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Old 01-04-2013, 08:07 PM
  #976  
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I finally got everything ready to go. Went to the track after work and ran 2 packs. Everything worked get. Started with my own setup and it drives pretty well. It is still a touch twitchy but that should be fixed with a few changes. Ran the slipper at 6.3mm with no diff issues. I have the metal gears but have not installed them yet. Running the TeamSR towers as well. No issues at all so far. It is the best buggy I've driven. It will have its first race in the morning.
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:30 PM
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I'm working on getting a bunch of aluminum towers made like the prototype ones I have on my car made and anodized. I have 16 sets available but WITHOUT anodizing that I can sell to whoever wants a stronger tower without having to wait. It's 1/8" 6061 aluminum, so just slightly thicker than stock and very strong. Just send me a PM and I can get you hooked up for about half the price of the TeamSR towers.

The holes cutouts are the same as the stock towers, should be a perfect fit.


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Old 01-04-2013, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by RShockley
I finally got everything ready to go. Went to the track after work and ran 2 packs. Everything worked get. Started with my own setup and it drives pretty well. It is still a touch twitchy but that should be fixed with a few changes. Ran the slipper at 6.3mm with no diff issues. I have the metal gears but have not installed them yet. Running the TeamSR towers as well. No issues at all so far. It is the best buggy I've driven. It will have its first race in the morning.
You lucky dog..... racing at Mikes that is. The car is golden.
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Tim Garland
Forget the book settings and make sure you can slip it by hand.
That is the direction I am leaning. Thanks!

In other news, er, questions:

1 - When you attach the front and rear assemblies to the chassis there are two M3×14 button head screws that do not engage the chassis plate. What purpose do these screws serve? They do not attach anything. They just screw into the bottom of the diff case.

2 - I'm a bit surprised that Xray didn't mold the rear diff case and wing mounts into one unit. It would have been fewer parts and the extra strength of the two parts being one might help with the tower strength issue.

3 - The manual has you install all of the M3×10 countersunk screws in the bottom of the chassis. Eight of these screws are part of the "Multiflex" system. I'm trying to build the kit setup as a benchmark so I assumed (from other settings they have chosen) that "medium" would be the right choice. Unfortunately, there is no kit setup sheet, just a blank one. How many screws are you all going with?

4 - Has anyone commissioned a 3M plastic sticky sheet deal to cover the metal part of the chassis and to keep dirt out of the screw holes? I should have made a template before I started putting it together. That said, I'd be willing to buy pre-made ones.

Thanks!
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by BRSracing
B44.2
B4.1 WC

Instead of getting all sensitive about my statements with the issues with the cars help out and prove me wrong with:
A: where people can get xray parts in stock to fix the broken ones. Nobody here at our local track has parts and the dealers say parts are not available in stock yet. And when I say parts I mean in the states not on Ebay etc form Hong Kong.
B: provide customer service information that is fixing the cars.
Maybe I am missing something, but my efforts to help my friends get their stuff back on the track have come up empty.
yes my apologies, not sure what I was all worked up about last night. But... my dealer has parts and I'm an old vet so the no parts thing doesn't bother me. But really, put your hands on one, drive it.
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:52 PM
  #981  
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Originally Posted by Xyzzy
That is the direction I am leaning. Thanks!

In other news, er, questions:

1 - When you attach the front and rear assemblies to the chassis there are two M3×14 button head screws that do not engage the chassis plate. What purpose do these screws serve? They do not attach anything. They just screw into the bottom of the diff case.

2 - I'm a bit surprised that Xray didn't mold the rear diff case and wing mounts into one unit. It would have been fewer parts and the extra strength of the two parts being one might help with the tower strength issue.

3 - The manual has you install all of the M3×10 countersunk screws in the bottom of the chassis. Eight of these screws are part of the "Multiflex" system. I'm trying to build the kit setup as a benchmark so I assumed (from other settings they have chosen) that "medium" would be the right choice. Unfortunately, there is no kit setup sheet, just a blank one. How many screws are you all going with?

4 - Has anyone commissioned a 3M plastic sticky sheet deal to cover the metal part of the chassis and to keep dirt out of the screw holes? I should have made a template before I started putting it together. That said, I'd be willing to buy pre-made ones.

Thanks!
Yours was blank? Mine came with a double sided sheet. On side basic carpet, the other basic clay. Check their website. You can download them in PDF. For my set up, eight of the screws were left out. Also for anyone building it, don't go by the 1:1 shots of turnbucles. They are way off.
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Old 01-05-2013, 04:41 AM
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Maybe we have a JQ problem? The team are testing XB4 prototype and are very happy with it. But when they start the production, there is a material differanse than the prototype.
They should have made several kits with the production material and tested it themselves or sent out testkits before they decided quality of the material.

The shocktower should have two more screws just under the ballinks mounted to the diffcase. Just like the XB9. Then the breakingpoint would not be so narrow. Now it`s concentrated just above the diffcase and the breakingpoint is small and too high. If You replace the towers with stronger material You just move the problem to the diffcase. Of course it`s gonna hold a little better, but not good enough. The case breaks anyway.

The small diffgears of plastic is shit. And those who claim they feel difference between plastic or steel I dare to take a blindtest :-).
I ran with plastic and without and there is no difference. The reason Xray made them in plastic I guess is that they were so focused on the weight and didnt concider other solutions. And they may have tested gears in plastic with another quality then the production batch.

Measuring the slipper x.xx mm is just rubbish. The spring will always be different from batch to batch and temprature will influence the hardness. It will also loosen its tension after a while and must be adjusted from time to time.
You cannot compare one with the other. It is only for basic setup and nothing more.

But its a fxxxxx good car to drive :-)
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Old 01-05-2013, 08:39 AM
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Anyone know we're to find a xra36200 front bulkhead in stock in the us thx
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:49 AM
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Default stupid shock question...page 28

Page 28...I assume the e clip goes on the first one next to the edge...??? The pic makes it look like it goes on the second one...someone please point me in the right direction (or slit that is).
Thanks for the help!
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:57 AM
  #985  
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Originally Posted by scottreida
Page 28...I assume the e clip goes on the first one next to the edge...??? The pic makes it look like it goes on the second one...someone please point me in the right direction (or slit that is).
Thanks for the help!
First the lower e clip, slide the piston on, now the top e clip.
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Old 01-05-2013, 11:09 AM
  #986  
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Default Thanks for the help :D

Ha! Thanks for the response. I told you it was a stupid question. For some reason...I took it to mean that as the order (e clip then the other piece)...not one on each side. Wow...I get three stupid questions per day...two to go!

Thanks again, Scott
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Old 01-05-2013, 11:09 AM
  #987  
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Originally Posted by asc6000
yes my apologies, not sure what I was all worked up about last night. But... my dealer has parts and I'm an old vet so the no parts thing doesn't bother me. But really, put your hands on one, drive it.
No problem, must have been in the air I was worked up over getting my race buddies back on the track too. Once they are going again I will be running some laps on it. We found some parts online so we should be racing again next week.
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Old 01-05-2013, 11:53 AM
  #988  
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Originally Posted by Xyzzy
1 - When you attach the front and rear assemblies to the chassis there are two M3×14 button head screws that do not engage the chassis plate. What purpose do these screws serve? They do not attach anything. They just screw into the bottom of the diff case.

2 - I'm a bit surprised that Xray didn't mold the rear diff case and wing mounts into one unit. It would have been fewer parts and the extra strength of the two parts being one might help with the tower strength issue.

3 - The manual has you install all of the M3×10 countersunk screws in the bottom of the chassis. Eight of these screws are part of the "Multiflex" system. I'm trying to build the kit setup as a benchmark so I assumed (from other settings they have chosen) that "medium" would be the right choice. Unfortunately, there is no kit setup sheet, just a blank one. How many screws are you all going with?

4 - Has anyone commissioned a 3M plastic sticky sheet deal to cover the metal part of the chassis and to keep dirt out of the screw holes? I should have made a template before I started putting it together. That said, I'd be willing to buy pre-made ones.
Thanks!
1 those two 3x14's go through the lower diff case and into the upper diff case to secure them together as one unit, the 4 3x10's secure the diff assembly to the chassis, quite nice when you think about it, those two screws allow you to build a complete gearbox out of the car.
2 that would be worse imo
3 tuning screws 4 down the middle and 4 corners (to prevent a bonehead mechanic I sharpied red on the chassis around the tuning holes). The clay setup they provided had none of the screws in, the carpet setup had the four down the middle. For what ever reason I chose to use the four corners, subjectively "feels" torsionally slighty stiffer than my ZX5FS2 (for sale and getting cheaper by the day).
4 don't know, don't use em
You didn't mention the 2 screws that don't touch the chassis that go into the battery strap hold downs, thats so it's seperate from the chassis flex, apparently not neccessary in the front.
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Old 01-05-2013, 02:10 PM
  #989  
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Any have a spare front bulkhead for sale?
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Old 01-05-2013, 05:40 PM
  #990  
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Thanks TeamSR!!!! Got my XB4 4mmCF shock towers and Battery Straps today!
Very good quality, line up perfect, not cheap, but I think they will solve the broken shock tower @ the camber link ball stud problems!!!!! Givem a try guys!

Xray XB4 thread-2013-01-05_19.06.43.jpg

Xray XB4 thread-2013-01-05_18.51.07.jpg

Xray XB4 thread-2013-01-05_18.50.24.jpg
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