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Old 10-27-2015, 09:41 AM   #9046
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http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...408blk/p441103

Google is your friend
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Old 10-27-2015, 10:10 AM   #9047
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Originally Posted by HeavyD99 View Post
I appreciate your reply but I have the 9mm hex adapters and when I put the PL wheels on there is barely any thread for the wheel nuts which is why I was asking about the 7mm adapter.

I googled and tried to researched all this before posting my questions and asking for other racer's help.

Thanks again though
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Old 10-27-2015, 10:57 AM   #9048
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Originally Posted by A2Racing View Post
I appreciate your reply but I have the 9mm hex adapters and when I put the PL wheels on there is barely any thread for the wheel nuts which is why I was asking about the 7mm adapter.

I googled and tried to researched all this before posting my questions and asking for other racer's help.

Thanks again though
are you sure they are pushed on all the way?

are you using the nylock wheel nuts or the factory serrated ones? I have yet to have a rear tire not fit.

with 7mm hex, I can run serrated nuts no problem on the rear. Maybe a pic?
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Old 10-27-2015, 10:58 AM   #9049
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Originally Posted by MaricopaAgent View Post
The Front wheels listed are 2wd. Not 4wd.. You need a ZX6 or 22-4 for 12mm Hex.
Do you know what width hex is correct for those two wheels? I need to know!
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Old 10-27-2015, 12:40 PM   #9050
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Do you know what width hex is correct for those two wheels? I need to know!
On Exotek's website it gives you approximate widths with the different wheels and their hexes. I've had great luck with their products.

http://www.exotekracing.com/xb4-12mm...ar-2-7mm-wide/
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Old 10-27-2015, 01:02 PM   #9051
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On Exotek's website it gives you approximate widths with the different wheels and their hexes. I've had great luck with their products.

http://www.exotekracing.com/xb4-12mm...ar-2-7mm-wide/
I saw that - but what is the stock width? The one that says AE/Kyosho with the same measurement must be referring to the back? Should say AE/Kyosho/TLR/Serpent/everyone.
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Old 10-28-2015, 01:33 AM   #9052
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I run the 9mm exotek hexes with tlr22 wheels, width is in spec and axle just protrudes from wheel nut.
fronts I run 5mm hobbyking hexes with 22-4 wheels you will be at 245mm width,
with b42.2 wheels you will be exactly 250mm. and axle is flush with nut.
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Old 10-28-2015, 09:58 AM   #9053
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Anybody upgrade their older xb4's to the new 2015 style shorty lipo chassis? I have a 13' that I'd like to update. A parts list would be awesome. Thx in advance.
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Old 10-28-2015, 10:21 AM   #9054
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It is strange Some people are not having gear issues. I think it may be tracks that have good size jumps that is beating on car more than it can handle. There is no way. Torque value could be set for tiny screws in plastic reliably. X-ray has made new bulkheads for the 16 so they know their is. Issue. As the other guy stated I don't mind buying 20 bucks in gears once in a while. I do however mind when the issue is so bad that gears are on back order everywhere all over the world and I now have a useless car and miss races.
None of these companies ever admit a issue. Always side step it. That's par for the course. But at least the others keep good stock in their parts that fail often.
Can some of guys that have no issue with gears list slipper settings and type of track surface and jumps there.

Bentka what are u looking for specifically to know either was over tightened and caused issue ?
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Old 10-28-2015, 10:36 AM   #9055
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Make sure all 4 screws are actually in the bulkhead cover. I forgot the bottom two one time and had my gears slip, otherwise I've never had any issues.

6.5t, slipper very tight, ultra high traction clay (almost no tire slippage anywhere), and no diff shims.
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Old 10-28-2015, 10:49 AM   #9056
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Your not supposed to set your slipper tight, that is the issue. 0-1mm is where I have mine set to. On the 16 car 0mm is perfect, that is what all the team members where running at yatabe.
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Old 10-28-2015, 10:56 AM   #9057
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ResultsRC View Post
Can some of guys that have no issue with gears list slipper settings and type of track surface and jumps there.

Bentka what are u looking for specifically to know either was over tightened and caused issue ?
We run mostly on high to very high grip astro and carpet with either center diff with 1.000.000 cst diff grease or slipper usually set to 0-0.5mm gap.

On low to medium grip clay or dirt we run either center diff with 500.000 cst diff grease or slipper usually set to 0mm gap.

You can feel relatively easy if the screws for either the bulkhead cover or diff housing have been over-tightened.

They should come to a noticeable stop when tightened all the way down.

One mistake a lot of people do is use an electric screw driver on too high of a speed and torque setting.
Too high of a speed will heat up both the screw and plastic resulting in expanded threads. This combined with over-tightening will quickly ruin the threads.

When using an electric screw driver I always use the low speed setting and only tighten down to 90% and then do the remaining 10% by hand to ensure not to over-tighten.

For the diff housing and the smaller screws I find these to have been over-tightened in 9 out of 10 cases.
This combined with overfilling the diff will allow the diff to expand as pressure and heat builds up. This expansion will have the same result as shimming the bevel gear 0.2-0.3 mm away from the pinion gear resulting in excessive wear on the gears and in the end stripping of the gears.

Xray have added material where the bearings rest to withstand the forces trying to expand the diff and thereby "pressing" and holding the diff together.
But with the forces applied to these relatively small gears something unfortunately have to give in the end.

People are in most cases also running their slippers way too tight which only adds to the forces applied as well as making the XB4 that much harder to drive.

The slipper is a fantastic tuning aid and should really be given just as much consideration as shock oils and tires but people tend to just "set and forget"……….

Bent
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Old 10-28-2015, 11:46 AM   #9058
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after 5 years of hot bodies (D8/D812/D413) i switched the first time to xray.
the XB4_16 looks amazing and i had the possibility to test the XB4_15 on my local track a few times and really liked it.

right now i just have one question:

are there yellow xray wheels with 14mm hex coming in the near future?
we all know that yellow wheels are way faster than the white ones

cheers
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Old 10-28-2015, 12:07 PM   #9059
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Originally Posted by Gertsch View Post
after 5 years of hot bodies (D8/D812/D413) i switched the first time to xray.
the XB4_16 looks amazing and i had the possibility to test the XB4_15 on my local track a few times and really liked it.

right now i just have one question:

are there yellow xray wheels with 14mm hex coming in the near future?
we all know that yellow wheels are way faster than the white ones

cheers
Sorry….no plans for any yellow Xray wheels.

Your best bet would be to go with 12mm wheels from another brand instead

We run the softer 12mm Xray wheels for more grip but they only come in white.

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Old 10-28-2015, 12:16 PM   #9060
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Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
Sorry….no plans for any yellow Xray wheels.
Your best bet would be to go with 12mm wheels from another brand instead
We run the softer 12mm Xray wheels for more grip but they only come in white. Bent
ok, thanks a lot for the fast feedback!
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