Originally Posted by theclutch

We have a track that looks like this:

https://www.facebook.com/rcexcitemen...type=3&theater

where my car bottoms out on most of the jumps especially the "MIP" one to the left of the picture.

My issue is, the car is handling great otherwise with the exception of the large jumps. The rear ALWAYS slaps hard on the ground and it's disheartening. I've already broken electronics on this.

My rear shocks are 350 pst with the 3 holes by 1.3mm. I used to run 300 pst with 6 holes by 1.0mm. The car handled great with the 6 holes, but it was bottoming out then also. With me going to 3 holes, it appeared to have helped a little.

So my question is, if I go with the 2 hole by 1.4mm and even heavier shock oil (maybe 450), wouldn't the car then suffer tremendously in the turns and small bumps? Should I just change the piston, just the oil OR both? I recall reading something about "pack" and hoping someone could direct me to a thread about it since search is not coming up with it.

Originally Posted by theclutch

We have a track that looks like this:

https://www.facebook.com/rcexcitemen...type=3&theater

where my car bottoms out on most of the jumps especially the "MIP" one to the left of the picture.

My issue is, the car is handling great otherwise with the exception of the large jumps. The rear ALWAYS slaps hard on the ground and it's disheartening. I've already broken electronics on this.

My rear shocks are 350 pst with the 3 holes by 1.3mm. I used to run 300 pst with 6 holes by 1.0mm. The car handled great with the 6 holes, but it was bottoming out then also. With me going to 3 holes, it appeared to have helped a little.

So my question is, if I go with the 2 hole by 1.4mm and even heavier shock oil (maybe 450), wouldn't the car then suffer tremendously in the turns and small bumps? Should I just change the piston, just the oil OR both? I recall reading something about "pack" and hoping someone could direct me to a thread about it since search is not coming up with it.

Originally Posted by ezlight

I blew my ESC on that track in the main during the tekin race. The last jump just before the straight in front of the drivers stand, my car landed perfectly on all fours, but slammed the chassis hard, I knew she wasn't right, ran all the way around the track, made it to the turn just after the triples in the back left corner, and had a corner marshal pull it. Sucked, 4 laps in and I was in the lead. Thought it was the motor, till I swapped it and had the same results. Threw my other esc in, and she was happy again.

That track is a awesome layout, and wicked fun to drive, but she's hard on parts.

Originally Posted by Norse

Have you tried 1.6 1.1 rear pistons? Try the 1.6 1.1 rears with 30WT 1 dot rear springs.

If you go to Schelle's website they do have a tuning guide regarding what shock pistons, and oil weights work well per track situation.

Best,

Norse

Originally Posted by theclutch

Since I already ran the 6 holes x 1.0mm, it wouldn't make sense for me to increase the area for the oil to go through (using the formula 3.14 x r^2 to get the area of each hole). 4.71mm^2 vs 5.7mm^2 area. The car would bottom out even more.

But would you be able to provide a link to "Schelle's" website?

Originally Posted by littleZEN

I think Norse meant avids website but should apply to the schelle pistons as well:

http://www.avidrc.com/company/news/1...mm-Shocks.html

Originally Posted by Iketruman

I went to their website and facebook pages and cannot find the tuning guide?

Originally Posted by Norse

Your right DiscountRC has everything listed but when one put the new floating servo mount in your cart, the system replies "part currently out of stock"

absolute Hobbyz had them listed 10 days ago but I believe they pulled the floating servo off as they didn't receive it. However they do have the new 3mm chassis, 12* aluminum caster blocks, aluminum rear hubs, graphite front X Brace, etc.

On another tangent:

I believe you can run the regular 15 XB4 now without using the front top deck as well, as long as one incorporates the X-brace and secures all off the front multifflex screws. I believe I saw a pic from Bent whom was running no top decks on the 2mm chassis, but had CF inserts running on the topside of the multifflex braces. I guess you can adjust how may screws you can use to adjust the rigidity of the cf plates to the plastic multifflex braces in conjunction with the chassis to multifflex adjustments that exist. Pretty cool tunning option.
Not sure when these parts will be released but it looks like it may be easy enough to diy.

Have an excellent day and week fellow XB4 thread members.

Originally Posted by GregerL

Couldn't see your video so I can't judge from that. Norse has a point in that the 1.6 1.1 might be interesting since the Avid or Schelle pistons have less blow-by between the piston and the housing.

We have had great luck with the Schelle 2x1.6 piston, the hole area is almost exactly the same as 3x1.3 and you have a tighter fit. I would start out with the same oil you were using.

/G.

Originally Posted by rcgod

I find that small changes in rear droop really help the landings too. Increasing droop even by a couple mm will help those hard landings.