Norse

iTrader: (43)

Check your camber on all your wheels. you definitely don't want positive camber but you don't want to much negative camber.

As Symmetricon replied with a very important question which would help in providing better suggestions. "what kind of track conditions are you running on?'

timannnn6

iTrader: (140)

Where are you guys ordering the body from?

Edit: N/M found it http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb4-4w...EAAOSw14xWLRVE

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

My car dos great on low-med traction wet dirt. With the book set up and lighter diff and shock oils my car makes our wet dirt feel dry. I think I used 5 & 3 for the diffs and 30/25 for the shocks. Other than that the only other change from stock is the lack of the 3 mm up travel limiter on the shocks. There is not a faster car on our track and I only have a 13.5. My indoor/dry car uses the book set up and a center gear diff w/100k. Its perfect for med-high traction dirt/clay. I cannot say enough good things about the XB4 2016. Its a miracle car.

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

I don't mean to be a jerk but if you want your car to feel like a 2wd you should get an XB2. You can tune your car to not turn over but its never going to feel like a 2 wheeler. I would stiffen it up and take a little droop out if its flipping. I can drive mine much harder than any of my 2wd buggies so I'm not sure why you'd want your wheeler to be something its not.

UK.hardcore

in the rear with stock position you must use 2mm up travel limiter or your driveshaft will catch the pin slot on full compression.

BDRMBULLY

iTrader: (40)

And snap goes your outdrive. 35.99 a pair 😢

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

When you mean drive shaft, are you referring to the CV/dogbone/swingshaft? I'll have to check that out. I guess that I've been lucky for the last couple of months. I run a TBone rear skid which is at least 2mm thick. That might be what has been keeping my car from bottoming out and breaking.....I'll definitely look into adding the the limiters in the rear.

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

I went ahead and looked at my car, and you're right, the dogbone bottoms out in the outdrive under full compression. I'll add the limiters right away.

randy0025

iTrader: (11)

I am glad you said this aswell. Because I have been running no uptravel shim in the rear or front. Guess I will be adding 2mm tot he rear asap.. thanks

Norse

iTrader: (43)

You can also go wideron your eccentric bushing settings, thus out being little wider width. I only use one o-ring and no up travel limiters, thus having no issues with dog bones bottoming out within the diff out drives.

Norse

iTrader: (43)

Has anyone ran their XB4 rear shock tower on the backside of the rear diff, thus allowing for the rear shocks to be placed on the backside of the shock tower and the backside of the rear a-arms. If so what was the outcome as far as how it affected the buggies performance.

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

I tried it and the main problem is reduced droop because the back of the arm is lower than the front due to anti squat. You would have to use longer shock ends to get the lost droop back for lower bite tracks.

Speedychris22

iTrader: (68)

Thinking of picking up this car, had the 2014 version a few years ago and really liked the car, my question is the only problem I had with the car were the shocks they got dirty very quickly, have they updated the shocks?

Norse

iTrader: (43)

Thanks RCGod, Just trying to understand why many say rear shocks behind the rear shock tower and thus attached on the backside of the rear a-arms is better for low traction.
If you had the droop you needed would you think that would be better for low bite.

thanks my friend

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

Hard to say. It will put more weight at the back of the car which would be good for forward traction on low bite, but then again would increase the pendulum effect in the corners which might make the car loose. Would have to try it to find out for sure.