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Old 02-08-2016, 02:59 PM   #10351
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High grip carpet: running wide staggers yellow up front and mini pins yellow in the rear. The fronts last for 3 runs tops and then its flat as a slick, rear take for ages the get some significant wear on the pattern. What am i doing wrong? Any suggestions?
Fyi i am running malins eos setup.
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Old 02-08-2016, 03:12 PM   #10352
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High grip carpet: running wide staggers yellow up front and mini pins yellow in the rear. The fronts last for 3 runs tops and then its flat as a slick, rear take for ages the get some significant wear on the pattern. What am i doing wrong? Any suggestions?
Fyi i am running malins eos setup.
I'm also experiencing the same thing.
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Old 02-08-2016, 03:24 PM   #10353
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Gents,

Been looking at this chassis for a bit and wondering if many feel there is enough droop to make it plush enough to navigate US style indoor clay tracks.

I had the 2014 chassis...loved the thing, but it didn't seem to have enough suspension at times to really shine on uneven dirt surfaces and larger jumps. The D413 comes to mind for many, but I don't feel one needs that much.

Can anyone comment on whether or not the 2016 has made any change in that regard?
On rough tracks the car has enough droop if you don't put any limiters in the shocks and unscrew the shock ends a couple of turns. And don't run your ride height too low.
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Old 02-08-2016, 03:24 PM   #10354
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Try dboots nanobytes
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Old 02-08-2016, 03:58 PM   #10355
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can you get a small enough spur for this buggy for 13.5 or do you modify a associated gear thanks in advance.
The stock 81 works fine with a 13.5. I'd have to check to make sure but I think that I was able to squeeze in a 27 pinion and it works good for both of my cars.
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Old 02-08-2016, 04:06 PM   #10356
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Also can you tell me if your running the centre gear diff in low med traction? And is that included in the kit?
I'm running 2 13.5 cars. One on low traction wet-track and the other on med traction blue groove. The wet car was built to book specs with no limiters on the outside of the shocks (can't remember up/down....whatever, the book calls for 3mm on each shock) with 5/3 in the diffs, the slipper loose. Shock oil 30/25. The other car has a center gear diff and I run 8/100/5 and 37.5/32.5 in the shocks with the book setup. I'm more than pleased with both.
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Old 02-08-2016, 09:54 PM   #10357
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Does anyone know if the caster blocks on 15 and 16 are the same?
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Old 02-08-2016, 10:41 PM   #10358
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So I went to go order my kit last night and noticed that a lot of the parts for the 2016 were on back order this kind of scared me besides a main are there any other good online parts suppliers and is this a regular thing with xray parts being out of stock. My local track dosent supply parts so I need to stock up thanks .
The guys are right there are plenty of US based sites to buy XRAY parts.

Also: Absolute Hobbyz, GSHobby carry XB4 parts. This wheeler is stone cold tough, thus grab the usual spares that are always good to have, however you rarely need anything. My 15 last year had one issue being a bent right back axle.
This was my fault as I was running a small track set up on a huge 8th scale track and bent the axle after clearing a huge triple a few times.
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Old 02-08-2016, 10:42 PM   #10359
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Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
On rough tracks the car has enough droop if you don't put any limiters in the shocks and unscrew the shock ends a couple of turns. And don't run your ride height too low.
+1 on RCGODS advice.
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Old 02-09-2016, 08:00 AM   #10360
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The guys are right there are plenty of US based sites to buy XRAY parts.

Also: Absolute Hobbyz, GSHobby carry XB4 parts. This wheeler is stone cold tough, thus grab the usual spares that are always good to have, however you rarely need anything. My 15 last year had one issue being a bent right back axle.
This was my fault as I was running a small track set up on a huge 8th scale track and bent the axle after clearing a huge triple a few times.
My 14 is a tank, I have taken some massive wrecks with that thing that would have snapped multiple parts on my old Schumacher K1A. Only issue I had was a CV pin pushed through the retaining cup on the front, causing me to have 2wd for a couple laps, easily fixed though.

I am hoping the '16 will be just as strong!
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Old 02-09-2016, 08:13 AM   #10361
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Default Wheel offset

Guys, has anyone ever tried to mount 12mm Serpent wheels of the current SRX4 4WD buggy in the XB '16? Would it fit and what offset wheel hexs would you need to have the stock offset? The reason i ask that i've been looking at these wheels because they have not only the rear but also the front wheel hex hidden. I like that.
I guess the front ones need an offset but would like to hear that from someone who tried it..
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Old 02-09-2016, 09:20 AM   #10362
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Guys, has anyone ever tried to mount 12mm Serpent wheels of the current SRX4 4WD buggy in the XB '16? Would it fit and what offset wheel hexs would you need to have the stock offset? The reason i ask that i've been looking at these wheels because they have not only the rear but also the front wheel hex hidden. I like that.
I guess the front ones need an offset but would like to hear that from someone who tried it..
The fronts will not fit at all. For wheels, take a look at the 22-4 Proline wheels - they have the correct offset and hide the nuts like you mentioned.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...754-02/p365332
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Old 02-09-2016, 09:24 AM   #10363
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The fronts will not fit at all. For wheels, take a look at the 22-4 Proline wheels - they have the correct offset and hide the nuts like you mentioned.
Why won´t they fit at all? Is the hexx too depp to be reached no matter which Offset hex you use?

Have you got a part number for proline wheels front and rear you mentioned?

Thanks mate!
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Old 02-09-2016, 03:22 PM   #10364
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It sounds like you may have built something wrong. Its basically the same front end from the '15 to '16. I get the same amount of throw on both my '15 and '16 cars.

Do you have the front hubs on the correct sides? Check the steering plate screws are not hitting the bulkhead?
Bingo! Thank you to everyone who replied, i'm an idiot and forgot to tighten the two screws directly under the steering plate all the way.

Another dumb question. There seems to be an awful lot of play in the steering system. It's hard to get an accurate read for toe/camber when there is so much play in it (same amount with the wheels installed). Is this normal?

Here are two real quick videos I took:

Video 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YbzRYa5Ekys

Video 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4GHC5H4u8xc

Here are some photos of the front end as well: https://imgur.com/a/d3Q9P

Thank you for any help, everyone here has been really great!
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Old 02-09-2016, 03:54 PM   #10365
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Bingo! Thank you to everyone who replied, i'm an idiot and forgot to tighten the two screws directly under the steering plate all the way.

Another dumb question. There seems to be an awful lot of play in the steering system. It's hard to get an accurate read for toe/camber when there is so much play in it (same amount with the wheels installed). Is this normal?

Here are two real quick videos I took:

Video 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YbzRYa5Ekys

Video 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4GHC5H4u8xc

Here are some photos of the front end as well: https://imgur.com/a/d3Q9P

Thank you for any help, everyone here has been really great!
From the looks of the video, it looks normal. That's not to say that some might have less play in the steering rack, but I use the 4 hole steering rack and mine has the same amount of play. The car drives straight and I don't notice any play on the track when I'm driving.

On my car, it looks like the bushings on the steering arm that the steering rack connects to have just the slightest bit of play due to machining tolerance. In my car, that's where it looks like it's coming from, but as obsessive as I am about my car, I still don't see any difference in driving.

Some don't like any slop and use shims to eliminate it, but sometimes that makes the car a bit twitchy. I personally feel the amount of slop is fine.
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