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Old 11-06-2015, 01:26 AM   #9166
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Originally Posted by HSV427 View Post
Well i just finished building the new 16 car and went and tested it at my local track and let me tell you its nothing short of awesome, the car went together in typical XRAY fashion and the parts are the same high quality we have come to expect from X-ray. The biggest difference i noticed was the bulk heads, shock towers and rear hubs and in my personal opinion any one running the 15 car that doesn't want to up grade just yet but wants to get there buggy handling like the new car all you will really need is shock towers and rear hubs, from what i can tell i see no reason why this won't get you very close and will give you a car that will feel like the 16, now i no a lot of people will disagree because yes the 16 car has more setup features like moving arms and motor position, but in my personal opinion they are tunning aids which are played with to adapt to track conditions and although these adjustments can make a huge difference i don't think they will be effective as the shock towers, and if your 15 car is already dialled and your looking to try something different i would definitly suggest the shock towers and rear hubs. I believe the biggest gain in handling and performance will come from the hubs and shock towers, its the new shock positions which have dramatically improved the car in my opinion, me myself am going to get the hubs and shock towers for my 15 car and that way can do a direct comparison.
On a different note can some one explain how the chassis flex screws are used meaning for high traction you use all 7 screws but i run on a very low grip track so which of the chassis flex screws would i not install, for example do i leave out the front middle or rear or do i not install any off them, some help will be greatly appreciated.

The new shock towers and rear hubs are just a tiny part of what adds to the different handling of the '16 compared to the '15.

The chassis is different in both length (shorter), weight distribution (all components have been moved) and flex.
The harder side pods together with the revised chassis and braces gives different flex as well.
The new updated arms with different shock locations TOGETHER with the new updated towers allows the car to work much better on lower ride heights.
The new front arms which moves the shocks forward gives more overall steering.
Relocation of all components further forward on the chassis gives a very different weight distribution compared to the '15.

If you want to change the shock towers then also consider changing to the updated '16 a-arms front and rear. At least this will get you closer to the geometry of the '16 as far as shocks go

Bent
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Old 11-06-2015, 01:35 AM   #9167
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Originally Posted by Boz View Post
I have already ask Bent about the One Dot rear springs. This was his relpy






To be honest I'm not entirely sure.

Maybe with the release of the XB2 as we use them there quite a lot.

You can cut down a set of rear 1dot springs to length though.
This will get you close to the 1 dot front springs (will be a touch harder).

That's what we did in testing before we had the 1 dot springs made

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Originally Posted by Homer723 View Post
1 dot linear fronts should be 3.2 to 3.3 lb/in. Which are equaivalent to losi silver or associated white.
1 dot front springs will be released with the XB2

Bent
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Old 11-06-2015, 01:40 AM   #9168
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Originally Posted by Norse View Post
Bentka,

Do you know if the 81mm front drive shaft will work when setting the 16 XB4 motor config. in the optional farther back position. I was able to purchase the 95mm cvd from the XRAY-shop Austria and thought they would have the 82mm CVD, however they are not positive when they will obtain new 82mm cvd stock.

Thus wondering if the 81mm front drive shaft will work only being 1mm shorter.

Thank you as always for your help.

Best
It could work yes. Only thing that might be a worry is the shaft popping out if you case it on top of a jump or something similar.

I would however recommend using the stock forward position for anything but really low grip tracks

Bent
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Old 11-06-2015, 01:43 AM   #9169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
The new shock towers and rear hubs are just a tiny part of what adds to the different handling of the '16 compared to the '15.

The chassis is different in both length (shorter), weight distribution (all components have been moved) and flex.
The harder side pods together with the revised chassis and braces gives different flex as well.
The new updated arms with different shock locations TOGETHER with the new updated towers allows the car to work much better on lower ride heights.
The new front arms which moves the shocks forward gives more overall steering.
Relocation of all components further forward on the chassis gives a very different weight distribution compared to the '15.

If you want to change the shock towers then also consider changing to the updated '16 a-arms front and rear. At least this will get you closer to the geometry of the '16 as far as shocks go

Bent
Thanks for that i didn't notice the chassis till you mentioned it.
also Bentka can you explain how the chassis flex screws are used meaning for high traction you use all 7 screws but i run on a very low grip track so which of the chassis flex screws would i not install, for example do i leave out the front middle or rear or do i not install any off them, some help will be greatly appreciated.
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Old 11-06-2015, 02:00 AM   #9170
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Originally Posted by HSV427 View Post
Thanks for that i didn't notice the chassis till you mentioned it.
also Bentka can you explain how the chassis flex screws are used meaning for high traction you use all 7 screws but i run on a very low grip track so which of the chassis flex screws would i not install, for example do i leave out the front middle or rear or do i not install any off them, some help will be greatly appreciated.
Obviously you would start on the front or rear braces respectively to add steering or rear grip.

Start by removing the middle screws first as this will increase overall flex.

But for very low grip tracks I would highly recommend the medium side pods (361265) and the medium front (361294) + rear (361295) chassis braces.

This will increase overall flex and provide a lot more traction for low grip tracks

Bent
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Old 11-06-2015, 03:25 AM   #9171
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I think there is a miss print with how much to tighten down the servo saver at 3 to 4 mm it's really tight anyone else have this problem
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Old 11-06-2015, 03:41 AM   #9172
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I think there is a miss print with how much to tighten down the servo saver at 3 to 4 mm it's really tight anyone else have this problem
No misprintů..we run it at 4mm +

If you have a weak servo (as in fragile gears) you can run it looser but you will loose steering precision.

Bent
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Old 11-06-2015, 08:01 AM   #9173
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Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
It could work yes. Only thing that might be a worry is the shaft popping out if you case it on top of a jump or something similar.

I would however recommend using the stock forward position for anything but really low grip tracks

Bent
Thank you Bentka! 👍 Much appreciated my friend.
Now that our outdoor season is over and were not racing on hard packed dirt, I will just wait on running the motor in it's rearest position.
Heck quite possibly if the wife lets me I may purchase another 16 later in the year as it would be nice to have 1 dedicated to higher bite tracks and another dedicated to low to bite conditions.

That gets pricey but well worth it in allowing more time on track and less time changes sets up for drastically different track conditions.

Thanks again Bentka as everyone really appreciates your sharing your knowledge and experience.👍


Best,
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Old 11-06-2015, 08:02 AM   #9174
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Big thanks to Suby for hooking me up with a Bugle Boy front bumper
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Old 11-06-2015, 10:22 AM   #9175
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Big thanks to Suby for hooking me up with a Bugle Boy front bumper
Your very welcome brotha! Hope it gets to you before race day!
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Old 11-06-2015, 10:30 AM   #9176
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Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
No misprintů..we run it at 4mm +

If you have a weak servo (as in fragile gears) you can run it looser but you will loose steering precision.

Bent
I don't think there's enough thread on there to go to 4mm. It simply won't screw on that far on my kit.
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Old 11-06-2015, 10:41 AM   #9177
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Mine did just fine. Check the threads. I had no issues achieved 4mm.
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Old 11-06-2015, 11:14 AM   #9178
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Originally Posted by gticlay View Post
I don't think there's enough thread on there to go to 4mm. It simply won't screw on that far on my kit.
I have the same problem, the maximum thread I could get was 2mm and the servosaver spring is fully compressed.
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Old 11-06-2015, 11:24 AM   #9179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gticlay View Post
I don't think there's enough thread on there to go to 4mm. It simply won't screw on that far on my kit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. Jepsen View Post
I have the same problem, the maximum thread I could get was 2mm and the servosaver spring is fully compressed.
Then you have something not assembled correctly or not fully seated

Bent
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Old 11-06-2015, 11:27 AM   #9180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norse View Post
Thank you Bentka! 👍 Much appreciated my friend.
Now that our outdoor season is over and were not racing on hard packed dirt, I will just wait on running the motor in it's rearest position.
Heck quite possibly if the wife lets me I may purchase another 16 later in the year as it would be nice to have 1 dedicated to higher bite tracks and another dedicated to low to bite conditions.

That gets pricey but well worth it in allowing more time on track and less time changes sets up for drastically different track conditions.

Thanks again Bentka as everyone really appreciates your sharing your knowledge and experience.👍


Best,
Nothing's better than having dedicated low and high grip cars

And you're welcome. Just happy to be of help as long as people appreciate it

Bent
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