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Old 02-23-2017, 11:42 AM
  #12106  
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Originally Posted by BadPanda818
Just a quick question. Can someone give me a starting point for gearing for a Fantom 13.5 V1 works? I was thinking 75/25 as a starting point. Will be running SCVRC clay track. Thanks in advance.
Talk with Eric at SCVRC, definitely very knowledgeable with the XB4, I'm sure he can get you in the right direction.
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Old 02-23-2017, 12:22 PM
  #12107  
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I drive that motor, that turn, at that track. 75/25-26.I have 26 in right now.
Originally Posted by BadPanda818
Just a quick question. Can someone give me a starting point for gearing for a Fantom 13.5 V1 works? I was thinking 75/25 as a starting point. Will be running SCVRC clay track. Thanks in advance.
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Old 02-24-2017, 09:08 AM
  #12108  
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Thanks for the replies guys. Jae, I think i'll try that gearing.
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Old 02-24-2017, 09:58 AM
  #12109  
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anyone tried the b64d body on this car yet?
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Old 02-24-2017, 01:01 PM
  #12110  
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Does anyone have any specific tips on shock building to get zero rebound while still having no air in the shock?

i have less experience with the bleed screw style of shocks, and am more used to touring shocks with bladders.

I followed the instructions in the manual, but ended up with either air in the shock, positive or negative rebound, or a combination of air and rebound.

if there is a special trick, or even just something in the xray instructions that I should pay special or close attention to, I would greatly appreciate some guidance.
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Old 02-24-2017, 01:16 PM
  #12111  
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Originally Posted by wkderf
Does anyone have any specific tips on shock building to get zero rebound while still having no air in the shock?

i have less experience with the bleed screw style of shocks, and am more used to touring shocks with bladders.

I followed the instructions in the manual, but ended up with either air in the shock, positive or negative rebound, or a combination of air and rebound.

if there is a special trick, or even just something in the xray instructions that I should pay special or close attention to, I would greatly appreciate some guidance.

Are you trying to build them with zero rebound? I found the manual to be pretty darn good for shock building. Key is to make sure all the bubbles are gone before screwing on cap.
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Old 02-24-2017, 01:23 PM
  #12112  
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I am trying to build with zero rebound, yes.

I am always careful to make sure there is no air in the shock before I assemble the cap, and use a shock pump to remove any traces of air.

When filling the shock to the top, should the oil be "crowning" over the edge, or should there be a meniscus, where the oil level in the center is slightly below the edge of the shock?
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Old 02-24-2017, 01:29 PM
  #12113  
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Anyone weight their buggy? Important for 13.5 class. B64 is coming on at around 1775 grams. Think the xb4 'at be lighter
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Old 02-24-2017, 01:41 PM
  #12114  
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Originally Posted by wkderf
I am trying to build with zero rebound, yes.

I am always careful to make sure there is no air in the shock before I assemble the cap, and use a shock pump to remove any traces of air.

When filling the shock to the top, should the oil be "crowning" over the edge, or should there be a meniscus, where the oil level in the center is slightly below the edge of the shock?
I fill it all the way up, any excess will come out of the bleeder hole. Maybe try with out the shock pump to see if any change.
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Old 02-24-2017, 04:56 PM
  #12115  
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Pinion of choice small track 7.5 turn
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Old 02-24-2017, 06:45 PM
  #12116  
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Looking to convert my XB4 back to the 2 pad slipper setup - so I can use a 69T spur for 17.5 stock class in Australia.
Seems "364120" slipper clutch plate is getting a bit few and far between.
Does anyone know if there is an alternative from another brand?
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Old 02-24-2017, 06:57 PM
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I'll sell u mine. I use a diff in the center. 330-501-6528 text me
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Old 02-25-2017, 06:45 AM
  #12118  
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Originally Posted by wkderf
I am trying to build with zero rebound, yes.

I am always careful to make sure there is no air in the shock before I assemble the cap, and use a shock pump to remove any traces of air.

When filling the shock to the top, should the oil be "crowning" over the edge, or should there be a meniscus, where the oil level in the center is slightly below the edge of the shock?
i build mine per the manual also, i fill just below the top of the shock body then i put a bit of oil in the cap before i put them together, this insures that no air will be left in once i push the shaft all the way in only oil should come out
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Old 02-26-2017, 12:42 PM
  #12119  
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Quick question. Why the hell did they put rear 67mm driveshafts instead of 68 on the '17 model? Im banging my head to figure out why. Im playing Rear Outter holes on bushings and driveshafts are on the edge of the couplings from the diff.
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Old 02-26-2017, 01:32 PM
  #12120  
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Originally Posted by grifind
Quick question. Why the hell did they put rear 67mm driveshafts instead of 68 on the '17 model? Im banging my head to figure out why. Im playing Rear Outter holes on bushings and driveshafts are on the edge of the couplings from the diff.
To improve clearance between the outdrive and driveshaft when using the inner and middle hinge pin positions, which are the ones primarily used.

Using the outher positions brings it above EFRA and IFMAR legal width when using anything but narrow astro / carpet tires.

The XB4 is designed to be raced under the EFRA and IFMAR rule book and development is of course focused on maximum performance under these rules

Bent
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