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Old 12-16-2016, 03:39 PM   #11821
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This is the problem. The cv joints are binding. But I don't know how to fix them. I think the whole drive shafts and pins that go inside the ball part of the cv need to be replaced. I cleaned them and put em back in and they don't even slide in smooth. I have to press them in and then they don't move. It's like the ball part and/or the pin parts are deformed or something.

And both front hinge pins are badly bent.

Talked to the seller and he refunded $ for all the relacement parts. At least he was cool about it. He must not have noticed it while he was running it.
Sometimes the surface treatment on the bones is just a tad bit thicker than it should be. I normally use a 3 mm needle file to just shafe some of it off to get free movement of the barrel, apply grease, and off you go... :-)


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Old 12-17-2016, 05:45 AM   #11822
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Does the new car come with the 0mm hex's front and rear? I am using the 3 slot on the rear of my '16. just checking to make sure all the same wheels will fit.

One of my local tracks is converting to carpet. I think I may need to add another XB4 to my stable so I dont have to convert them back and forth
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Old 12-17-2016, 12:23 PM   #11823
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Does the new car come with the 0mm hex's front and rear? I am using the 3 slot on the rear of my '16. just checking to make sure all the same wheels will fit.

One of my local tracks is converting to carpet. I think I may need to add another XB4 to my stable so I dont have to convert them back and forth
Yes, Kit comes with 0 slot hexes.
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Old 12-17-2016, 12:52 PM   #11824
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What track width is everyone running on medium bite where traction rolling poses no issues? Looking for the rear to be locked in but have a really sharp turning radius for low speed turns
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Old 12-17-2016, 10:57 PM   #11825
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365354 Front
365353 Rear
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Old 12-18-2016, 12:47 PM   #11826
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Ok I'm a little confused. I ordered exotek hexes 1408 and 1410. I just noticed that the 1410 isn't 9.5mm wide but a 9.5mm hex. It said for b44.2 wheels so I assumed they would be 12mm. So I reordered the 5mm wide for the front and the rear will be the 9mm wide 12mm hexes. The 5mm wide ones are 12mm hex right? I just don't understand why they have a 9.5mm hex. I've never seen a 9.5mm hex wheel
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Last edited by Slapjack; 12-18-2016 at 01:25 PM.
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Old 12-18-2016, 01:36 PM   #11827
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Originally Posted by Slapjack View Post
Ok I'm a little confused. I ordered exotek hexes 1408 and 1410. I just noticed that the 1410 isn't 9.5mm wide but a 9.5mm hex. It said for b44.2 wheels so I assumed they would be 12mm. So I reordered the 5mm wide for the front and the rear will be the 9mm wide 12mm hexes. The 5mm wide ones are 12mm hex right? I just don't understand why they have a 9.5mm hex. I've never seen a 9.5mm hex wheel
They fit the old B44 front wheels.
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Old 12-18-2016, 05:00 PM   #11828
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So when running the aluminum rear hubs you have to run a pretty big spacer (6mm) that requires a pretty long ball stud which broke on me. Is anyone having similar issues? Or should I go back to the plastic.
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Old 12-18-2016, 05:01 PM   #11829
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapjack View Post
This is the problem. The cv joints are binding. But I don't know how to fix them. I think the whole drive shafts and pins that go inside the ball part of the cv need to be replaced. I cleaned them and put em back in and they don't even slide in smooth. I have to press them in and then they don't move. It's like the ball part and/or the pin parts are deformed or something.

And both front hinge pins are badly bent.

Talked to the seller and he refunded $ for all the relacement parts. At least he was cool about it. He must not have noticed it while he was running it.
I'm thinking that the pins are literally the wrong size! Possible that the original builder put the wrong pin in there vs. the 2 pins in the gear diff... Or put the wrong pins in there if he/she lost the originals. You shouldn't have to "press them in" hard at all. You should be able to slide it in with your fingertips easily. It's an easy enough fix.
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Old 12-19-2016, 10:14 AM   #11830
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I'm thinking that the pins are literally the wrong size! Possible that the original builder put the wrong pin in there vs. the 2 pins in the gear diff... Or put the wrong pins in there if he/she lost the originals. You shouldn't have to "press them in" hard at all. You should be able to slide it in with your fingertips easily. It's an easy enough fix.
What I am referring to pressing in is the "barrel" that goes into the hole in the drive shaft then the small pin goes into that. the little silver pins fit fine but the barrel is the part that doesn't fit in the drive shaft. But I ordered all new parts so it will all be straight and un tweaked.
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Old 12-19-2016, 11:14 AM   #11831
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Anyone ever run the Mcode Motiv 13.5 motor? I have a trinity SS and schuur speed both 13.5. Was trying to decide if I should sell those and try the motiv motors. Anyone have an experience comparing the trinity or schuur speed to the motivs?
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Old 12-19-2016, 11:55 AM   #11832
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I have been running the motiv 13.5 in my wheeler for 9 or so months. Very happy with it overall for performance and customer service. I have used the Scherr speed and it is excellent as well. Can't go wrong with either motor Imogen. I stuck with motivery cuz they made me happy to run them.
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Old 12-19-2016, 02:59 PM   #11833
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I am torn between getting the 2017 xb4 and the new b64d. After reading the above 17' xb4 link I am thinking about canceling the b64d pre order and pre ordering the new xb4. That 17'xb4 ad is a good one it has me sold. I like the look of the lay out and the ease of maintenance. Maintenance is not my favorite thing and the easier it is the better for me. I also like the chassis braces which look like a easy quick tuning option. I run on clay tracks and summer time run on pretty smooth clay/dirt tracks if that makes a difference. Is the 16' xb4 better for the above tracks? Thanks for any advice, I don't wanna buy 2 4wd buggys so I want to make the right choice the first time. I don't want to get the b64d and wish I would of just got the xb4. The way I see it is you can't go wrong w/ the xb4 and your taking a chance on the b64d since it's not proven.
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Old 12-19-2016, 03:57 PM   #11834
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Every buggy has little issues that have to be worked out. The x-ray already has all the issues worked out. I'm sure what ever issues creep up on the AE car will be remedied as well. You have to ask yourself if you want to wait for a car or get one now. Also ask yourself if you like going your own way or being a part of a group that has a lot of ideas to get it setup. And how often do you race wheeler? Also questions to be asked prior to purchase. Which ever you choose, stick with the car, I think both have the potential to reward you very well.
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Old 12-19-2016, 05:40 PM   #11835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapjack View Post
What I am referring to pressing in is the "barrel" that goes into the hole in the drive shaft then the small pin goes into that. the little silver pins fit fine but the barrel is the part that doesn't fit in the drive shaft. But I ordered all new parts so it will all be straight and un tweaked.
DOH! I should have caught that....I should have caught it since I had the SAME EXACT issue since I was taking apart too many damn cars and working on them at the same exact time. I mix/matched the wrong barrel and it would not fit. Highly unlikely that a crash would have bent that. If so, the whole car would be tweaked as hell. Also, I've been super impressed by these "spring steels". I used to be super unconvinced of the supposed quality of the Xrays. Now, I don't see myself buying anything else. This is the first car that I haven't even broken any suspension arms for even after some serious "cringe worthy" car crashes running 6.5T motors. Good luck with it... You'll love this car!
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