Xray XB4 thread
#976
Tech Addict
iTrader: (7)
I finally got everything ready to go. Went to the track after work and ran 2 packs. Everything worked get. Started with my own setup and it drives pretty well. It is still a touch twitchy but that should be fixed with a few changes. Ran the slipper at 6.3mm with no diff issues. I have the metal gears but have not installed them yet. Running the TeamSR towers as well. No issues at all so far. It is the best buggy I've driven. It will have its first race in the morning.
#977
Tech Elite
iTrader: (43)
I'm working on getting a bunch of aluminum towers made like the prototype ones I have on my car made and anodized. I have 16 sets available but WITHOUT anodizing that I can sell to whoever wants a stronger tower without having to wait. It's 1/8" 6061 aluminum, so just slightly thicker than stock and very strong. Just send me a PM and I can get you hooked up for about half the price of the TeamSR towers.
The holes cutouts are the same as the stock towers, should be a perfect fit.
The holes cutouts are the same as the stock towers, should be a perfect fit.
#978
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
I finally got everything ready to go. Went to the track after work and ran 2 packs. Everything worked get. Started with my own setup and it drives pretty well. It is still a touch twitchy but that should be fixed with a few changes. Ran the slipper at 6.3mm with no diff issues. I have the metal gears but have not installed them yet. Running the TeamSR towers as well. No issues at all so far. It is the best buggy I've driven. It will have its first race in the morning.
#979
Tech Regular
iTrader: (32)
That is the direction I am leaning. Thanks!
In other news, er, questions:
1 - When you attach the front and rear assemblies to the chassis there are two M3×14 button head screws that do not engage the chassis plate. What purpose do these screws serve? They do not attach anything. They just screw into the bottom of the diff case.
2 - I'm a bit surprised that Xray didn't mold the rear diff case and wing mounts into one unit. It would have been fewer parts and the extra strength of the two parts being one might help with the tower strength issue.
3 - The manual has you install all of the M3×10 countersunk screws in the bottom of the chassis. Eight of these screws are part of the "Multiflex" system. I'm trying to build the kit setup as a benchmark so I assumed (from other settings they have chosen) that "medium" would be the right choice. Unfortunately, there is no kit setup sheet, just a blank one. How many screws are you all going with?
4 - Has anyone commissioned a 3M plastic sticky sheet deal to cover the metal part of the chassis and to keep dirt out of the screw holes? I should have made a template before I started putting it together. That said, I'd be willing to buy pre-made ones.
Thanks!
In other news, er, questions:
1 - When you attach the front and rear assemblies to the chassis there are two M3×14 button head screws that do not engage the chassis plate. What purpose do these screws serve? They do not attach anything. They just screw into the bottom of the diff case.
2 - I'm a bit surprised that Xray didn't mold the rear diff case and wing mounts into one unit. It would have been fewer parts and the extra strength of the two parts being one might help with the tower strength issue.
3 - The manual has you install all of the M3×10 countersunk screws in the bottom of the chassis. Eight of these screws are part of the "Multiflex" system. I'm trying to build the kit setup as a benchmark so I assumed (from other settings they have chosen) that "medium" would be the right choice. Unfortunately, there is no kit setup sheet, just a blank one. How many screws are you all going with?
4 - Has anyone commissioned a 3M plastic sticky sheet deal to cover the metal part of the chassis and to keep dirt out of the screw holes? I should have made a template before I started putting it together. That said, I'd be willing to buy pre-made ones.
Thanks!
#980
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
B44.2
B4.1 WC
Instead of getting all sensitive about my statements with the issues with the cars help out and prove me wrong with:
A: where people can get xray parts in stock to fix the broken ones. Nobody here at our local track has parts and the dealers say parts are not available in stock yet. And when I say parts I mean in the states not on Ebay etc form Hong Kong.
B: provide customer service information that is fixing the cars.
Maybe I am missing something, but my efforts to help my friends get their stuff back on the track have come up empty.
B4.1 WC
Instead of getting all sensitive about my statements with the issues with the cars help out and prove me wrong with:
A: where people can get xray parts in stock to fix the broken ones. Nobody here at our local track has parts and the dealers say parts are not available in stock yet. And when I say parts I mean in the states not on Ebay etc form Hong Kong.
B: provide customer service information that is fixing the cars.
Maybe I am missing something, but my efforts to help my friends get their stuff back on the track have come up empty.
#981
That is the direction I am leaning. Thanks!
In other news, er, questions:
1 - When you attach the front and rear assemblies to the chassis there are two M3×14 button head screws that do not engage the chassis plate. What purpose do these screws serve? They do not attach anything. They just screw into the bottom of the diff case.
2 - I'm a bit surprised that Xray didn't mold the rear diff case and wing mounts into one unit. It would have been fewer parts and the extra strength of the two parts being one might help with the tower strength issue.
3 - The manual has you install all of the M3×10 countersunk screws in the bottom of the chassis. Eight of these screws are part of the "Multiflex" system. I'm trying to build the kit setup as a benchmark so I assumed (from other settings they have chosen) that "medium" would be the right choice. Unfortunately, there is no kit setup sheet, just a blank one. How many screws are you all going with?
4 - Has anyone commissioned a 3M plastic sticky sheet deal to cover the metal part of the chassis and to keep dirt out of the screw holes? I should have made a template before I started putting it together. That said, I'd be willing to buy pre-made ones.
Thanks!
In other news, er, questions:
1 - When you attach the front and rear assemblies to the chassis there are two M3×14 button head screws that do not engage the chassis plate. What purpose do these screws serve? They do not attach anything. They just screw into the bottom of the diff case.
2 - I'm a bit surprised that Xray didn't mold the rear diff case and wing mounts into one unit. It would have been fewer parts and the extra strength of the two parts being one might help with the tower strength issue.
3 - The manual has you install all of the M3×10 countersunk screws in the bottom of the chassis. Eight of these screws are part of the "Multiflex" system. I'm trying to build the kit setup as a benchmark so I assumed (from other settings they have chosen) that "medium" would be the right choice. Unfortunately, there is no kit setup sheet, just a blank one. How many screws are you all going with?
4 - Has anyone commissioned a 3M plastic sticky sheet deal to cover the metal part of the chassis and to keep dirt out of the screw holes? I should have made a template before I started putting it together. That said, I'd be willing to buy pre-made ones.
Thanks!
#982
Tech Rookie
Maybe we have a JQ problem? The team are testing XB4 prototype and are very happy with it. But when they start the production, there is a material differanse than the prototype.
They should have made several kits with the production material and tested it themselves or sent out testkits before they decided quality of the material.
The shocktower should have two more screws just under the ballinks mounted to the diffcase. Just like the XB9. Then the breakingpoint would not be so narrow. Now it`s concentrated just above the diffcase and the breakingpoint is small and too high. If You replace the towers with stronger material You just move the problem to the diffcase. Of course it`s gonna hold a little better, but not good enough. The case breaks anyway.
The small diffgears of plastic is shit. And those who claim they feel difference between plastic or steel I dare to take a blindtest :-).
I ran with plastic and without and there is no difference. The reason Xray made them in plastic I guess is that they were so focused on the weight and didnt concider other solutions. And they may have tested gears in plastic with another quality then the production batch.
Measuring the slipper x.xx mm is just rubbish. The spring will always be different from batch to batch and temprature will influence the hardness. It will also loosen its tension after a while and must be adjusted from time to time.
You cannot compare one with the other. It is only for basic setup and nothing more.
But its a fxxxxx good car to drive :-)
They should have made several kits with the production material and tested it themselves or sent out testkits before they decided quality of the material.
The shocktower should have two more screws just under the ballinks mounted to the diffcase. Just like the XB9. Then the breakingpoint would not be so narrow. Now it`s concentrated just above the diffcase and the breakingpoint is small and too high. If You replace the towers with stronger material You just move the problem to the diffcase. Of course it`s gonna hold a little better, but not good enough. The case breaks anyway.
The small diffgears of plastic is shit. And those who claim they feel difference between plastic or steel I dare to take a blindtest :-).
I ran with plastic and without and there is no difference. The reason Xray made them in plastic I guess is that they were so focused on the weight and didnt concider other solutions. And they may have tested gears in plastic with another quality then the production batch.
Measuring the slipper x.xx mm is just rubbish. The spring will always be different from batch to batch and temprature will influence the hardness. It will also loosen its tension after a while and must be adjusted from time to time.
You cannot compare one with the other. It is only for basic setup and nothing more.
But its a fxxxxx good car to drive :-)
#985
First the lower e clip, slide the piston on, now the top e clip.
#986
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (5)
Thanks for the help :D
Ha! Thanks for the response. I told you it was a stupid question. For some reason...I took it to mean that as the order (e clip then the other piece)...not one on each side. Wow...I get three stupid questions per day...two to go!
Thanks again, Scott
Thanks again, Scott
#988
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
1 - When you attach the front and rear assemblies to the chassis there are two M3×14 button head screws that do not engage the chassis plate. What purpose do these screws serve? They do not attach anything. They just screw into the bottom of the diff case.
2 - I'm a bit surprised that Xray didn't mold the rear diff case and wing mounts into one unit. It would have been fewer parts and the extra strength of the two parts being one might help with the tower strength issue.
3 - The manual has you install all of the M3×10 countersunk screws in the bottom of the chassis. Eight of these screws are part of the "Multiflex" system. I'm trying to build the kit setup as a benchmark so I assumed (from other settings they have chosen) that "medium" would be the right choice. Unfortunately, there is no kit setup sheet, just a blank one. How many screws are you all going with?
4 - Has anyone commissioned a 3M plastic sticky sheet deal to cover the metal part of the chassis and to keep dirt out of the screw holes? I should have made a template before I started putting it together. That said, I'd be willing to buy pre-made ones.
Thanks!
2 - I'm a bit surprised that Xray didn't mold the rear diff case and wing mounts into one unit. It would have been fewer parts and the extra strength of the two parts being one might help with the tower strength issue.
3 - The manual has you install all of the M3×10 countersunk screws in the bottom of the chassis. Eight of these screws are part of the "Multiflex" system. I'm trying to build the kit setup as a benchmark so I assumed (from other settings they have chosen) that "medium" would be the right choice. Unfortunately, there is no kit setup sheet, just a blank one. How many screws are you all going with?
4 - Has anyone commissioned a 3M plastic sticky sheet deal to cover the metal part of the chassis and to keep dirt out of the screw holes? I should have made a template before I started putting it together. That said, I'd be willing to buy pre-made ones.
Thanks!
2 that would be worse imo
3 tuning screws 4 down the middle and 4 corners (to prevent a bonehead mechanic I sharpied red on the chassis around the tuning holes). The clay setup they provided had none of the screws in, the carpet setup had the four down the middle. For what ever reason I chose to use the four corners, subjectively "feels" torsionally slighty stiffer than my ZX5FS2 (for sale and getting cheaper by the day).
4 don't know, don't use em
You didn't mention the 2 screws that don't touch the chassis that go into the battery strap hold downs, thats so it's seperate from the chassis flex, apparently not neccessary in the front.
#989
Any have a spare front bulkhead for sale?
#990