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Old 11-10-2015, 12:31 PM   #9256
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Bentka,

I am thinking about purchasing the brass rear hanger set for my 16 XB4. Just wanted to get your input on how much they will benefit the buggy on loose bite track conditions.

Would you happen to know how many extra grams of weight they will add.

With your early advice to run my 16 XB4 with the motor in its spec kit position first over the rear position has me wondering about just adding the brass hangers for the extra weight.

As always Bentka I appreciate your help and thus sharing set up advise.

Best,

Norse

Balance is much better on the '16 and combined with a lot more mechanical grip in the car I would've rather spent the money on medium chassis side pods, medium chassis braces, 1dot springs, softer wheels (Xray 12mm) and a center diff.

We have never had the need for the brass hangers on the 4WD only on the XB4 2WD

Stock alu. RR+2 and RF+2 hinge pin holders weigh 7.7 grams.
Brass RR+2 and RF+2 hinge pin holders weigh 26.9 grams.

Bent
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Old 11-10-2015, 12:47 PM   #9257
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Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
Balance is much better on the '16 and combined with a lot more mechanical grip in the car I would've rather spent the money on medium chassis side pods, medium chassis braces, 1dot springs, softer wheels (Xray 12mm) and a center diff.

We have never had the need for the brass hangers on the 4WD only on the XB4 2WD

Stock alu. RR+2 and RF+2 hinge pin holders weigh 7.7 grams.
Brass RR+2 and RF+2 hinge pin holders weigh 26.9 grams.

Bent

Thank you Bentka, appreciate the advice on what direction I should go. I have a new center diff kit and 1 dot springs. Thus I will order the medium chassis side pods, and medium chassis braces.

If I was running the above suggested medium chassis braces, and side pods and needed to stiffen up the chassis quickly due to the track conditions changing from loose bite to medium bite, would incorporating the rear carbon fiber top chassis brace suffice.(not sure on the part number for the rear top CF multi-flex brace)

Thanks Bentka
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Old 11-10-2015, 01:01 PM   #9258
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Originally Posted by Norse View Post
Thank you Bentka, appreciate the advice on what direction I should go. I have a new center diff kit and 1 dot springs. Thus I will order the medium chassis side pods, and medium chassis braces.

If I was running the above suggested medium chassis braces, and side pods and needed to stiffen up the chassis quickly due to the track conditions changing from loose bite to medium bite, would incorporating the rear carbon fiber top chassis brace suffice.(not sure on the part number for the rear top CF multi-flex brace)

Thanks Bentka
Yes that would be an option.

Steps on the chassis braces would be:

Soft
  • Medium brace
  • Hard brace
  • Medium brace with carbon stiffener
  • Hard brace with carbon stiffener
Hard

Bent
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Old 11-10-2015, 01:26 PM   #9259
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Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
Yes that would be an option.

Steps on the chassis braces would be:

Soft
  • Medium brace
  • Hard brace
  • Medium brace with carbon stiffener
  • Hard brace with carbon stiffener
Hard

Bent
Thanks Bentka! This info. is greatly helpful my friend.
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Old 11-10-2015, 02:57 PM   #9260
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Ok I'm back with my shock not fully compressing question. I think it is a
Combination of all my positions I'm using. I moved the camber link to the inside hole on the hub and it seems to compress fully now. In this pic the right side
Is on the inner hub hole and left is in the middle. The manual days to use the middle but it looks like a lot of camber like that. Now I am trying to think if I ever checked the length of the camber link... But anyways runnin on that inner hub hole is fine right?
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Old 11-10-2015, 03:01 PM   #9261
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Got another question too. The manual doesn't show a shim between the arms and the front and rear hangers (making the wheelbase shorter or longer - see pic below). Right now I have mine in the rear making it shorter. That ok?


Also wanted to know if anyone runs there hub/bearing carriers on te inside hole (making the car width wider). Stock position is the outer hole but just wondering if making it wider would make it handle better?
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Old 11-10-2015, 03:09 PM   #9262
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Anybody run the rear shocks in the rear position what are your thoughts and what changes does it make to the car
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Old 11-10-2015, 04:03 PM   #9263
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Originally Posted by Slapjack View Post
Ok I'm back with my shock not fully compressing question. I think it is a
Combination of all my positions I'm using. I moved the camber link to the inside hole on the hub and it seems to compress fully now. In this pic the right side
Is on the inner hub hole and left is in the middle. The manual days to use the middle but it looks like a lot of camber like that. Now I am trying to think if I ever checked the length of the camber link... But anyways runnin on that inner hub hole is fine right?
With the camber link that is in the middle hole of the hub you have a massive amount of negative camber which would make the driveshaft hit. Adjust the camber link if you want to run the middle hole. Most guys run the middle hole but some run the inner on clay. I always feel like the inner hole allows the rear to move around faster while the middle hole makes it all roll a bit slower and more controlled. You should also get more over all side bite in the middle as the car will roll farther.

The original xb4 didn't have adjustable arms, but from the '14 on there's shims to move the arms back and forth. I'd run it just like you have it for clay.

Moving the hinge pin from the inner to outer position shouldn't change the width since there's corresponding holes in the hub. You're just changing the pivot point.
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Old 11-10-2015, 05:01 PM   #9264
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I hope we slow people following the building manual and destroying our servo saver can get redemtion.

"Silence, something about silence makes me sick"

Post some pictures please.
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Old 11-10-2015, 05:20 PM   #9265
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ehm, cant i just upload an immage? do i need to put it on a webpage to get an url?
Do you want to email it to me?
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Old 11-10-2015, 05:31 PM   #9266
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Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
With the camber link that is in the middle hole of the hub you have a massive amount of negative camber which would make the driveshaft hit. Adjust the camber link if you want to run the middle hole. Most guys run the middle hole but some run the inner on clay. I always feel like the inner hole allows the rear to move around faster while the middle hole makes it all roll a bit slower and more controlled. You should also get more over all side bite in the middle as the car will roll farther.

The original xb4 didn't have adjustable arms, but from the '14 on there's shims to move the arms back and forth. I'd run it just like you have it for clay.

Moving the hinge pin from the inner to outer position shouldn't change the width since there's corresponding holes in the hub. You're just changing the pivot point.
Thanks for the help, much appreciated.
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Old 11-10-2015, 06:02 PM   #9267
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[QUOTE=oclock;14260205]on a positive note, i got a 65c turningy shorty, 4200 and a chartger, up 100, surprice fast from honkong. 3-4 days to Oslo I got told expected date was 23 dec. but dhl got into it. Art[/QUOTE

Gotta love OSLO! Great city in a great country can't wait to visit again. Definetly will be during the summer.

Welcome to the thread
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Old 11-10-2015, 06:27 PM   #9268
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on a positive note, i got a 65c turningy shorty, 4200 and a chartger, up 100, surprice fast from honkong. 3-4 days to Oslo I got told expected date was 23 dec. but dhl got into it. Art

i regret i cant show u my picturesm i took care to make good ones.

New builders be aware: Servo saver is wrong in instructions.

my tip is, build it so its flush, disregard the 3-4 mm instruction. / at least u can fix it if u dont break it. flush is too looose if racing, thats for sure tho.
No offense oclock but can anyone else confirm the same? I will be building mine tonight..

Bent?

Thanks
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Old 11-10-2015, 06:33 PM   #9269
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ty sir, let me know, ill let u drag me around anytime!

It's hard to express our love for the US, but we depend on you being what you are. Norway, and the western EU. cant be without the US. TY
Art

Definetly my friend! Like I said I love Norway not just because my families from Norway, as it is an incredible country.
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Old 11-10-2015, 07:18 PM   #9270
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I cant wait to use pictures to explain my frustrastions btw I wont count threadss, ill just suddenly experience freedom. art
Are you using a smart phone or iPad? If so take a picture of your issue with either then upload to the thread via the attachment icon.

There has been a few having issues with how far the can tighten up their servo saver. Some I believe are not able to get 3mm to 4mm of visible thread on their servo savor.
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