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Old 02-20-2016, 05:54 PM   #10471
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Originally Posted by KyoshoSC View Post
Hi guys,

I just bought my first Xray off road car....an XB4-14. I can't find an Xray motor gearing chart. Does anyone have a gearing recommendation for a 10.5 Novak motor in this buggy? Thx
Go to Novaks suggested FDR guide per motor sizes and application type ( 2wd buggy, wheeler, etc etc,). Divide spur by pinion and multiply that by the internal gear ratio. That is how u find your FDR. Novaks FDR chart will provide suggested FDR for 10.5 in 10th scale wheeler.
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Old 02-20-2016, 07:14 PM   #10472
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I used 2- 1.5 1.1 and 2-1.5 1.1 in my 15 on lower bit dirt to med bite clay. They worked great and handle larger jumps fairly well. I Have them for my 16 as well.

So you used the 1.5+1.1 in the front and rear? Would you stick with that or would you try the 1.6+1.1 in the rear?
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Old 02-20-2016, 10:28 PM   #10473
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Why is everyone switching to 1 dot? Just trying to understand. Stock springs too stiff?
Yeah, I'm not sure on an XB4. I run 4-dot on my car on grey ozite carpet and green astro turf, and on the higher bite clay track I run on. I could see going to 3-dot, perhaps even a 2 dot out back but not the 1-dot. But I haven't raced mine outdoor at all so far. This summer it will get a good test, however
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Old 02-20-2016, 11:36 PM   #10474
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New owner of a XB4 -16, I have a tekin gen 3 7.5T motor with a 22T pinon. Is normal for the pinon gear to stick out towards the front of the car more than the spur gear? There is no way to tighten down the set screw for the pinon gear if it is inline with the spur gear. I am using the xray pinon as stated in the manual. If I flip the pinon gear around the set screw barely grabs the motor shaft when its inline with the spur gear.
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Old 02-21-2016, 06:17 AM   #10475
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It's the second time 2 of my screws kinda melt when i try to unscrew them on my diff gear. any suggestions how to fix this? i will just cut them off and replace the gear as well but, why is this happening on new screws with new screwdriver? :/ is it the silicone or grease in there?
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Old 02-21-2016, 06:55 AM   #10476
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Originally Posted by grifind View Post
It's the second time 2 of my screws kinda melt when i try to unscrew them on my diff gear. any suggestions how to fix this? i will just cut them off and replace the gear as well but, why is this happening on new screws with new screwdriver? :/ is it the silicone or grease in there?
You need a better driver. I was doing the same thing before I purchased all Mip tools.
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Old 02-21-2016, 10:56 AM   #10477
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ok thanks... something last... on this track, is 3000cst front and 1000 cst back too low? i just upgraded my roll center after this video and car runs smooth as f...
Would you suggest trying 7000-5000 or leave it as it is?


i cannot post links yet because of my posts but just delete the space between the link and see the video.
youtube .com/watch?v=q74K5z8t1IA

This is our own track by the way here in Katerini- Greece we made it ourselves and now we are going to upgrade it to turf.
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Old 02-21-2016, 12:50 PM   #10478
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had the same thing happen. In fact i couldnt get it out and asked a fellow racer for a drimmel and he just pulled out the mip tool and pulled the bad screw out. i walked to the pit shop and bought a set right then. btw i have a full set i would sell if you pm me. but either way get mip, they are the best by a long shot
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Old 02-21-2016, 12:54 PM   #10479
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Originally Posted by grifind View Post
ok thanks... something last... on this track, is 3000cst front and 1000 cst back too low? i just upgraded my roll center after this video and car runs smooth as f...
Would you suggest trying 7000-5000 or leave it as it is?


i cannot post links yet because of my posts but just delete the space between the link and see the video.
youtube .com/watch?v=q74K5z8t1IA

This is our own track by the way here in Katerini- Greece we made it ourselves and now we are going to upgrade it to turf.
heck no, 3k and 1k is way way to low. I run 5k front and 3k rear on the worst blown out track here on dirt. i would think by the video that anything under 7k front and 5k rear would be to low, I would even try 8k, 8k or 1ok, 7k from the looks of things
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Old 02-21-2016, 01:33 PM   #10480
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Default Ackermann Alu Bar

Hi guys,
I'm currently running the optionnal ackermann aluminium bar with the #1 hole.
Can someone tell me what are the effects of the others holes?

Many thanks!
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Old 02-21-2016, 02:30 PM   #10481
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Originally Posted by grifind View Post
ok thanks... something last... on this track, is 3000cst front and 1000 cst back too low? i just upgraded my roll center after this video and car runs smooth as f...
Would you suggest trying 7000-5000 or leave it as it is?


i cannot post links yet because of my posts but just delete the space between the link and see the video.
youtube .com/watch?v=q74K5z8t1IA

This is our own track by the way here in Katerini- Greece we made it ourselves and now we are going to upgrade it to turf.

IMO 2nd lap round coming onto the straight, that looks like the rear breaks away as a result of it diffing out, which would suggest your too low on the rear oil. Likewise your initial turning in on alot of the bends looks very nice but then seems to want to wash out, and yet another lap on the same corner looks fine. OK this could be a number of things but, again it looks as though the diffs are to free.
Do you ever feel as though one lap feels perfect and yet another the car is twitchy or unpredictable especially on throttle exiting a bend? If so, I would put money on the car being more drivable with thicker oil diffs.
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Old 02-21-2016, 02:41 PM   #10482
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Originally Posted by Piles View Post
IMO 2nd lap round coming onto the straight, that looks like the rear breaks away as a result of it diffing out, which would suggest your too low on the rear oil. Likewise your initial turning in on alot of the bends looks very nice but then seems to want to wash out, and yet another lap on the same corner looks fine. OK this could be a number of things but, again it looks as though the diffs are to free.
Do you ever feel as though one lap feels perfect and yet another the car is twitchy or unpredictable especially on throttle exiting a bend? If so, I would put money on the car being more drivable with thicker oil diffs.


The thing of the rear washing out, fixed by upgrading the roll center on Rear and it doesnt exist anymore. car runs 10 times better just by adjusting rear roll center but i still think i should try 7k front 5k back silicone....
And one critical aspect is that this video is 1 month ago shot of my first runs on my xb4. i drive a lot better now and the setup has changed only as far as roll center and shock oils little thicker.
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Old 02-21-2016, 02:52 PM   #10483
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The thing of the rear washing out, fixed by upgrading the roll center on Rear and it doesnt exist anymore. car runs 10 times better just by adjusting rear roll center but i still think i should try 7k front 5k back silicone....
And one critical aspect is that this video is 1 month ago shot of my first runs on my xb4. i drive a lot better now and the setup has changed only as far as roll center and shock oils little thicker.
I wouldnt criticise your driving buddy it looked good, especially as I thought the car looked a challenge to get round. Glad to hear you,ve fine tuned it and that your more confident in it.
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Old 02-21-2016, 02:55 PM   #10484
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I wouldnt criticise your driving buddy it looked good, especially as I thought the car looked a challenge to get round. Glad to hear you,ve fine tuned it and that your more confident in it.
heheh well im not of those guys who get offended. i like to be shown if something is wrong, :P the car is more than fine with the rollcenter tuning done after the video but the question is, will it be better with thicker oils on diffs ?
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Old 02-21-2016, 03:59 PM   #10485
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Hey Bent,

Can you please ask Xray to make a shock shim kit like XRA358019 for the XB4/2? Mine are loose and would like to freshen up but $11 X 2 for the piston/shim kit is a little steep since I don't need the pistons.

Thanks....
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