Xray XB4 thread
#5326
Tech Rookie
Hello all.
I am getting back into the RC hobby, I recently purchased 2 brand new Xray XB4 - 2014 Specs...
I built both chassis, and according to the instructions, there are suppose to be two mount points on the chassis for flange screws used to secure battery wires, these mount points do not exist. wondering if by chance I got kits from a bad batch? Or does the 2014 spec not have these mount points?
Also, any suggestions for Diffoil weights for a medium traction clay track?
10k/7k in the diff seems a little high?
One more question - what's a good starting point for the slipper spring? I haven't ran the car yet, but to start I bottomed the spring and backed off two complete turns, Wondering if I'm even in the ballpark to make final adjustments?
thanks
I am getting back into the RC hobby, I recently purchased 2 brand new Xray XB4 - 2014 Specs...
I built both chassis, and according to the instructions, there are suppose to be two mount points on the chassis for flange screws used to secure battery wires, these mount points do not exist. wondering if by chance I got kits from a bad batch? Or does the 2014 spec not have these mount points?
Also, any suggestions for Diffoil weights for a medium traction clay track?
10k/7k in the diff seems a little high?
One more question - what's a good starting point for the slipper spring? I haven't ran the car yet, but to start I bottomed the spring and backed off two complete turns, Wondering if I'm even in the ballpark to make final adjustments?
thanks
#5327
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
What a lot of rubbish. If you run the XB4 on a rough track and you are not a great driver you will have issues with it. When I got the car I took it to the seller here, he said before I started that you will need spare drive pinions and the crown as our track just wears through them after a few races. He was 100% correct. The great drivers that never crash don't seem to have the same issue but guess what not everyone and certainly not me is a great driver. These diffs are for clean tracks, good drivers and 6.5+ motors.
My gripe is why make the rest of the car like a tank and leave these two parts crap? just seems weird. Optional stronger parts for those of us with less skill behind the controller should have been released at day 1.
Proky
My gripe is why make the rest of the car like a tank and leave these two parts crap? just seems weird. Optional stronger parts for those of us with less skill behind the controller should have been released at day 1.
Proky
#5329
Jimmy
#5330
Tech Master
iTrader: (40)
Most intermediate drivers may not have the ability to make the big jumps as smooth as the more experienced drivers so i think we tend to make our slippers a lil bit tighter in order to gain more power / speed to make the car struggle to make the distance to clear jumps cause we are not on the same lines as the fast guys hence the reason for stripping gears , just my 2 cents but i know for instance that being on throttle on the landing caused my internal gears to fail most other complained about stripping front ring and pinion but cause i was on throttle on landing ramps caused my internal rear diff gears to strip, i dont run on high grip clay track but medium to loose dirt tracks
Ive put nt1 gears and made my slipper looser and stopped being on throttle and it seems to be much better
hope this helps fellow medium skilled drivers
Ive put nt1 gears and made my slipper looser and stopped being on throttle and it seems to be much better
hope this helps fellow medium skilled drivers
#5331
What Proky is saying is true. I've had my car for a full season and have had no problems with the drive train at all. However, it is true that the diffs are a weak link in an otherwise strong package. I've lost count of the number of times I've heard XB4's destroying their gearboxes. Mine is still OK, but I"m sure my time is coming.
Jimmy
Jimmy
Jim you could not have heard of this happening!! Apparently it has only happened to 12 people on the planet!
#5332
Mine is now fine I only started commenting because people asked about it and thought they deserved the truth not the XB4 lovers crap answers.
#5333
Tech Elite
iTrader: (43)
Guess what the xb4 sweeped the podium in invite and open classes :P. In 6 weekends of racing the big track, mine ate 2 front bevel gears, 1 front axle, 1 spur gear (delrin thin one), 1 rear axle, rear upright, 1 front bulkhead hehehe. The cars still beat all the d413s, tlrs and other riff raff :P.
#5335
I heard that the 12 who are having problems here must mean everyone running the xb4 is gonna have huuuuuuuuuge problems with their diffs exploding all over the place.
Keep uncovering the truth man, I believe ya...
#5337
What Proky is saying is true. I've had my car for a full season and have had no problems with the drive train at all. However, it is true that the diffs are a weak link in an otherwise strong package. I've lost count of the number of times I've heard XB4's destroying their gearboxes. Mine is still OK, but I"m sure my time is coming.
Jimmy
Jimmy
Could it not be as simple as the fact that you might be doing something right setting up your XB4
Stop worrying and enjoy the racing and when the pinion is finally worn out don't shim it.....replace it.......and race for another season
Bent
#5338
Most intermediate drivers may not have the ability to make the big jumps as smooth as the more experienced drivers so i think we tend to make our slippers a lil bit tighter in order to gain more power / speed to make the car struggle to make the distance to clear jumps cause we are not on the same lines as the fast guys hence the reason for stripping gears , just my 2 cents but i know for instance that being on throttle on the landing caused my internal gears to fail most other complained about stripping front ring and pinion but cause i was on throttle on landing ramps caused my internal rear diff gears to strip, i dont run on high grip clay track but medium to loose dirt tracks
Ive put nt1 gears and made my slipper looser and stopped being on throttle and it seems to be much better
hope this helps fellow medium skilled drivers
Ive put nt1 gears and made my slipper looser and stopped being on throttle and it seems to be much better
hope this helps fellow medium skilled drivers
But instead of tightening their slippers people should instead practice their racing line. A correctly set slipper will also make the car a lot easier to handle even with low turn motors. But unfortunately most people start in the wrong end.......speed first.....then try to negotiate the jumps and turns etc.
More than often on certain tracks we go up in turns for the motor to gain traction and consistency and lower the lap times
But of course it's easier to blame a "weak diff" rather than admitting to their own shortcomings.
I've been doing this for 34 years + and I'm still learning
Bent
#5339
Tech Initiate
Hello all.
I am getting back into the RC hobby, I recently purchased 2 brand new Xray XB4 - 2014 Specs...
I built both chassis, and according to the instructions, there are suppose to be two mount points on the chassis for flange screws used to secure battery wires, these mount points do not exist. wondering if by chance I got kits from a bad batch? Or does the 2014 spec not have these mount points?
Also, any suggestions for Diffoil weights for a medium traction clay track?
10k/7k in the diff seems a little high?
One more question - what's a good starting point for the slipper spring? I haven't ran the car yet, but to start I bottomed the spring and backed off two complete turns, Wondering if I'm even in the ballpark to make final adjustments?
thanks
I am getting back into the RC hobby, I recently purchased 2 brand new Xray XB4 - 2014 Specs...
I built both chassis, and according to the instructions, there are suppose to be two mount points on the chassis for flange screws used to secure battery wires, these mount points do not exist. wondering if by chance I got kits from a bad batch? Or does the 2014 spec not have these mount points?
Also, any suggestions for Diffoil weights for a medium traction clay track?
10k/7k in the diff seems a little high?
One more question - what's a good starting point for the slipper spring? I haven't ran the car yet, but to start I bottomed the spring and backed off two complete turns, Wondering if I'm even in the ballpark to make final adjustments?
thanks
As for the slipper, start with something like 6.3mm or more and adjust at the track to get it right. You'd rather have it a bit on the loose end and adjust then have it to tight.
As the last couple of pages have been a good indication of, setting it too hard will cause the diff bevel and crown gears to wear out prematurely.
#5340
Tech Rookie
Those flanges have been removed from the newest versions of the chassis. You don't really need them if you plan out your cables properly .
As for the slipper, start with something like 6.3mm or more and adjust at the track to get it right. You'd rather have it a bit on the loose end and adjust then have it to tight.
As the last couple of pages have been a good indication of, setting it too hard will cause the diff bevel and crown gears to wear out prematurely.
As for the slipper, start with something like 6.3mm or more and adjust at the track to get it right. You'd rather have it a bit on the loose end and adjust then have it to tight.
As the last couple of pages have been a good indication of, setting it too hard will cause the diff bevel and crown gears to wear out prematurely.
Yes, the diff discussion reminds me of the XB808 (nitro)...a lot of people were destroying the rear bearing in the bulkhead, I never had that problem, but I always ran light weight oil in that car as well