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Old 12-08-2016, 03:20 PM   #11776
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Im running kit rear bushing setup 2deg antisquat 3deg toe 0 rollcenter 0 trackwidth
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Old 12-09-2016, 06:08 AM   #11777
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Im running kit rear bushing setup 2deg antisquat 3deg toe 0 rollcenter 0 trackwidth
that depends on what your car is doing...are you a bit loose in the rear? if you're sliding out in the corners or not getting enough forward bite on the straights. go 1* pills down on both RF and FF hangers for more roll in the corners. you could also go to 3.5* of toe in to get the rear end more locked in. but it all depends what your car is doing - we can't sit here and say the perfect bushings for you to run without knowing everything else and seeing the car on the track.
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Old 12-09-2016, 04:36 PM   #11778
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My buggy is a little loose in the rear and a bit pushy in the front when i really drive it hard, im using the same tire as most guys.
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Old 12-09-2016, 05:01 PM   #11779
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What track are you racing at?
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Old 12-10-2016, 03:31 AM   #11780
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The same track as you, Mimi's. I realized last night that i didn't have the kit setup bushings front and rear i copied a setup sheet but put them in backwards front in rear and rear in front, so i put them to all kit 0 bushings.
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Old 12-10-2016, 06:45 AM   #11781
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My buggy is a little loose in the rear and a bit pushy in the front when i really drive it hard, im using the same tire as most guys.
Well it sounds like you need more roll. Go 1 down on all suspension hangers. What shock package are you running?
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Old 12-10-2016, 10:13 PM   #11782
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I'm running the 15 version xb4. Has anyone found the motor mount slowly move in during a run. I'm finding the mesh go gradually tighter... I think the screw I'm using is maybe 2mm short from the suggested screw so possibly that?
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Old 12-11-2016, 02:13 AM   #11783
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12 degree vs 9 degree caster blocks: Can anyone give a quick summary on the difference in handling between the two? I've had the 12 degree in since I bought the buggy and never tried 9 degree. Looking for tighter turning radius coming out of hairpin turns and more roatation
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Old 12-11-2016, 07:54 AM   #11784
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Well it sounds like you need more roll. Go 1 down on all suspension hangers. What shock package are you running?
Im running 1.6 shelle piston 35wt red associated spring front 1.7 schelle piston 32.5wt black associated spring rear and 20mm ride height, i set all bushings to kit setup and the car was way faster. I raised the roll center in the rear like you said with the 1 deg bushing hole to the top and it really tightened up the rear does that also work in the front by raising rollcenter?
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Old 12-12-2016, 06:08 AM   #11785
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12 degree vs 9 degree caster blocks: Can anyone give a quick summary on the difference in handling between the two? I've had the 12 degree in since I bought the buggy and never tried 9 degree. Looking for tighter turning radius coming out of hairpin turns and more roatation
When I ran the 12* Caster Blocks I noticed it pushed a little on corner entry but worked well on exiting the corner and getting back on throttle. I've heard some use the 12* Casters to slow down the steering cause the 9* Caster can be more aggressive.

I ended up switching back to the 9* Caster blocks cause I can hold a tighter line thru the corners with it and still get on power quickly out of the corner.

I believe that the 12* are intended for better stability on medium or rough tracks. When I ran mine its was smooth high bite with some good doubles and jumps.
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Old 12-12-2016, 06:39 AM   #11786
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yeah these guys got most of it covered. 12* c blocks provide more high speed stability in general, they also provide better handling over bumps and jumps especially high speed. they hamper initial turn in, mid corner steering, snd off-power steering, but they help on power steering exiting corners. in general they tame the twitchy steering of the car a bit.

so they're not only used for big rough tracks, they're used on high bite carpet as well because of the high speed and how twitchy high bite carpet makes cars anyway.

i ran the 12* c blocks for a while and i switched back to the 9* blocks on clay, but i still run the 12* on carpet/astro.
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Old 12-12-2016, 08:40 AM   #11787
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Thanks! I'm always confused at how different people can describe on power differently. Would the 9 degrees push less after a tight 180 just starting to get on power from very low speed getting into a straight? I appreciate the help!
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yeah these guys got most of it covered. 12* c blocks provide more high speed stability in general, they also provide better handling over bumps and jumps especially high speed. they hamper initial turn in, mid corner steering, snd off-power steering, but they help on power steering exiting corners. in general they tame the twitchy steering of the car a bit.

so they're not only used for big rough tracks, they're used on high bite carpet as well because of the high speed and how twitchy high bite carpet makes cars anyway.

i ran the 12* c blocks for a while and i switched back to the 9* blocks on clay, but i still run the 12* on carpet/astro.
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Old 12-12-2016, 08:47 AM   #11788
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Sorry to add another post about the caster blocks, but 12* should give more mid to exit steering. 9* should be more twitchy around center. Basically if the front is leaning, 12* will be more steering, if it's flat the 9* will be more steering.
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Old 12-12-2016, 08:49 AM   #11789
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Perfect description thx. Do you have a high bite clay setup posted anywhere?
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Sorry to add another post about the caster blocks, but 12* should give more mid to exit steering. 9* should be more twitchy around center. Basically if the front is leaning, 12* will be more steering, if it's flat the 9* will be more steering.
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Old 12-12-2016, 09:16 AM   #11790
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I run high bite and felt the 9* were better with 180s, but also goes along with drive style as well.

This past weekend I tried out the one Thornhill setup that is posted quite a few pages back and after few packs thru the car, didn't suit my drive style or me. Almost seemed slower and when I looked at practice times it was, compared to my last race.
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