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Old 03-21-2016, 11:09 PM   #10726
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I'm sad to say my first xb4 2016 finally broke after 3 months. A front arm shattered. Considering what its been through I'm amazed. I wasn't even using it. I lent it out. Its funny because its the car that I'm going to keep! I bought it especially for low traction wet track but it works great on medium traction bluegroove too! I have a second one for dry racing and I hardly use it. I'm the first to admit that parts are hard to get and expensive but the XB4 is a great car. Tough as nails. I've cartwheeled and clipped the pipe a lot with my first one and for an arm to be my only casualty of any kind is simply amazing.
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Old 03-21-2016, 11:59 PM   #10727
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Run the kits 81t spur with a 22 if using an 8.5 motor. I would seriously purchase the medium flex side rails and the medium flex rear chassis brace. I would get the medium flex font chassis brace however if your wanting to watch $ which is totally understandable I would purchase the med side rails and medium rear chassis brace first. If you want a little more flex out of the front hard chassis brace boil it for 15 minutes. It's not going to make it as flex you as the medium brace however it will increase its flex a tad.
Thanks! Will buy 21-22 and 23 so I can adjust on the way. Another quick one: I am thinking of trying a new motor brand (CSX from CS-Eletronic (Schumacher)). This one has 4100kv at 8.5T. So i think I should may stick to 23T?

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The medium braces aren't the only way to dial in more grip on low traction dirt. Kit setup out of the box with a few of the flex screws removed were enough for the car to work very well for me.
Sounds good, the 2 parts norse suggested would "just" be another 20. Bit I am going to try your idea first. If I am not satiesfied I can still change to medium. I think at first I will have to learn the hole 4wd stuff and get the hang of the new car.
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Old 03-22-2016, 11:31 AM   #10728
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Hello Man1ac,

Try the kits hard braces thus remove as likea45 said more multi-flex screws. The only reason I am suggestion the medium flex chassis rails and med flex chassis braces is do to the fact that they really make a huge difference on low to med bite tracks. Regarding your new motor brand and its KV rating start with the 23 as you can easily switch to a 22. If you need a little more "swole" you can always bump up the timing a tad on your motor.

Good luck my friend and enyoy your new XB4 and the great fun of 10th scale wheelers.
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Old 03-22-2016, 02:58 PM   #10729
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Hello Man1ac,

Try the kits hard braces thus remove as likea45 said more multi-flex screws. The only reason I am suggestion the medium flex chassis rails and med flex chassis braces is do to the fact that they really make a huge difference on low to med bite tracks. Regarding your new motor brand and its KV rating start with the 23 as you can easily switch to a 22. If you need a little more "swole" you can always bump up the timing a tad on your motor.

Good luck my friend and enyoy your new XB4 and the great fun of 10th scale wheelers.
Thanks for your ongoing support, great help! I am thinking of trying a new motor brand because the sonics seem to be so noisy compared to everything else. I know I will have a lot of fun, but I am still wrapping my mind around the need to spend at least 500 to get on the track. 2x 250 would be so much easier (especially after a collague offered me his 2 races old B44.3 for 250).
Danm...

Will there be a XB4 2017 to which I can easily Upgrade? I don't know how Xray works on the updating stuff
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Old 03-22-2016, 03:33 PM   #10730
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Thanks for your ongoing support, great help! I am thinking of trying a new motor brand because the sonics seem to be so noisy compared to everything else. I know I will have a lot of fun, but I am still wrapping my mind around the need to spend at least 500 to get on the track. 2x 250 would be so much easier (especially after a collague offered me his 2 races old B44.3 for 250).
Danm...

Will there be a XB4 2017 to which I can easily Upgrade? I don't know how Xray works on the updating stuff
I am not sure if the will have a 2017. Probably so, maybe it will include both hard and medium side rails and chassis braces and possibly the slipper and center gear diff. I am just guessing as I really don't know. I do know you will be highly satisfied with a 16. The old saying you get what you pay for is really spot on with XRAY.products as their quality is at the highest level.
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Old 03-22-2016, 03:44 PM   #10731
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Can someone give me a quick run down on the major differences between 13/14/15/16 XB4's? I have google searched a few times to no avail. Thanks.
Anyone??
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Old 03-22-2016, 04:13 PM   #10732
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Anyone??
the 14 is a saddle pack buggy only and you can only run a slipper in it. also it has the Plastic ring and pinion gears in the front and rear.

the 15 you can run saddle or shorty with most people running shorty. It also comes with the hudy steel ring and pinion gears in the front and back. it comes with a slipper like the 14 spec but you can buy the oil filled center diff as a option for the 15 spec.

the 16 has newer bulkheads which would break here and there on big crashes. it can be ran saddle or shorty and it also has it where you can run the motor forward in towards the back. it comes with no upper decks and also comes with a new design slipper then the 14 and 15 came with, you also have the option just like in the 15 to run a oil filled center diff. the 16spec also has a shorter chassis giving it better steering.

Overall I loved my 15spec and I do love my 16 spec as well. I would say that the 16spec is better on tighter tracks with 180 degree turns as it turns better then the 15. and with the 15 spec it seems like it driver alittle smoother and isnt as twichy (more steering) as the 16spec.
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Old 03-22-2016, 04:20 PM   #10733
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Anyone??

The 16's chassis is 4mm shorter than the 15. Reinforced diff bulkheads, shock bodies are clear type anodized finish. 16 has graphite/blend satellite and bevels within the the front and rear. 16 has a 3 pad slipper. Geometry is different on the 16 over the 15. 16 does not require or use top decks. The 15 can be set up not to need top decks. Rear uprights are slightly different on the 16, as well as the shock towers being redesigned and a tad beefier. The 13 and 14 are quite different regarding the chassis using a plastic tub over the aluminum chassis.

16 Body is different than previous years. 16 solely runs shorty set up as the 15 can either run saddle or shorty config. The 13 and 14 are saddle only. 15 has medium flex chassis rails and chassis braces 16 has hard flex. The 16 and 15 rails and braces are different in lengths.

Probably a bunch of stuff I am missing. I would get a 16 or buy a nice used 15 roller.
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Old 03-22-2016, 04:49 PM   #10734
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What is a good starting setup on dirt?

Seems most are pretty sporadic on setup.
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Old 03-22-2016, 05:26 PM   #10735
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What is a good starting setup on dirt?

Seems most are pretty sporadic on setup.
What year car? My 16 likes a different setup than my 14 and 15 cars did is why I'm asking.
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Old 03-22-2016, 09:04 PM   #10736
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RCGod is a perfect fella to ask about set-ups per the XB4 and different year models.
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Old 03-22-2016, 09:31 PM   #10737
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What year car? My 16 likes a different setup than my 14 and 15 cars did is why I'm asking.
16.

Looking for shock setup mostly now. Wanting to use 1.6/1.7
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Old 03-22-2016, 10:55 PM   #10738
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16.

Looking for shock setup mostly now. Wanting to use 1.6/1.7
hi mate we are running dirt here in aus med to high grip with a big triple me and my mate are running stock kit piston set up and gone 50 up in front and rear oils iam running about 25% rebound my mate running no rebound both cars dialled
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Old 03-22-2016, 11:56 PM   #10739
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So recently my 16 car has been roaching pinion gears in the rear gear box. At first I thought here we go again, like the dastardly 14 car, I need to go in and shim up the difs for a tighter mesh. Which I did. However last night only a week later my rear trans has started to sound ratchety and make the noise it does when it's blown a pinion gear. I remember the 14 car had issues with the slipper being too tight. I decided to run the slipper on the 16 car since it has been redesigned and I've liked the feel, I run it as loose as you possibly can so I'm apt to rule that out as a culprit unless it just doesn't matter what it's set at and it sends too much power to the rear.

I'm super frustrated. This is the third gear it's cooked. Never had an issue with the front gear box only rear and I'll add my 15 car with the center dif has never roached a gear.

Suggestions?
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Old 03-23-2016, 12:08 AM   #10740
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Just to be safe I'd replace the case, bearings, ring & pinion, and bearings. Something is clearly not right.
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