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Old 01-08-2013, 04:23 PM   #1066
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Originally Posted by asc6000 View Post
The Kyosho wheels are close in the front but the rears are way off.
DEX410 wheels from Durango or DE Racing fit.
Fronts are a direct fit and the rears you have to ream out the center hole just a tad. Offsets are the same.
Being a tire whore I don't have a huge problem buying new wheels. That reason to not buy a car is the same as not being able to buy your parts at every track in the world.... and you run Kyosho like me but we don;t let that stop us.
I have parts & that comment of every track having parts is ridiculous
I own a track & it is not the responsibilty of the track
You race you come prepared for the conditions of your driving for that track
If you selected the wrong tire who's fault is it
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Old 01-08-2013, 04:26 PM   #1067
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Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
You can use the 6mm wide Tamiya touring car hexs and dremel the step down part to the diameter of the rest of the inside and then your 12mm hex buggy rims will fit correctly on the rear. Not sure on the front, I've never measured.
The front axle is the same seth or they can use the nt1 hexes that come with offset like the tlr to change the wheelbase
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Old 01-08-2013, 04:27 PM   #1068
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Arghhh!! I missing a lower shock cap from my kit..... Bummer! I guess i will have to wait a while to run it!
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Old 01-08-2013, 04:35 PM   #1069
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Originally Posted by anderfa View Post
About to open my XB4 cardboardbox


Recap please!

What have your experience learnt you so far ?

Building tips ?

Option/upgrade tips ? (Must have, and just nice to have)

Spares you will need, and just nice to have ?

Durango wheels ok ? (Evt modding)


Running tips ?

Setup tips ? (astro)

Anyting else need to know, nice to know ?
Some tips on the composite diff's when built properly you should have no issue I built them just like I would on the Nt1 or T4 platform
Sand the back of the gears that lay towards the shim
300grit i what i use this is what a lot of the pro's do in making them smoother there less abrasive against the shims which creates less friction
while your building the shims place the diff oil by section to avoid absorbtion when the gears are set in turn them you will see the oil settle in & add a bit more I fill them over the shaft pin/cross pin & after I run them I recheck em & add oil if needed I have rebuilt mine twice & have the steel gears on order but until they arrive highly suggest checking them at the velocity that they are turning oil breaks down regardless what brand or viscosity
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Old 01-08-2013, 05:01 PM   #1070
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMartinez View Post
Some tips on the composite diff's when built properly you should have no issue I built them just like I would on the Nt1 or T4 platform
Sand the back of the gears that lay towards the shim
300grit i what i use this is what a lot of the pro's do in making them smoother there less abrasive against the shims which creates less friction
while your building the shims place the diff oil by section to avoid absorbtion when the gears are set in turn them you will see the oil settle in & add a bit more I fill them over the shaft pin/cross pin & after I run them I recheck em & add oil if needed I have rebuilt mine twice & have the steel gears on order but until they arrive highly suggest checking them at the velocity that they are turning oil breaks down regardless what brand or viscosity
+1 for George for a proper build of a composite satellite gear diff . Don't over sand the back of the small satellite gears or too much play will cause them the strip out even faster than if the oil was low

Now i have to get an XB4
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Old 01-08-2013, 05:19 PM   #1071
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niggs98 View Post
should have a dry astro setup after this weekend as well
Dry, this time of year?
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Old 01-08-2013, 05:20 PM   #1072
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My XB4 install...





Just want to race it again...
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Old 01-08-2013, 06:36 PM   #1073
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Originally Posted by john watkins View Post
Arghhh!! I missing a lower shock cap from my kit..... Bummer! I guess i will have to wait a while to run it!
I thought the same when building my kit. Turned out it inside one of the upper caps.
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:58 PM   #1074
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMartinez View Post
I have parts & that comment of every track having parts is ridiculous
exactly my argument , but I hear it from racers all the time, and as a retailer I listen to that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GMartinez View Post
I own a track & it is not the responsibilty of the track
don't take it personally
Quote:
Originally Posted by GMartinez View Post
You race you come prepared for the conditions of your driving for that track
If you selected the wrong tire who's fault is it
I took 200 sets of tires to the nationals.
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:14 PM   #1075
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Just made a little website for the shock towers and there's an option to pre-order some of the black towers which should be out sometime soon. Pay with Paypal, let me know if there's any issues.

http://mbsracing.com/shop
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:55 PM   #1076
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on a lighter note check these babies out, Panther Rattlers with AKA soft 4wfront foams fit perfect. They feel sooooo good.
Mickey was the driver in my Yokomo DogFighter, so he's what ? 24years old?
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:12 PM   #1077
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Here is the first race with the new xray at TQspeedway in Meridian Idaho
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:41 PM   #1078
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Hey folks,

I just finished my build , and after in stallions of electrics and while setting up EPA's I noticed a fault in the build....

The steering rack clears the inside button screw on full left lock but on right lock the rack clashes with the screw, see the images.

See the screwing have marked white , this seems to bee where the rack hits, I can't/don't want to tighten it down any more in case it strips



Second image is full left lock



Note: full right lock and the clash on rack.



Thoughts?.....
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:56 PM   #1079
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john watkins View Post
Hey folks,

I just finished my build , and after in stallions of electrics and while setting up EPA's I noticed a fault in the build....

The steering rack clears the inside button screw on full left lock but on right lock the rack clashes with the screw, see the images.

See the screwing have marked white , this seems to bee where the rack hits, I can't/don't want to tighten it down any more in case it strips

Thoughts?.....
The alloy flat spot is not lined up with the flat boss in the plastic. This is causing your right steer crank to angle downward. See attached
Attached Thumbnails
Xray XB4 thread-b9dcb4619fd471f88aee9de81a98ca92.jpg  
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A picture with your post, when trouble shooting, will probably get more rctech help than without...
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Old 01-08-2013, 10:08 PM   #1080
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Sweet, fixed! Your a legend Mike. Rookie. Intake by me.

Let that be a lesson to ya, if you have a problem, take sme pics and the great folks here can fix it for ya.

Woohoo

Thanks mike
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