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Old 01-18-2013, 09:54 AM   #1291
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Xray has posted their solutions to the issues people have had. Scroll to the bottom.
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/new...rade%20Package
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Old 01-18-2013, 10:23 AM   #1292
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Originally Posted by Odin544 View Post
Xray has posted their solutions to the issues people have had. Scroll to the bottom.
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/new...rade%20Package
I can admit I didn't grease mine and sure enough it popped out. I remember forgetting to grease it during the build. Funny how following instructions seems to solve most issues...

I bet Exotek or someone comes out with blinged out aluminum ones though.
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:03 AM   #1293
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I can admit I didn't grease mine and sure enough it popped out. I remember forgetting to grease it during the build. Funny how following instructions seems to solve most issues...

I bet Exotek or someone comes out with blinged out aluminum ones though.
I agree. I was surprised when I built the first one (a friends) that they were plastic. If a metal one comes out I think I would get them just for piece of mind. I ordered a bunch of little things for mine and am in the process of building it now. Looking forward to running it, but that wont be for a month or so.
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Old 01-18-2013, 12:43 PM   #1294
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I can admit I didn't grease mine and sure enough it popped out. I remember forgetting to grease it during the build. Funny how following instructions seems to solve most issues...

I bet Exotek or someone comes out with blinged out aluminum ones though.
I use the barrels and pins from the durango dex410. The pins have a flat spot and a set screw. They won't come out.

You can also use the dex410 o rings from the big bore shocks to prevent the shocks from leaking.
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Old 01-18-2013, 01:14 PM   #1295
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I use the barrels and pins from the durango dex410. The pins have a flat spot and a set screw. They won't come out.

You can also use the dex410 o rings from the big bore shocks to prevent the shocks from leaking.
Thanks for the tip! I'll have to pick up some of those.
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Old 01-18-2013, 03:28 PM   #1296
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I have spoken to a couple of XB4 owners who also had broken outdrives, but I think that was on the rear of the car.
One of them blamed too much uptravel.

I dont know, but I see that Martin Bayer used 2mm washer + o-ring on the damper shaft on his latest setup (DHI race in Denmark). Maybe he was worried about the same thing?

I checked my driveshafts and they have small scuffings from the outdrives, so I guess I`ve been pretty close myself. I think I`ll add an extra o-ring on the damper shafts.
I'll try an extra o-ring there, thanks! Nice tip, the out drives are $37 in the lhs here in Norway, so looking at 1/4 of a new car in spare parts already. Considering.....
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Old 01-18-2013, 06:17 PM   #1297
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Default just broke.....

just broke my outdrive on the rear diff ....
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Old 01-18-2013, 06:19 PM   #1298
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Originally Posted by poorboy racing View Post
just broke my outdrive on the rear diff ....
did you have limiters in the shock retainer to decrease uptravel?
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Old 01-18-2013, 06:27 PM   #1299
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just got a tamiya trf502x & im really kicking myself for not buying the xray...... the real difference its how easy the parts are to go for the xray. both have great quality but support on parts xray is everywhere not so with the tamiya. so you maybe looking at a new xray owner very soon.
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Old 01-18-2013, 07:34 PM   #1300
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I have noticed that the it seems the gears are absorbing the diff oil. My diffs don't leak, but when I have checked them they are nearly empty! No oil residue within the diff housing, so I am assuming the gears are some how absorbing a lot of the oil.
I haven't had a chance to run mine yet but I did open one of the diffs to check the oil level and it was low. I don't have a before/after weight for the gears but your assumption that they absorb oil seems possible, although it is something that seems odd.

That said, I'm going to just throw in NT1 metal gears and pins and call it a done deal. I know they will work and there won't be any weirdness with them.

I imagine there is a good reason why XRAY would go to the effort to use composite gears but after thinking about it for a real long time the little engineer in me isn't able to come up with a compelling reason.

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Satellite gears - they are made by purpose from composite, they are lighter and have better dynamic performance. They are molded from very special composite mixture and have very good reliability. The same gears from same special material are used in the T4 and NT1 gear diff and the traction on foam tires on asphalt is several times higher than on a buggy track. Since there are no problems with the NT1 gear diffs at all there is absolutely no need for any worry about the composite gears for XB4. However if you want to feel more safe you can use the NT1 metallic optional gears #335030, they are direct fit.
I'm assuming "better dynamic performance" means "lighter rotating weight". If so, we are not talking about much given the weight of the drive train, wheels and tires. My only concern might be where the new weak link in the system will be. Hopefully proper adjustment of the slipper clutch will mitigate that.

PS - If anyone decides to produce heavy-duty CVD caps I'll be first in line to buy them.
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Old 01-18-2013, 08:29 PM   #1301
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Default Metal ring

Dont know if it will hold but Im giving it a try. Wil report after the weekend. Its a snug fit over the plastic cover. I put CA glue to help hold it in place.

Part # is on the tag.




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Old 01-18-2013, 10:12 PM   #1302
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I did the same thing using assc collars from the 44,,then held the soldering iron on the collar for a little bit,,seems to have seated nicely,,will be trying tomorrow,,

Someone will bring out ally ones,,
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Old 01-19-2013, 05:22 AM   #1303
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Originally Posted by Theroc View Post
Dont know if it will hold but Im giving it a try. Wil report after the weekend. Its a snug fit over the plastic cover. I put CA glue to help hold it in place.

Part # is on the tag.




Attachment 1019549
Another method & might be less expensive I did this fix on my tamiya off road
cut some heatshrink place it over the cap I used a thicker shrink & never had an issue afterwards.
I have not had any issue so far but this is what I would of done
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Old 01-19-2013, 07:12 AM   #1304
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Broke the front tower today and not a single seller seem to have it in stock in my country

The car runs like a dream though (when it's not broken). Seven packs through now. Still looks new underneath since I'm running on carpet.
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:05 AM   #1305
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Broke the front tower today and not a single seller seem to have it in stock in my country

The car runs like a dream though (when it's not broken). Seven packs through now. Still looks new underneath since I'm running on carpet.
I have a few brand new spare sets of front & rear towers if you want a set

PM me for a low price including shipping to you.

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