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Old 12-20-2016, 11:30 PM   #11851
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Good posts, thanks. I here ya on the parts situation, but for me none of my lhs have the newer car parts(unless it's a b6d). I believe my decision is made. I'm gonna pre-order the 17' xb4 and get some medium plastics w/ it. I'll get some spare arms since they are what I normally break. I know a few team drivers and some xray owners for some set up help and spare part help in a emergency situation.
Just my two cents, when I purchased my 16 I got quite a few spare parts, gears, pinions, plastics... I've only had to change one rear arm in 1 year. Quality fit and finish is definitely better with X-ray but as others have said more expensive.

No brainer if you're running carpet.

Outdoors the associated will be good as always but really they needed something to compete indoors when they got spanked in Japan, so they copied the best.
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Old 12-21-2016, 04:24 AM   #11852
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I ended up getting the 16 since I don't run on carpet. I ordered arms since I sometimes find the poles or walls at these indoor tracks(2 weeks in a row had dnf's). Glad i changed my mind and went w/ x-ray. I plan on building it w/ the 16' base clay set up.
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Old 12-21-2016, 04:35 AM   #11853
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I'm close on my suspension set up. Just curious what springs people are using. Im at
1.6 37.5 front kit spring
1.7 32.5 rear kit spring

But I'm still getting some chassis slap that's upsetting the car more than I like. Would like to run AE, TLR, Kyosho, or Yokomo as that's what is stocked at my local track...OCRC hard packed clay med/high bite.

Also what is the recommended shock length for droop setting..?

AE orange front and AE green rear works really good on similar track and also red front and black rear but they a bit soft sometimes.
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Old 12-21-2016, 06:49 AM   #11854
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I run on high bite clay with M4 Primes and here's what I've noticed.
2x1.6 Pistons make a big difference in handling and especially the 2x1.6/1.1 pistons from Avid or Schelle. Also I tried the AE springs and wasn't happy with them, I went back to using the Front 4dot and Rear 3dot springs and it makes the car feel more planted IMO and for my driving style.

Here's my setup sheet that I've tweeked over the last week or two since buying the 16 at the end of November.

Initial build setup from one on Petit RC database... fast lap 15.28 and average 16.08

Thornhill setup using AE springs (Blue & Black) and 2x1.6/1.1 pistons... best I could turn was 15.45 fast lap and average 15.9s

New Setup... switched back to Xray 4dot front and 3dot rear and dropped front shock oil from 42.5 to 40 and ran a 14.68 fast lap with average 15.2s
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Old 12-21-2016, 07:03 AM   #11855
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I run on high bite clay with M4 Primes and here's what I've noticed.
2x1.6 Pistons make a big difference in handling and especially the 2x1.6/1.1 pistons from Avid or Schelle. Also I tried the AE springs and wasn't happy with them, I went back to using the Front 4dot and Rear 3dot springs and it makes the car feel more planted IMO and for my driving style.

Here's my setup sheet that I've tweeked over the last week or two since buying the 16 at the end of November.

Initial build setup from one on Petit RC database... fast lap 15.28 and average 16.08

Thornhill setup using AE springs (Blue & Black) and 2x1.6/1.1 pistons... best I could turn was 15.45 fast lap and average 15.9s

New Setup... switched back to Xray 4dot front and 3dot rear and dropped front shock oil from 42.5 to 40 and ran a 14.68 fast lap with average 15.2s
nice. the only things that stick out to me are...

1. 300k center diff fluid is too thin. im sure your wearing out your front tires way faster than your rear? i know 4wd does this but i bet yours are really cooking off? you want to run 500k minimum and 1m preferably on med-high bite clay. 500k will be a good balance of good forward bite, somewhat equal power delivery, slightly more aggressive than 300k but still very derivable. 1m will put almost 50/50 power in many situations, will make the rear end a tad more power sliding but it's very controllable but you can setup for this, but most of all the car becomes insanely aggresive and basically requires you drive it very fast or it will handle twitchy etc. however with 1m i was able to shave time off my laps once i got used to it. the car feels like it has tons more power and it literally begs to be driven hard. these are race cars they're meant to and like to be driven hard. Ask Bent or anyone on the XRAY team they run 1m cst on clay many times. 500k on outdoors.

2. Why so much rear toe? I've found 3 degrees to be enough even with 1m center diff fluid and more power going to the rear wheels. There's so much tune ability with these cars it's not hard to get rear grip out of them without sacrificing using a ton of toe in and the compromises that come with that.
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Old 12-21-2016, 09:15 AM   #11856
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1. Nope on tire wear, the M4 front Primes still look good. I tried the 500k and got fast laps but consistency wasn't the same. With the 300k it was easier to drive, drive fast and also have fast consistent laps. Again, this is what works for my driving style and for my tracks I don't see a need to use 1mil. Most of the setup sheets that I've seen on Petit RC database are using 300k & 500k pretty evenly.
I will agree though I can't ever see using anything under 300k for this car.

When our track opens back up after Christmas break, maybe I'll try 500k again, but just didn't feel it or see it in the lap times.

I tried the Thornhill setup that some people raved about and it did not suit me and the track.

2. The toe I carried over from the Thornhill setup and that was the only thing I really kept or stayed with and for now it works. I'm debating about going back to 0-0 for the rear hinge blocks and test it back to back on the track during mid week practice night.

I also tried out the 12* Exotek Casters and didn't like them for current layout so went back to the 9* Casters. I could possibly see the 12s working at a rougher indoor track or at an outdoor track.
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Old 12-21-2016, 09:24 AM   #11857
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1. Nope on tire wear, the M4 front Primes still look good. I tried the 500k and got fast laps but consistency wasn't the same. With the 300k it was easier to drive, drive fast and also have fast consistent laps. Again, this is what works for my driving style and for my tracks I don't see a need to use 1mil. Most of the setup sheets that I've seen on Petit RC database are using 300k & 500k pretty evenly.
I will agree though I can't ever see using anything under 300k for this car.

When our track opens back up after Christmas break, maybe I'll try 500k again, but just didn't feel it or see it in the lap times.

I tried the Thornhill setup that some people raved about and it did not suit me and the track.

2. The toe I carried over from the Thornhill setup and that was the only thing I really kept or stayed with and for now it works. I'm debating about going back to 0-0 for the rear hinge blocks and test it back to back on the track during mid week practice night.

I also tried out the 12* Exotek Casters and didn't like them for current layout so went back to the 9* Casters. I could possibly see the 12s working at a rougher indoor track or at an outdoor track.
primes arent a good indicator of tire wear with no carcass ribs and things like that. electrons will tell you if they're wearing faster. but i already know if you're using 300k the front wheels are pulling the car and spinning WAY more than the rear.

just a tip, 1m is faster on good grip clay. 500k is a good happy medium. 300k would be on the easy to drive, but slower end of the spectrum. just ask the team yourself.
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Old 12-21-2016, 10:01 AM   #11858
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Thanks for the info and tips about the center diff, will look into more after Christmas. I've only had the car 4wks and only able to race 3wks out of the 4wks to get track time and testing done.

We run slicks/primes and have only been to one track with treads and tires looked fine after a day of practice, quals and mains.

Other than Bent, on the forum there's no way of telling whos on the Xray team.

But I also understand that everyone has different drive styles too to achieve the same fast car, times and laps and ultimately achieve a podium spot. I know some guys at our track like their cars to be loose and some guys like the car to be totally locked down.
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Old 12-21-2016, 11:28 AM   #11859
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300K really isnt that light. it should work fine and probably serves as the best starting point. If outdoor i feel like 300k is the best starting point but if you are running indoor super high traction or carpet, 500 & 1 mill are good options to try as well but as you stated, it's all about feel.
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Old 12-21-2016, 12:20 PM   #11860
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i thought 500k felt on the soft side for outdoor. Just right if it's dusty. I too was perplexed at these super high center diff weights. Didnt make sense to me until i tried it. I dont go any lower than 500k. If on slicks 1mm but prefer a slipper. Will try gear diff at 1.5MM or 2mm if it is available instead of the slipper.
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Old 12-21-2016, 06:09 PM   #11861
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Hell I like the stock slipper in mine, I ordered the center diff but I can't see the car getting much better than it is now
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Old 12-21-2016, 06:27 PM   #11862
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i thought 500k felt on the soft side for outdoor. Just right if it's dusty. I too was perplexed at these super high center diff weights. Didnt make sense to me until i tried it. I dont go any lower than 500k. If on slicks 1mm but prefer a slipper. Will try gear diff at 1.5MM or 2mm if it is available instead of the slipper.
outdoor could be anything, clay/ hard packed dirt..

For me, 500k seemed good for low clay to medium hard packed dirt
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Old 12-22-2016, 01:21 PM   #11863
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Jumping higher and farther: what can be done tuning wise to give this. Ugly more lift? Local track setup a small super technical track. Bunch of small, low speed jumps coming out of corners where you've got to carry a double at low speed. 2wd buggies get more lift but it's tough with the xb4
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Old 12-22-2016, 02:08 PM   #11864
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Jumping higher and farther: what can be done tuning wise to give this. Ugly more lift? Local track setup a small super technical track. Bunch of small, low speed jumps coming out of corners where you've got to carry a double at low speed. 2wd buggies get more lift but it's tough with the xb4
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Old 12-22-2016, 02:16 PM   #11865
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except when you have to have the lift to clear a double or triple into a 180. Also primarily 13.5
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