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Old 12-08-2015, 10:42 AM   #9541
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The shocks are super good even with the stock molded pistons. The new shock body coating is really good as well. When freshly built they're as smooth, if not smoother than any other shock out there. The only issue I have is that because the o-ring is designed for maximum smoothness there isn't a lot of longevity in a shock build. You need to rebuild them every few races to keep them in tip top shape. Other cars don't start out as good, but remain at that level for a long time, where the X-Ray shocks start out super good but then you need to rebuild them a lot more often.
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Old 12-08-2015, 10:46 AM   #9542
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If you build shocks with zero rebound at all, they will all suck some air. If you build them with smallest amount of "suck" and "rebound", I've never had any issue with it, except for the AE shocks with red o-rings. X-rings have fixed that on TLR and AE pretty well.
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Old 12-08-2015, 11:18 AM   #9543
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Default Awesome feedback, thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kuruption View Post
What you are describing is a side effect of running emulsion style shocks. I have run AE and TLR stuff too, and if you run that style, you need to expect that "settling" as well as redoing your shock oil more frequently (i.e. it gets dirtier quicker).

The settling actually makes effect within the first minute or two of a run, so I usually set my ride height 2mm higher when i rebuild shocks knowing the settling will happen.
I completely agree that emulsion does have this "side effect". I'm basically doing the same in terms of ride height. I set it after the initial rebuild of the shocks, then reset the ride height after running a battery pack.


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Just set my car up indoor carpet with b5m shocks and like it so far compared to xray shocks.
Good to hear. Keep us posted on how you like them.


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Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
When you build the shocks initially with zero rebound (freshly built) there is no air in the shocks. She shock shafts displaces all the air. When you pull the shock shafts out there is a vacuum, rc shock will always pull some air in blue to this vacuum. The shocks will always try to reach equilibrium in pressure between vacuum (stroked out) and pressure (fully compressed) meaning at 50% rebound the shocks will have the same pressure inside the shock as outside the shock. At full compression the pressure value will be equal yet opposite to the vacuum when the shock is fully stroked. You should regularly blead your shocks of excess air if you are trying to get 0 rebound.
^^This is exactly what I see. From the responses, what I am experiencing is completely normal and it's not a xray issue, but more of a emulsion shock norm.


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Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
The shocks are super good even with the stock molded pistons. The new shock body coating is really good as well. When freshly built they're as smooth, if not smoother than any other shock out there. The only issue I have is that because the o-ring is designed for maximum smoothness there isn't a lot of longevity in a shock build. You need to rebuild them every few races to keep them in tip top shape. Other cars don't start out as good, but remain at that level for a long time, where the X-Ray shocks start out super good but then you need to rebuild them a lot more often.
^^This 100%. I could not have said it better. Kinda wish xray would offer an x-ring option as I remember the x-rings helping on the kyosho and associated shocks.


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Originally Posted by gticlay View Post
If you build shocks with zero rebound at all, they will all suck some air. If you build them with smallest amount of "suck" and "rebound", I've never had any issue with it, except for the AE shocks with red o-rings. X-rings have fixed that on TLR and AE pretty well.
I agree and have basically done what you are describing as a compromise to keep the shock consistent.

At the end of the day, I guess it is a matter of how you like to maintain your car. The xray shocks do start out feeling very good and I'm assuming the o-ring is designed to provide the best possible feel with durability being a secondary focus behind shock smoothness.

One thing I do think needs to be mentioned is the shocks when newly built are amazing. Right up there with the best, but in order to keep them feeling in tip top form, the o-rings must be changed more regularly and i will take that into account.

Thanks for all the responses.
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Old 12-08-2015, 11:44 AM   #9544
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Keep in mind that more so than how a shock feels in the hand, weather or not the pistons are machined or molded, is how they actually work on the car. I feel as a whole, the shock package is as good as anything else out there. I'm running 1.6x2 hole 40wt front and 1.7x2 hole 35wt rear and it is so plush. The car is stuck... no slapping and no bouncing around in the rough.
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Old 12-08-2015, 01:00 PM   #9545
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Nothing "wrong" with the shocks per say. I have read and talked to people about how these particular shocks seem to want to settle or suck air more than other cars(AE or TLR), and I consider these a downgrade from the shocks on my kyosho cars. I have just gotten used to the way to bleed those and the cartridge seems like a good design and the shocks seem to never get air in them and stay very clean. These shocks not so much... Does this mean they wont perform as well? Heck no. I would of liked to see machined pistons in a kit with this price but it is what it is.
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Old 12-08-2015, 01:41 PM   #9546
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Quote:
Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
Keep in mind that more so than how a shock feels in the hand, weather or not the pistons are machined or molded, is how they actually work on the car. I feel as a whole, the shock package is as good as anything else out there. I'm running 1.6x2 hole 40wt front and 1.7x2 hole 35wt rear and it is so plush. The car is stuck... no slapping and no bouncing around in the rough.

did you drill your own pistons, because if I can remember right I thought the kits only had one set of 2 hole pistons but were low like 1.3 or 1.4, just asking as I am running the Avid 2+2 1.1 x 1.5 and 1.1 x 1.6 and was thinking of trying the 2 hole 1.6 & 1.7 as i have seen them on a couple buggys now
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Old 12-08-2015, 03:41 PM   #9547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randy0025 View Post
did you drill your own pistons, because if I can remember right I thought the kits only had one set of 2 hole pistons but were low like 1.3 or 1.4, just asking as I am running the Avid 2+2 1.1 x 1.5 and 1.1 x 1.6 and was thinking of trying the 2 hole 1.6 & 1.7 as i have seen them on a couple buggys now
Yes, I drilled them out.. 1.6X2 40wt front and 1.7X2 35wt rear is perfect.
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Old 12-08-2015, 04:11 PM   #9548
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Quote:
Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
Yes, I drilled them out.. 1.6X2 40wt front and 1.7X2 35wt rear is perfect.
Im going to start with the box setup but ive used 2x1.6 in the front and 2x1.7 in the rear for all my other wheelers, these shocks will accept AE shock pistons correct?
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Old 12-08-2015, 04:21 PM   #9549
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Im going to start with the box setup but ive used 2x1.6 in the front and 2x1.7 in the rear for all my other wheelers, these shocks will accept AE shock pistons correct?
No, Xray pistons are thinner than the standard TLR/AE
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Old 12-08-2015, 04:21 PM   #9550
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Originally Posted by RobsRacin View Post
Im going to start with the box setup but ive used 2x1.6 in the front and 2x1.7 in the rear for all my other wheelers, these shocks will accept AE shock pistons correct?
I would imagine they would work, but to be honest, the stock pistons drilled works so perfectly that I wouldn't try anything else. I believe the OD of the molded pistons may be looser than the other brands by a little bit, but I think this is by design.
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Old 12-08-2015, 04:29 PM   #9551
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mojo tom View Post
No, Xray pistons are thinner than the standard TLR/AE
Gotcha, thanks
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Old 12-08-2015, 07:13 PM   #9552
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Fellas can someone post part#'s of what i need to use 16' diffcase n tower??? Is it just Complete case n tower??
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Old 12-08-2015, 07:20 PM   #9553
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Originally Posted by 1evo RRR Driver View Post
Fellas can someone post part#'s of what i need to use 16' diffcase n tower??? Is it just Complete case n tower??
http://www.teamxray.com/xb4/2016/dow...loded_view.jpg
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Old 12-08-2015, 07:26 PM   #9554
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Originally Posted by RobsRacin View Post
Im going to start with the box setup but ive used 2x1.6 in the front and 2x1.7 in the rear for all my other wheelers, these shocks will accept AE shock pistons correct?
Xray piston is smaller than AE piston.I bought VRP piston would not fit inside the xray shocks. I bought proline shock complete set and vrp piston and it was a great better than xray shocks.
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Old 12-08-2015, 09:29 PM   #9555
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Does anybody know where to get spare arms for the XB4 '16 in the US? They have the rear arms on Amain but they are back ordered. Also, do the part #362111 front arms work on the 2016? They have those on amain but I don't want buy them and not have them work. I really want to get this buggy but I don't want to get it and not have spare parts.
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