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Old 11-10-2015, 08:30 PM   #9271
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[QUOTE=oclock;14260361]
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Originally Posted by Norse View Post
Are you using a smart phone or iPad? If so take a picture of your issue with either then upload to the thread via the attachment icon.
I used a cannon camera, and high ress pic. 3mm is all i got, And then i tried to go back but spinning in the plastic,
No worries on your English my friend, as it's just fine. 3mm should be good however it sounds like you have a break.

PM me a picture if you can. I will PM you my email if that makes it easier.
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Old 11-10-2015, 08:46 PM   #9272
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I have PM-ed u 3 pictures allreay.
That's strange as I have not received any PM's as of yet. Wonder if your messaging is not working right.

I PM you my email address. Just send pics to my email so I can look at them as well as post them on this thread.
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Old 11-10-2015, 10:18 PM   #9273
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I got it my friend. You look to have it together right. Have you installed it fully into the chassis yet? If you have not then fully install. Once installed you should be able to adjust the preload nut.

If you have installed it fully and cannot adjust the preload. You will need to take the servo saver apart fully.

I see the bubbling in the pic. Part looks faulty or it could be bubbled if thread lock was sitting on the plastic.
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Old 11-10-2015, 10:22 PM   #9274
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The thread lock goes on the preload nut and just a tad at that. Personally I don't use it on the preload nut.
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Old 11-10-2015, 10:22 PM   #9275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oclock View Post
I can use the servo saver, but i cant tune it, and if my servo suck, i cant save it its and the manuall told me to glue it with blue , i did, and its spinning in the plastig, look at the picture, u see a bulge in it

I reazalise what can be reaad above is hard to get, ill happile adress questions in this thread.

I will keep warinng for new builders up, servo saver in manual is wrong. forget 3-4 mm, go 0



art
Art, just use a set of needle nose pliers to grab the inside and outside of the servo saver while you loosen the nut for the spring.

I see you are located in Oslo.

Instead of posting a ton of posts here and not feeling you get the help needed I'll be happy to meet you at Oslo Modellbilklubb's track at Hvervenbukta to give you a few tips and hints on the build.

There's no problem getting 3-4 mm on the servo saver spring as the spring settles. As mentioned before if you're only getting 2.5-3mm at first then use this for the first run and then readjust at the track if needed.

I also suggest you to join the Facebook group of Oslo Modellbilklubb 1/10 Offroad where you can easily ask questions and upload pictures.
Here you can also get help with setup for the astro tracks in Oslo or indoor track in Moss.

Bent
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Old 11-11-2015, 12:47 AM   #9276
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Originally Posted by Nat Maniac View Post
No offense oclock but can anyone else confirm the same? I will be building mine tonight..

Bent?

Thanks
As mentioned before if you're only getting 2.5-3mm at first then use this for the first run and then readjust at the track if needed.

If you don't compress the spring with a set of pliers prior to building it the servo saver spring will quickly settle once you start running it out on track.

Same method is advised for the slipper spring as well. Compress the spring a few times with a set of pliers before assembly.

Bent
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Old 11-11-2015, 01:50 PM   #9277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
Art, just use a set of needle nose pliers to grab the inside and outside of the servo saver while you loosen the nut for the spring.

I see you are located in Oslo.

Instead of posting a ton of posts here and not feeling you get the help needed I'll be happy to meet you at Oslo Modellbilklubb's track at Hvervenbukta to give you a few tips and hints on the build.

There's no problem getting 3-4 mm on the servo saver spring as the spring settles. As mentioned before if you're only getting 2.5-3mm at first then use this for the first run and then readjust at the track if needed.

I also suggest you to join the Facebook group of Oslo Modellbilklubb 1/10 Offroad where you can easily ask questions and upload pictures.
Here you can also get help with setup for the astro tracks in Oslo or indoor track in Moss.

Bent
I built my servo saver last night first without compressing the spring. I could do it but could only achieve 0-1mm.

Took off the spring, I few light compressions with the pliers got me to 3mm relatively easily with a good amount of resistance.

It's all gone together very well, although I am missing a front bull cup nut and conical shim. Perhaps it's ended up in the shock bags which I will tackle tonight.
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Old 11-11-2015, 02:13 PM   #9278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nat Maniac View Post
I built my servo saver last night first without compressing the spring. I could do it but could only achieve 0-1mm.

Took off the spring, I few light compressions with the pliers got me to 3mm relatively easily with a good amount of resistance.

It's all gone together very well, although I am missing a front bull cup nut and conical shim. Perhaps it's ended up in the shock bags which I will tackle tonight.
They include an extra bag with a couple misc. bolts and nuts. Check through your bags, you will see what I'm talking about.


P.s I have a set of Orange exotek rear hubs if anyone is interested pm me.

Last edited by suby723; 11-11-2015 at 02:24 PM.
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Old 11-11-2015, 03:38 PM   #9279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
They include an extra bag with a couple misc. bolts and nuts. Check through your bags, you will see what I'm talking about.


P.s I have a set of Orange exotek rear hubs if anyone is interested pm me.
Ha, yep I think I have that, numbered .604215455 or something random. Had a look but couldn't find a conical shim, thats ok as it gives me an excuse to put on some matching blue associated 2mm shims.
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Old 11-11-2015, 06:17 PM   #9280
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I mounted the radio gear last night. Unfortunately, it's like installing radio gear into a Durango. but it's not quite as hard as a Durango.


I got their in the end and I'm happy with it now.


Time to hit the track. I'm excited.
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Last edited by Boz; 11-11-2015 at 11:36 PM.
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Old 11-11-2015, 08:38 PM   #9281
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Anyone know were to get a front A arm in the US part number 362112 Thank You
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Old 11-11-2015, 08:42 PM   #9282
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Try calling rc America tomorrow and see if they have them in stock.
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Old 11-11-2015, 09:04 PM   #9283
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Wondering if any one else has the same problem, i set my car up with the motor in the rear position but the nut and screw that holds the side pod to the chassis just behind the motor is stoping me from fitting my motor, the only way i can get my motor in is not to run that screw which means that the side pod will only be held by 2 screws the one at the front and the one at the rear, any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 11-11-2015, 09:47 PM   #9284
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Is it normal for the 2016 xb4 to be very loud when you use it? I had a 2014 one and it was pretty quiet when i raced it.

I was curious if the newer steel ring/pinion gears are what makes it so loud...or do i need to look at things closer? My gear mesh is perfect. It just sounds really loud compared to all the other cars at the track.

Anyone?
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Old 11-11-2015, 10:30 PM   #9285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Catzilla View Post
Anyone know were to get a front A arm in the US part number 362112 Thank You
discountrcstore.com


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Originally Posted by freakshow__ View Post
Is it normal for the 2016 xb4 to be very loud when you use it? I had a 2014 one and it was pretty quiet when i raced it.

I was curious if the newer steel ring/pinion gears are what makes it so loud...or do i need to look at things closer? My gear mesh is perfect. It just sounds really loud compared to all the other cars at the track.

Anyone?
It is louder than the composite gears. It sounds just like my 15 with the same gears in it. As long as nothing is grinding it should be normal. Make sure that slipper is set exactly to the manual or it can kill the gears if you're running it.
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