center diff kit and 1 dot springs. Thus I will order the medium chassis side pods, and medium chassis braces.
If I was running the above suggested medium chassis braces, and side pods and needed to stiffen up the chassis quickly due to the track conditions changing from loose bite to medium bite, would incorporating the rear carbon fiber top chassis brace suffice.(not sure on the part number for the rear top CF multi-flex brace)
Thanks Bentka
11-10-2015, 01:01 PM
#9258
Thank you Bentka, appreciate the advice on what direction I should go. I have a new center diff kit and 1 dot springs. Thus I will order the medium chassis side pods, and medium chassis braces.
If I was running the above suggested medium chassis braces, and side pods and needed to stiffen up the chassis quickly due to the track conditions changing from loose bite to medium bite, would incorporating the rear carbon fiber top chassis brace suffice.(not sure on the part number for the rear top CF multi-flex brace)
Thanks Bentka
If I was running the above suggested medium chassis braces, and side pods and needed to stiffen up the chassis quickly due to the track conditions changing from loose bite to medium bite, would incorporating the rear carbon fiber top chassis brace suffice.(not sure on the part number for the rear top CF multi-flex brace)
Thanks Bentka
Steps on the chassis braces would be:
Soft
- Medium brace
- Hard brace
- Medium brace with carbon stiffener
- Hard brace with carbon stiffener
Bent
11-10-2015, 01:26 PM
#9259
11-10-2015, 02:57 PM
#9260
Ok I'm back with my shock not fully compressing question. I think it is a
Combination of all my positions I'm using. I moved the camber link to the inside hole on the hub and it seems to compress fully now. In this pic the right side
Is on the inner hub hole and left is in the middle. The manual days to use the middle but it looks like a lot of camber like that. Now I am trying to think if I ever checked the length of the camber link... But anyways runnin on that inner hub hole is fine right?
Combination of all my positions I'm using. I moved the camber link to the inside hole on the hub and it seems to compress fully now. In this pic the right side
Is on the inner hub hole and left is in the middle. The manual days to use the middle but it looks like a lot of camber like that. Now I am trying to think if I ever checked the length of the camber link... But anyways runnin on that inner hub hole is fine right?
11-10-2015, 03:01 PM
#9261
Got another question too. The manual doesn't show a shim between the arms and the front and rear hangers (making the wheelbase shorter or longer - see pic below). Right now I have mine in the rear making it shorter. That ok?
Also wanted to know if anyone runs there hub/bearing carriers on te inside hole (making the car width wider). Stock position is the outer hole but just wondering if making it wider would make it handle better?
Also wanted to know if anyone runs there hub/bearing carriers on te inside hole (making the car width wider). Stock position is the outer hole but just wondering if making it wider would make it handle better?
11-10-2015, 03:09 PM
#9262
Anybody run the rear shocks in the rear position what are your thoughts and what changes does it make to the car
11-10-2015, 04:03 PM
#9263
Ok I'm back with my shock not fully compressing question. I think it is a
Combination of all my positions I'm using. I moved the camber link to the inside hole on the hub and it seems to compress fully now. In this pic the right side
Is on the inner hub hole and left is in the middle. The manual days to use the middle but it looks like a lot of camber like that. Now I am trying to think if I ever checked the length of the camber link... But anyways runnin on that inner hub hole is fine right?
Combination of all my positions I'm using. I moved the camber link to the inside hole on the hub and it seems to compress fully now. In this pic the right side
Is on the inner hub hole and left is in the middle. The manual days to use the middle but it looks like a lot of camber like that. Now I am trying to think if I ever checked the length of the camber link... But anyways runnin on that inner hub hole is fine right?
The original xb4 didn't have adjustable arms, but from the '14 on there's shims to move the arms back and forth. I'd run it just like you have it for clay.
Moving the hinge pin from the inner to outer position shouldn't change the width since there's corresponding holes in the hub. You're just changing the pivot point.
11-10-2015, 05:31 PM
#9266
With the camber link that is in the middle hole of the hub you have a massive amount of negative camber which would make the driveshaft hit. Adjust the camber link if you want to run the middle hole. Most guys run the middle hole but some run the inner on clay. I always feel like the inner hole allows the rear to move around faster while the middle hole makes it all roll a bit slower and more controlled. You should also get more over all side bite in the middle as the car will roll farther.
The original xb4 didn't have adjustable arms, but from the '14 on there's shims to move the arms back and forth. I'd run it just like you have it for clay.
Moving the hinge pin from the inner to outer position shouldn't change the width since there's corresponding holes in the hub. You're just changing the pivot point.
The original xb4 didn't have adjustable arms, but from the '14 on there's shims to move the arms back and forth. I'd run it just like you have it for clay.
Moving the hinge pin from the inner to outer position shouldn't change the width since there's corresponding holes in the hub. You're just changing the pivot point.
11-10-2015, 06:02 PM
#9267
[QUOTE=oclock;14260205]on a positive note, i got a 65c turningy shorty, 4200 and a chartger, up 100, surprice fast from honkong. 3-4 days to Oslo I got told expected date was 23 dec. but dhl got into it. Art[/QUOTE
Gotta love OSLO! Great city in a great country can't wait to visit again. Definetly will be during the summer.
Welcome to the thread
Gotta love OSLO! Great city in a great country can't wait to visit again. Definetly will be during the summer.
Welcome to the thread
11-10-2015, 06:27 PM
#9268
on a positive note, i got a 65c turningy shorty, 4200 and a chartger, up 100, surprice fast from honkong. 3-4 days to Oslo I got told expected date was 23 dec. but dhl got into it. Art
i regret i cant show u my picturesm i took care to make good ones.
New builders be aware: Servo saver is wrong in instructions.
my tip is, build it so its flush, disregard the 3-4 mm instruction. / at least u can fix it if u dont break it. flush is too looose if racing, thats for sure tho.
i regret i cant show u my picturesm i took care to make good ones.
New builders be aware: Servo saver is wrong in instructions.
my tip is, build it so its flush, disregard the 3-4 mm instruction. / at least u can fix it if u dont break it. flush is too looose if racing, thats for sure tho.
Bent?
Thanks
11-10-2015, 06:33 PM
#9269
Definetly my friend! Like I said I love Norway not just because my families from Norway, as it is an incredible country.
11-10-2015, 07:18 PM
#9270
I wont count threadss, ill just suddenly experience freedom. artThere has been a few having issues with how far the can tighten up their servo saver. Some I believe are not able to get 3mm to 4mm of visible thread on their servo savor.