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Old 07-28-2015, 01:18 PM
  #8596  
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Originally Posted by punkracer24
The guys at RCAmerica and the Hudy's take that stuff very serious. Glad to hear its headed in the right direction for you.
Yep they do, this however will be dealt directly with the Xray in EU as I am an European. And I believe this is a issue outside Xray department so to say.

Originally Posted by HeavyD99
@hugin, that is surprising that a kit in such suspect condition made it into your hands, it might have been destined for return to Xray I hope, and you got it by mistake! Glad to hear they are correcting it for you.

I had a chance to run my '15 this past weekend on a hard packed clay track, kept damp, only minimal dust, with the new 2mm chassis stiffeners, the steering x brace and the floating servo mount. I run in shorty config. I noticed the buggy felt really good, planted and yes, it had traction. I was running mine way too low for no other reason than I was completely misreading my ride height gauge (long story). Anyhow, once at the proper ride height I had loads of traction (but I drove like a donkey). The chassis certainly has flex to it. You can bend it yourself without too much force. As said many times, it's a tuning thing and may not be right for everyone, but I like it. Oh, and no, even after many crashes, flips and a few cartwheels and casing a few jumps, the bottom of the chassis is still flat as glass. The new stiffeners are for traction, the shocks are for handling. I like them.
This kit has either passed inspection that it should not have passed. Or the kit has been tampered with in some way. The Xray kits comes with Xray tape as the seal right? But this one had the sealed tape all on skew and looked to be tampered with. This makes me think that this kit has been put together after it left Xray factories, I.E. it has been opened and the seal has been broken. At least that it what I think has happened here. They also said that this kit did not comes from my national trader for Xray in Norway but from a dealer in Sweden. It should come directly from Xray and not trought a 3rd dealer in Sweden, as I understand the Xray convo trough email. Meaning, yeah, what does that means really? Most likely the Norwegian dealer has bought cheap kits from the Sweden dealer, or just bought them from them because they did have other reason we don't know the reason for.

In the end, this kit has been tampered with after it left Xray factories I am sure, and the bags inside are missing the numbering labels and such, This is not like Xray at all.

What I think? This is a kit is been open to help out some poor guy missing parts and then they have added some bags/ parts later to make it a full kit again. That part can indeed be the chassis plate, that is bent in several axis..

This is making me as an customer to suffer for it. This is not like the Norwegian Xray dealer at all, sending out a kit like this. Unfortunately they are still on summer vacation all this week, so I need to wait to next week to get the new chassis in house..

Anyway, it is dealt with by Xray and the kit will come together and I will indeed enjoy my XB4 soon, after all, that is all that matter

When it comes to chassis flex that is all ok, only problem is if you start out to adjust chassis flex on a bent chassis plate it will never get a car that will drive straight, but we both know that anyway. If I did understand your input correctly?

With the chassis braces etc mounted the chassis will not bend that easy, but as a part in your hand it will fore sure hehe. My biggest concern is the axial issue that is out of line with 2-3mm (0.12''), that is not so easy to correct.
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Old 07-29-2015, 06:42 AM
  #8597  
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Can you Xray guys answer a question for me? What is the diameter of the shock pistons? I understand they are bigger than AE pistons, but how much. Thank you.
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Old 07-29-2015, 01:56 PM
  #8598  
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.473"
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Old 07-31-2015, 07:06 AM
  #8599  
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New release from Xray for the XB4 and upcoming XB2.

Softer for improved traction and more universal 12mm hex mounting.

New 1/10 Off-Road Wheels Aerodisk with 12mm Hex

Specially-designed 1/10 off-road wheels with 12mm internal hex. Perfect fit, and perfect for high-competition racing. The wheels are made from flexible material while still being durable against impacts. The side of the wheel is aerodynamic for maximum performance.

Special features of the wheel are visible from the inside: reinforcement ribs to make the wheels as stable as possible and eliminate deformation.

• 12mm internal hex
• Specially-designed 1/10 off-road wheels
• Excellent for high-competition racing
• Flexible yet durable material
• Perfect fit

#329910 2WD Front Wheel Aerodisk with 12mm Hex - White (2)
#369912 4WD Front Wheel Aerodisk with 12mm Hex - White (2)
#369913 4WD/2WD Rear Wheel Aerodisk with 12mm Hex - White (2)

Bent
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Old 07-31-2015, 07:23 AM
  #8600  
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what width/size 12mm hexes are to be used?
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Old 07-31-2015, 07:29 AM
  #8601  
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Originally Posted by HeavyD99
what width/size 12mm hexes are to be used?
Will find out at the EFRA European Championship next week

http://www.uk2015.com

Bent
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Old 07-31-2015, 07:33 AM
  #8602  
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Originally Posted by BentKa
Will find out at the EFRA European Championship next week

http://www.uk2015.com

Bent
Is Malin going to the Euros?
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Old 07-31-2015, 07:35 AM
  #8603  
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Originally Posted by Mantis Toboggan
Is Malin going to the Euros?
Yes

Bent
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Old 08-02-2015, 02:41 AM
  #8604  
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Does anyone know of a company that sells carbon fibre chassis for the 15 ?
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Old 08-02-2015, 04:01 AM
  #8605  
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I was thinking about trying to run the xb4 as a 2wd buggy for fun. Does anyone know if the xb4 2wd buggy wheels mount directly to the xb4? I'm assuming so since they're both 14mm wheels but wanted to see if there was something else I needed to do.

Thanks!
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Old 08-02-2015, 09:13 PM
  #8606  
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Had a pretty good first "big" race with my XB4. Car was incredibly easy to drive and would more than recommend my setup to anyone racing in high traction.



Here is my setup as well:

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...setup=xb4_2015

The car was awesome. Not sure I could do anything to make it better. I lead the entire race except for the last half a lap when some traffic caused a ruckus. Eager to get out and race it some more.

Last edited by punkracer24; 08-03-2015 at 08:06 PM.
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Old 08-03-2015, 08:55 AM
  #8607  
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If anyone is looking for a good deal on a lightly used XB4 2015, I have one for sale look here.
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Old 08-03-2015, 11:08 AM
  #8608  
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Default Looking for more in-corner steering / 4 hole steering rack

As the title says, I am in search of more in corner steering. My situation is that the initial turn in is good, but once the car is in the middle of the turn, it feels like I have to get off the throttle, wait for the car to rotate and then I can get back on the throttle for exiting the corner.

Basically, the car has a bit of hesitation or "stalling" in the middle of the corner. I have experimented with freeing up the rear end, but after trying different toe settings/track width options, I settled with what I started with prior to experimenting because the car felt the most natural for my driving style.

I am attaching a copy of my setup sheet and I run on medium to medium-high grip indoor clay.http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...2015110154.pdf**I made a mistake on the setup sheet,I am using the stock hubs of 9 degrees. Also run no top decks, but do run the optional graphite stiffeners, x brace, and floating servo mount.

The only change I have made since the setup sheet is to adjust the rear toe to 3 degrees. That helped the car rotate better.

- Would using the front hole on the steering rack give me more in corner steering? (I am currently using the rear hole)
- For those of you that have used the optional 4 hole steering rack (#362573), How did the different hole options affect in corner steering?

Any help is welcome. Thanks.
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Old 08-03-2015, 01:05 PM
  #8609  
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Originally Posted by Freeski
As the title says, I am in search of more in corner steering. My situation is that the initial turn in is good, but once the car is in the middle of the turn, it feels like I have to get off the throttle, wait for the car to rotate and then I can get back on the throttle for exiting the corner.

Basically, the car has a bit of hesitation or "stalling" in the middle of the corner. I have experimented with freeing up the rear end, but after trying different toe settings/track width options, I settled with what I started with prior to experimenting because the car felt the most natural for my driving style.

I am attaching a copy of my setup sheet and I run on medium to medium-high grip indoor clay.http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...2015110154.pdf**I made a mistake on the setup sheet,I am using the stock hubs of 9 degrees. Also run no top decks, but do run the optional graphite stiffeners, x brace, and floating servo mount.

The only change I have made since the setup sheet is to adjust the rear toe to 3 degrees. That helped the car rotate better.

- Would using the front hole on the steering rack give me more in corner steering? (I am currently using the rear hole)
- For those of you that have used the optional 4 hole steering rack (#362573), How did the different hole options affect in corner steering?

Any help is welcome. Thanks.
Take a look at Leon's setup he posted a couple posts before yours. I think if you keep your current shock setup maybe going down to 37.5/27.5 in oils and using his arm mount positions you should have plenty of steering. Also take off the front sway bar. Having really heavy center diff fluid doesn't help off power steering either. Maybe try 100k to 200k.
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Old 08-03-2015, 02:37 PM
  #8610  
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Freeski, I'd start with no sway-bar. It'll give you more steering, and make the steering feel more linear. If you still feel like you need more steering, move the front shocks in on the tower and the arm, and add another downstop shim. I'd always leave the rear toe at 3 degrees.
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