Graham11

iTrader: (22)

not sure you can compare a SCTE to an XB4... I mean one has a giant body cushioning it, the other is a crazy fast opened wheel car thats low to the ground, therefore when you hit something theres a good chance the hweel is taking a hit and sending that energy thru the entire drive train. 4wd buggy is definitely a drivers class, not that I am the best driver but I know that in 4wd buggy the pros rarely brake because they rarely crash, but a weekend warrior club racer is a whole different story so my point is everything is relative, SC are designed for beginners and can take the punishment, wheelers cant.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

you should be able to lock down the slipper and not have the gears fail. Sorry, but this special slipper setting stuff is a load of crap. If the slipper slips for more than a foot, it is too loose. Using a slipper to cover for a design flaw is kinda weak. And the scte is a piece of crap. Please dont compare the Xray to it. The SCTE claps out after one weekend. Xray just needs to make the steel gears and it will be good I am sure. And you guys wont have a slipper to save you once the center gear diff goes in.

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

Not everyone had their gears fail because of too tight a slipper. I know I didn't.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I saw it happen a few times locally. Guys trying to get more snap out of the cars to clear jumps. So they tighten the slipper a little and a short time later boom, gears gone. I am sure that the slipper is helping to save the drive terrain, but it should not be to this extent.

HeavyD99

iTrader: (15)

@ TV or @ Bentka, I just did a quick youtube search but didn't find anyone with a video showing how to successfully set an XB4 slipper...would either of you do one up and post it? Maybe one for astro, one for clay? Put this "set it right" thing to rest so those who see it understand how you guys do it? I have been in RC for 20+ years but I still realize that there's always something new to learn or a trick I can pick up.

BentKa

Please stop your whining, open your mind, sit down and listen…….just maybe you will actually learn something for once.

Slipper setting is and always has been a critical setting/adjustment on any 1/10 buggy.

Period !

I'm posting a video now from the guys at TLR……just TRY to pay attention to the first 4 minutes where they talk about how important the correct slipper setting is and how to obtain it.

I've been doing this for the last 25 years or so every time we arrive at a new track as part of the basic setup.

Bent

BentKa

Here you go:

+ YouTube Video

And for every time some of the guys here start whining about setting your slipper correctly being a "fanboi" comment I will post this as a response

Bent

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

ok fine... But the center gear diff wont have a slipper to protect the ring/pinion, right? You could argue the tuning aspects of a slipper all day. In the old days, we used them like traction control. And some guys still do. Some guys use it to help keep from wheeling when getting on the gas hard coming out of a turn in 2wd. And yeah, it can be used to reduce the wear and tear on the drive-line. But, what about the center gear diff? Are you going to post slipper videos about that too?

TV

iTrader: (1)

I'm not able to post a video, but I think it's pretty easy to explain over text. I set mine just like a 2wd slipper, so I hold down both rear tires with the radio in my hand, and punch the throttle. The front tire should come off the ground two or three inches, and you should hear the slipper whine plenty.

If you can't hear the slipper whine when you punch it, and the car hits you in the face, it's too tight. If the car is straining to lift the front tires while the slipper is crying, it's too loose. There's really no magic to it or anything, there aren't any master slipper setters, you just want to be in between those two extremes. Also, if you have the 2013 car with the black slipper pads, do yourself a favor and get the gold SLS pads. The slipper is much more tunable with the new pads.

BentKa

You just want to argue or are you genuinely asking because you want to learn ?

A normal planetary diff like those used in R/C cars will always send the excess power/torque the way of least resistance…….so yes the center diff will contribute in taking the worst load off the drivetrain in many ways just like the slipper.

The thicker the fluid or grease used……the less "slipping" you will have and the closer you will be to a "locked" 50/50 torque distribution.

A thicker fluid/grease will limit the diffs ability to send excess torque the way of least resistance and with that increase the stress on the drivetrain.

A correctly set slipper will also smoothen out power delivery and not bind up the drivetrain letting you go on the throttle harder and more consistent on landing.

A correctly set slipper WILL make you faster, smoother and more consistent.

Bent

randy0025

iTrader: (11)

Bent you got to take in consideration that tracks are different here in the US then over there. I can say that my slipper is set 100% right and have tried 2 different setting having both of them blow the gears. I will say that i have found it happen at some tracks and NOT at others. what I have found is that it seems to happen at tracks that have a Fine Sand (like beach sand) and that it works its way into the diff case. now I dont just check the slipper but I open the diff case up and blow it out so that there isnt any real find sand in it. not trying to start a agreement but maybe from what I have seen is that the tracks surface might be a factor that no one has talked about yet. Ever time I have had a gear go bad it has been at the same 2 tracks while at the other 3 to 4 tracks I have had 0 issues. also when they do go bad there has always been a sand/plastic/grease compound in the diff. I hope this helps.

BentKa

What you have to understand is that there are no "set in stone" slipper setting that will work for every track.
We race in Europe (7 different countries so far this year and more to come) and no two tracks are the same.

So far this year we have raced on:
-Loamy and blown out dirt (some with concrete and wooden sections)
-Outdoor clay
-Indoor clay
-Outdoor astro turf
-Indoor carpet with pin tires
-Indoor carpet with slicks and additives

For every surface I make sure the slipper is set correctly according to available grip/traction.

I stand out on the track on different sections, listen to the buggy and watch how it behaves on landing, braking and acceleration.

I often tell her to come in to just give it half a turn looser or tighter and then again we might go 1-1 1/2 turns off our preferred basic setting.

If you keep stripping gears make sure you swap out the diff bevel gear as well (the 35T gear) if you have blown several pinions. It might not look worn to the naked eye but it WILL speed up the wear on your new pinion gear.
Do yourself a favor and swap both out for new and pay extra attention to your slipper settings and I will guarantee you you will have no more problems
And start with the slipper slightly on the loose side and tighten it a little at a time if you are unsure

Your problems with sand/dust entering your diffs indicates you need to swap out for some fresh gaskets or o-rings and use a better grease for the o-rings.

This will definitely help on your problem.

Bent

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

lol, I am not trying to troll you. I run on high bite. So wheel spin will be minimal. We currently run clay slicks with no sauce. And I know that the center gear diff transfers power front to back. But unless the slipper is decoupled like the sc10 4x4, it is not really like a center diff. Tekno came out with a slipperential a while back. Seemed like a good idea to save the drive terrain and provide power transfer from the front and rear wheels. But the idea never caught on. My thinking is that the center diff on high bite will heighten the issues with the ring/pinion. I suspect the ring/pinion gear issues are much less on lower bite tracks. I recently moved from low bite tracks to high bite, and the wear and tear on my drive terrain has greatly increased. All that I am getting at is...The steel ring and pinion might make for great option parts, if they are release at the same time as the 2015 car. Just like the slipper vs center diff is an option, stronger ring and pinion gears should be an option as well. The cactus classic has a 13.5 4wd buggy class. And I am sure the lighter ring/pinion gears will be wanted. Plus a 13.5 is not overly powerful and probably wont blow them up. But a 6.5 on high bite will be more likely to. But blaming the drivers for not having the right slipper setting, for blown gears, is a little on the weak side. IMO, the slipper setting arguments are just a band-aid fix.

Wease

iTrader: (77)

I would hate to see you guys with diff/slipper dyslexia problems running a 4wd model that uses ball diffs . I had umpteen B44 models before my XB4s, and if you over-tightened that slipper even a little, you'd shred a ball diff within the first 3 hot laps, especially when you land a jump on power. I run on a high bite clay track where we use slicks in the winter as well. I agree that high bite wears on a drive-train twice as fast as loose. I know when we run mod 2wd buggy, I'm rebuilding my ball diff once per month. Despite this, I still have yet to destroy my XB4 gears after a full season of racing every weekend.

joeymdz

iTrader: (13)

fanboi fanboi fanboi fanboi!!! hahaha I couldn't help it

I adjust my slippers all the time due to all the surfaces I race on. Plus the change of track conditions is a huge factor. I just watched the video and I learned something new about the car being to squirly from the down sides. Thank you Bent for posting.

I have 2 xb4's and 1 xb4/2... and if my son who races his in novice has zero issues other than breaking wing mounts and wings I think im doing something right

PS~ I run a 6.5 on a tight carpet indoor track then then following weekend race outdoors on straight loam... always adjusting the slipper. No issues