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Old 12-20-2015, 12:33 PM   #9676
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Originally Posted by racesanything View Post
So higher diff oils will cause it to "push" into the corner a bit more. In the carpet it seems to hook and turn. Makes exiting the corner feel loose. I cant drive into the corner near as hard as i would like to
On Ozite carpet with clay compound slicks, I went from that feeling with 10K front and 10K rear to 20K front and 10K rear and it was soooooo much better coming into corners full brake, kept a ton of steering for the 180's, and good traction out. Edit to add: I also went up 15wt in the front oil and 5wt in the rear.
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Old 12-20-2015, 12:51 PM   #9677
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yes i have read page in the book like 10 tens and i still dont understand it.
I guess where I get lost is if for example, if you get the inserts that have the dots in the middle but toward the inside it say -1.5 track, well what would the Anti Squat and Roll Center and Toe In? sorry if this is a really dumb question i am normally good at this stuff but just dont get there system. thank
If you just move the inserts to the inner position front and rear you haven't changed the anti-squat or toe-in.

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Old 12-20-2015, 07:39 PM   #9678
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Has anyone used a '15 or '16 body on a '14? I know the newer bodies are slightly wider but if I used Velcro on the sides would that close up the fap good enough?
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Old 12-20-2015, 09:23 PM   #9679
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What gearing are people using for 17.5 motors in the '16 model?
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Old 12-20-2015, 11:04 PM   #9680
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Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
Yes this is intentional.

This lets the suspension work much better at lower ride heights like 15-16mm and adds overall grip to the car.

What you refer to as twitchy we refer to as added steering

Standing the shocks up will make it more twitchy.
To calm it down we lay the shocks down, not stand them up

What surface are you running on and with what tires ?

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Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
What kind of traction levels are you racing on? Going up in your diff fluids will calm down the "twitchyness" or what I like to call responsiveness. With the lighter diff fluids the car will rotate faster off the center point of the car.

Tell us what exactly the car is or isn't doing and let's see if we can dial it in for you a bit.
Surface and tire:
The surface is medium to high bite clay. Surface is similar to like. CRCRC or SDRC but less grooved on the outside of the lines. The current tires for the track are gold dirt webs, soft electrons, chain links and Panther bobcats and rattlers. I'm running rattlers rear and bobcats up front.

What the car is doing:
The car seems really wild exiting corners. It seems edgy, like I have to really stay vigilant of its direction and make constant inputs to keep it online. It is very responsive in the air but landing seems less plush or firm as my 15 does. When it lands, the cars seems to ignore my commands a bit and sort of keeps moving when I'm on the brake to get into a corner, almost like it's sagging on braking. The slipper seems good to me. I just want the car to be easy to drive. I can't race an edgy car, I like clean consistent laps.

If I'm at 7k front and rear dif oil, and went up to 10k front and 8k rear would this be a good starting point? Considering laying down the shocks but I was always told laying them down adds steering and standing them up removes it. I'm wondering if I've got this backwards. They are presently in the middle position. Any suggestions would be helpful.
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Old 12-21-2015, 06:12 AM   #9681
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Originally Posted by likea45 View Post
Surface and tire:
The surface is medium to high bite clay. Surface is similar to like. CRCRC or SDRC but less grooved on the outside of the lines. The current tires for the track are gold dirt webs, soft electrons, chain links and Panther bobcats and rattlers. I'm running rattlers rear and bobcats up front.

What the car is doing:
The car seems really wild exiting corners. It seems edgy, like I have to really stay vigilant of its direction and make constant inputs to keep it online. It is very responsive in the air but landing seems less plush or firm as my 15 does. When it lands, the cars seems to ignore my commands a bit and sort of keeps moving when I'm on the brake to get into a corner, almost like it's sagging on braking. The slipper seems good to me. I just want the car to be easy to drive. I can't race an edgy car, I like clean consistent laps.

If I'm at 7k front and rear dif oil, and went up to 10k front and 8k rear would this be a good starting point? Considering laying down the shocks but I was always told laying them down adds steering and standing them up removes it. I'm wondering if I've got this backwards. They are presently in the middle position. Any suggestions would be helpful.
My recommendation would be to go thicker in the diff fluids, try 10k/10k and also go 1°dot in on the RF and RR hinge pin block. If your running on high bite with thin diff fluids the car can easily become unsettled mid corner if the inside tire loses traction, it can cause the car to diff out. Moving the rear hinge pins in will narrow the track width and should allow the rear to roll more and clear more stability through the turn...
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Old 12-21-2015, 08:55 AM   #9682
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Hi Xray guys!
I want to use my Associated B5 rear wheels on my XB4 16. Does anyone know which 12mm Hex will fit to respect max authorized track widths?

Thanks...
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Old 12-21-2015, 08:56 AM   #9683
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Hi Xray guys!
I want to use my Associated B5 rear wheels on my XB4 16. Does anyone know which 12mm Hex will fit to respect max authorized track widths?

Thanks...
Exoteck 7mm rear hexes.
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Old 12-21-2015, 10:50 AM   #9684
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Default XB4 ackerman steering rack

Will have an XB4 before Christmas... pretty stoked to get it.

All this talk about the 2016 being twitchy has made me a little nervous : ) On my previous wheeler I used the outer front ackerman adjustments to tame down the initial steering. I understand the stock factory ackerman bar / steering rack only has 2 outer holes for adjustment. The optional (is it optional?) aluminum steering rack has four outer holes for more adjustment.

Can you tell me the location of the 2 new holes? Are they closer to the front wheels or on the inside in comparison to the stock?
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Old 12-21-2015, 11:07 AM   #9685
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Originally Posted by Vincent_Diesel View Post
Will have an XB4 before Christmas... pretty stoked to get it.

All this talk about the 2016 being twitchy has made me a little nervous : ) On my previous wheeler I used the outer front ackerman adjustments to tame down the initial steering. I understand the stock factory ackerman bar / steering rack only has 2 outer holes for adjustment. The optional (is it optional?) aluminum steering rack has four outer holes for more adjustment.

Can you tell me the location of the 2 new holes? Are they closer to the front wheels or on the inside in comparison to the stock?
Don't worry.

It's all about setup.

The twitchiness described by some are referred to as added steering by others

You can easily tune out steering and calm it down

Alu. ackermann bar is used to make the steering more precise and adds the option of also adjust the length of the steering rod (not just forward/back).

The extra holes are closer to the wheel making the steering link shorter.

Bent
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Old 12-21-2015, 11:13 AM   #9686
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Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
Don't worry.

It's all about setup.

The twitchiness described by some are referred to as added steering by others

You can easily tune out steering and calm it down

Alu. ackermann bar is used to make the steering more precise and adds the option of also adjust the length of the steering rod (not just forward/back).

The extra holes are closer to the wheel making the steering link shorter.

Bent
Thanks for the reply. I race on high bite astro and could always use precision.

Do you feel this part is necessary for high grip tracks like mine?
The added holes are for less initial turn in?
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Old 12-21-2015, 11:14 AM   #9687
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Originally Posted by dr speed View Post
Hi Xray guys!
I want to use my Associated B5 rear wheels on my XB4 16. Does anyone know which 12mm Hex will fit to respect max authorized track widths?

Thanks...
The Xray 12mm hex #365357 is 6.8mm wide (without the flange) and should get you very close.

#365354 -0.75mm (2pcs) = 3.8mm
#365353 0mm (2pcs) = 4.6mm (XB2 stock front)
#365355 +0.75mm (1 stripe)(2pcs) = 5.3mm (used on front of XB4 with #369912)
#365356 +1.5mm (2 stripe)(2pcs) = 6.1mm (used on rear of XB4 with #369913)
#365357 +2.25mm (3 stripe)(2pcs) = 6.8mm (XB2 stock rear)
#365358 +3.00mm (4 stripe)(2pcs) = 7.6mm
#365359 +3.75mm (5 stripe)(2pcs) = 8.4mm

The small inner flange that goes towards the bearing are not included in the measurements .
This flange adds 0.3mm on all the above numbers.





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Old 12-21-2015, 10:10 PM   #9688
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Default 2016 slipper

I am building my 2016. Building the slipper I appear to be having a brain fart. Page 27 first 4 pieces make sense. The. It shows putting the second pin in against the spur. If I put the pin in after the spur I can not get the clutch plate over the pin. It all fits if I put spur, disk, plate, pin, disk, plate, nut. When don't this way the pin is on top of the plate listed as #3. Any help in getting me to understand? Video?
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Old 12-22-2015, 05:58 AM   #9689
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randy0025 View Post
yes i have read page in the book like 10 tens and i still dont understand it.
I guess where I get lost is if for example, if you get the inserts that have the dots in the middle but toward the inside it say -1.5 track, well what would the Anti Squat and Roll Center and Toe In? sorry if this is a really dumb question i am normally good at this stuff but just dont get there system. thank
So, on the rear,
if both dots front and rear are inside, they narrow the track width.
If the front is inside and the rear is center, it adds toe


Now, if you have the width/toe set in mind.

the front rear hanger's are Up(higher than the rear), that will add Anti Squat.

Now, the overall pin height will change roll center.

there are many configurations, start with the book setup and change from there.
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Old 12-22-2015, 11:26 AM   #9690
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Originally Posted by mconway View Post
I am building my 2016. Building the slipper I appear to be having a brain fart. Page 27 first 4 pieces make sense. The. It shows putting the second pin in against the spur. If I put the pin in after the spur I can not get the clutch plate over the pin. It all fits if I put spur, disk, plate, pin, disk, plate, nut. When don't this way the pin is on top of the plate listed as #3. Any help in getting me to understand? Video?
After installing the spur gear itself onto the shaft, mount the slipper pad (#2), alu. plate (#3) and then the pin (#1) before assembling the rest



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