246LikesXray XB4 thread
03-20-2015, 07:51 PM
#7636
Fellas AMAIN has the eccentric bushing set back in stock.
03-20-2015, 08:08 PM
#7637
spoke to a fellow racer today and he told me he tried 50,000wt in the centre diff and didn't like it , then he tried
20,000wt and liked it a lot better on a dusty loose small-med size track with low grip.It might be personal preference but I'm definitely going to try 20,000wt this
sat at the local club day.
At the last meet it was my first time wheeling the 15 with shorty configuration and box clay set up ,new tyres every
heat ,but my diffs weights were 6-100-5 . It felt like the
buggy really lacked rear traction and wanted to step out
a lot.
I made changes every race and ended up with 30wt losi
front shock oil 25wt in the rear ,6-100-3 in the diffs, longer rear camber link.
The buggy was a lot better but couldn't push it hard i had to nurse it round a bit.
All the other xb4s were using saddles and they looked a lot more planted.
Will play with front kick up and rear anti squat settings this
sat ,might even try using the slipper see if that helps and
ill let you guys know what i think of dropping centre diff fluid down to 20,000.
Here is a vid of my 15 at my local track qualified second
ended up 2nd.
[says I'm running a schumacher but its not my buggy has white at the front and black at the back ,had a good dual for the first half of the race]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-E5tIjgGLtk
20,000wt and liked it a lot better on a dusty loose small-med size track with low grip.It might be personal preference but I'm definitely going to try 20,000wt this
sat at the local club day.
At the last meet it was my first time wheeling the 15 with shorty configuration and box clay set up ,new tyres every
heat ,but my diffs weights were 6-100-5 . It felt like the
buggy really lacked rear traction and wanted to step out
a lot.
I made changes every race and ended up with 30wt losi
front shock oil 25wt in the rear ,6-100-3 in the diffs, longer rear camber link.
The buggy was a lot better but couldn't push it hard i had to nurse it round a bit.
All the other xb4s were using saddles and they looked a lot more planted.
Will play with front kick up and rear anti squat settings this
sat ,might even try using the slipper see if that helps and
ill let you guys know what i think of dropping centre diff fluid down to 20,000.
Here is a vid of my 15 at my local track qualified second
ended up 2nd.
[says I'm running a schumacher but its not my buggy has white at the front and black at the back ,had a good dual for the first half of the race]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-E5tIjgGLtk
03-20-2015, 08:14 PM
#7638
I have only run 300,000 in the center, but I'm thinking I need to drop it to 200,000, maybe even 100K. Running 8K front 5K rear, but may try dropping those too. I want to try saddle, but I don't have the packs and it's hard to convince myself to spring for them when shorty is working, but people are saying it's better for low/medium. This track is considered medium by our standards, but I'm pretty sure it's low bite compared to most areas of the country.
03-21-2015, 01:24 AM
#7639
spoke to a fellow racer today and he told me he tried 50,000wt in the centre diff and didn't like it , then he tried
20,000wt and liked it a lot better on a dusty loose small-med size track with low grip.It might be personal preference but I'm definitely going to try 20,000wt this
sat at the local club day.
At the last meet it was my first time wheeling the 15 with shorty configuration and box clay set up ,new tyres every
heat ,but my diffs weights were 6-100-5 . It felt like the
buggy really lacked rear traction and wanted to step out
a lot.
I made changes every race and ended up with 30wt losi
front shock oil 25wt in the rear ,6-100-3 in the diffs, longer rear camber link.
The buggy was a lot better but couldn't push it hard i had to nurse it round a bit.
All the other xb4s were using saddles and they looked a lot more planted.
Will play with front kick up and rear anti squat settings this
sat ,might even try using the slipper see if that helps and
ill let you guys know what i think of dropping centre diff fluid down to 20,000.
Here is a vid of my 15 at my local track qualified second
ended up 2nd.
[says I'm running a schumacher but its not my buggy has white at the front and black at the back ,had a good dual for the first half of the race]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-E5tIjgGLtk
20,000wt and liked it a lot better on a dusty loose small-med size track with low grip.It might be personal preference but I'm definitely going to try 20,000wt this
sat at the local club day.
At the last meet it was my first time wheeling the 15 with shorty configuration and box clay set up ,new tyres every
heat ,but my diffs weights were 6-100-5 . It felt like the
buggy really lacked rear traction and wanted to step out
a lot.
I made changes every race and ended up with 30wt losi
front shock oil 25wt in the rear ,6-100-3 in the diffs, longer rear camber link.
The buggy was a lot better but couldn't push it hard i had to nurse it round a bit.
All the other xb4s were using saddles and they looked a lot more planted.
Will play with front kick up and rear anti squat settings this
sat ,might even try using the slipper see if that helps and
ill let you guys know what i think of dropping centre diff fluid down to 20,000.
Here is a vid of my 15 at my local track qualified second
ended up 2nd.
[says I'm running a schumacher but its not my buggy has white at the front and black at the back ,had a good dual for the first half of the race]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-E5tIjgGLtk
For loose dusty conditions we usually run F: 2x1.6 or 2x1.5 + 2x1.1 R: 2x1.7 or 2x1.6 + 2x1.1
Stock pistons are not ideal on a loose bumpy track.
Front: 500-550 cst Rear: 400-450 cst
Springs: Front 2 or 3 dot and Rear 1 or 2 dot
No limiters in shocks and if really loose we add droop as well by unscrewing the shock rod ends.
Swaybars 1.2mm or thinner.
If really loose we run no swaybars.
Shorter links, inside and down on the hinge pin inserts and ride height of around 22mm on a bumpy track.
For diffs in low grip conditions we run 3 / 500.000 / 2
Metal gears inside and hardened alu. pins in all diffs.
Shorty pack is awesome in low grip conditions
Other buggys looking better with saddles is down to a better setup
Bent
03-21-2015, 01:28 AM
#7640
I have only run 300,000 in the center, but I'm thinking I need to drop it to 200,000, maybe even 100K. Running 8K front 5K rear, but may try dropping those too. I want to try saddle, but I don't have the packs and it's hard to convince myself to spring for them when shorty is working, but people are saying it's better for low/medium. This track is considered medium by our standards, but I'm pretty sure it's low bite compared to most areas of the country.
Went to a club race today with 6-100-3 diff oils and shorty configuration ,tried dropping to 20,000 centre diff oil and
absolutely loved it! The 15 had so much turn in off power
and on power it felt really good.It was one of those times
when you say ,jeez i wish i tried that sooner.The track had
low traction and was dusty. After the meeting a friend passed me the radio to his 15 which had same setup as mine only changes were he had 30,000 centre diff oil and
saddle packs.Oh my god , it felt like it was on rails i had forgotten how dialled you can get a buggy to handle on a
slick low traction track you could get on and off the throttle
real quick and not worry bout the rear end coming out,throw it into corners with a lot of confidence something
my 15 was missing.
I would recommend dropping the centre diff wt to 20,000 to anyone who runs on a slick track 100 percent. Don't hesitate doing it!
03-21-2015, 01:58 AM
#7641
What pistons are you running ?
For loose dusty conditions we usually run F: 2x1.6 or 2x1.5 + 2x1.1 R: 2x1.7 or 2x1.6 + 2x1.1
Stock pistons are not ideal on a loose bumpy track.
Front: 500-550 cst Rear: 400-450 cst
Springs: Front 2 or 3 dot and Rear 1 or 2 dot
No limiters in shocks and if really loose we add droop as well by unscrewing the shock rod ends.
Swaybars 1.2mm or thinner.
If really loose we run no swaybars.
Shorter links, inside and down on the hinge pin inserts and ride height of around 22mm on a bumpy track.
For diffs in low grip conditions we run 3 / 500.000 / 2
Metal gears inside and hardened alu. pins in all diffs.
Shorty pack is awesome in low grip conditions
Other buggys looking better with saddles is down to a better setup
Bent
For loose dusty conditions we usually run F: 2x1.6 or 2x1.5 + 2x1.1 R: 2x1.7 or 2x1.6 + 2x1.1
Stock pistons are not ideal on a loose bumpy track.
Front: 500-550 cst Rear: 400-450 cst
Springs: Front 2 or 3 dot and Rear 1 or 2 dot
No limiters in shocks and if really loose we add droop as well by unscrewing the shock rod ends.
Swaybars 1.2mm or thinner.
If really loose we run no swaybars.
Shorter links, inside and down on the hinge pin inserts and ride height of around 22mm on a bumpy track.
For diffs in low grip conditions we run 3 / 500.000 / 2
Metal gears inside and hardened alu. pins in all diffs.
Shorty pack is awesome in low grip conditions
Other buggys looking better with saddles is down to a better setup
Bent
I did have the stock pistons in which is why the buggy felt better with 30wt in the front and 25wt in the rear losi oil
I must admit i did feel like going to F1.6 and R1.7 hole pistons with 550 -400 X-ray oil .
I had no limiters in the shocks and had adjusted the shock ends so when i lifted the buggy off the ground ,at the time
all four wheels left the ground my chassis was level.
1.2 mm sway bars
21 mm ride height
As for the saddles vs shorty,i felt like the shorty set up was more agile through the corners but you could easily get your self into more trouble where the saddle set up was way more predictable and straight out much more consistent .
I felt like i had to drive with a controlled aggression attitude with the shorty ,the saddle set up i could be just
as agressive as i liked with out making mistakes.
cheers again for the advice.
03-21-2015, 02:30 AM
#7642
Cheers for the advice mate
I did have the stock pistons in which is why the buggy felt better with 30wt in the front and 25wt in the rear losi oil
I must admit i did feel like going to F1.6 and R1.7 hole pistons with 550 -400 X-ray oil .
I had no limiters in the shocks and had adjusted the shock ends so when i lifted the buggy off the ground ,at the time
all four wheels left the ground my chassis was level.
1.2 mm sway bars
21 mm ride height
As for the saddles vs shorty,i felt like the shorty set up was more agile through the corners but you could easily get your self into more trouble where the saddle set up was way more predictable and straight out much more consistent .
I felt like i had to drive with a controlled aggression attitude with the shorty ,the saddle set up i could be just
as agressive as i liked with out making mistakes.
cheers again for the advice.
I did have the stock pistons in which is why the buggy felt better with 30wt in the front and 25wt in the rear losi oil
I must admit i did feel like going to F1.6 and R1.7 hole pistons with 550 -400 X-ray oil .
I had no limiters in the shocks and had adjusted the shock ends so when i lifted the buggy off the ground ,at the time
all four wheels left the ground my chassis was level.
1.2 mm sway bars
21 mm ride height
As for the saddles vs shorty,i felt like the shorty set up was more agile through the corners but you could easily get your self into more trouble where the saddle set up was way more predictable and straight out much more consistent .
I felt like i had to drive with a controlled aggression attitude with the shorty ,the saddle set up i could be just
as agressive as i liked with out making mistakes.
cheers again for the advice.
You are really going the wrong way with longer rear links, lower center diff weight, running stock pistons but with thinner oil etc etc.
Thinner center diff oil will have it break loose easier on braking into corners.
That's why a car with slipper feels more stable.
A thicker oil will put more power to the ground and make it more stable, especially under braking.
Same with the longer links which gives you less grip in the corners (less roll) and makes the car stay flatter. This in turn will make it very edgy when you're getting close to loosing grip.
Shorter links and moving the hinge pins inside and downwards will make the car roll more and be much more forgiving in loose grip conditions.
We've been running the center diff since July last year and have tested shorty and saddle packs setups with or without center diff back to back with several XB4's and the results are the same every time
Change your pistons, oil weight, add droop, shorten your links, change roll center and go UP on center diff weight and it will be much better
Bent
03-21-2015, 03:15 AM
#7643
I did try shorter rear link half way through the day and yes
it did give me more side grip so ill leave that where it is
but as for centre diff fluid 20,000 was so much better than 100,000 there is no way ill be going back up to that on my local slick track . Another local racer who is a National
champion went from 100,000 to 50,000 said it was heaps
better, then i found out 2 other blokes today went down from 100,000 to 30,000 and both said they liked it way more.
it did give me more side grip so ill leave that where it is
but as for centre diff fluid 20,000 was so much better than 100,000 there is no way ill be going back up to that on my local slick track . Another local racer who is a National
champion went from 100,000 to 50,000 said it was heaps
better, then i found out 2 other blokes today went down from 100,000 to 30,000 and both said they liked it way more.
03-21-2015, 03:16 AM
#7644
Spring stiffness does as well. I know when I tried to set up to the basic clay setup with the stock springs I had the same problem trying to get 18-19mm, but the setup calls for softer springs and that makes the difference. I have no problem getting 19mm with 2 dot/1 dot.
If you're looking at setups showing 18-19mm, they are most likely heavier saddle setups, and/or using softer springs which require a bit more preloading to keep the ride height.
If you're looking at setups showing 18-19mm, they are most likely heavier saddle setups, and/or using softer springs which require a bit more preloading to keep the ride height.
03-21-2015, 07:18 AM
#7646
03-21-2015, 07:33 AM
#7647
On the right is the Associated spring and on the left is the Xray 2 dot spring.
03-21-2015, 09:54 AM
#7648
Best
03-21-2015, 08:46 PM
#7649
I'm looking switch over from the b44.3 to buy the 2015 and trying to figure out what 12mm offsets to buy so I can use b4/b5/b44 rear wheels. Then I was thinking of just running the 14mm xray fronts since I have to ditch the 10mm b44.3 fronts anyway, but want to shoot for something that is highly available like losi or AE.
I suppose any 12mm wheel will "fit" but want to maintain kit width starting out.
I suppose any 12mm wheel will "fit" but want to maintain kit width starting out.
03-21-2015, 08:54 PM
#7650
I'm looking switch over from the b44.3 to buy the 2015 and trying to figure out what 12mm offsets to buy so I can use b4/b5/b44 rear wheels. Then I was thinking of just running the 14mm xray fronts since I have to ditch the 10mm b44.3 fronts anyway, but want to shoot for something that is highly available like losi or AE.
I suppose any 12mm wheel will "fit" but want to maintain kit width starting out.
I suppose any 12mm wheel will "fit" but want to maintain kit width starting out.