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Old 01-02-2013, 08:47 AM   #871
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1st club race everything went well coming from on road the xb4 drives like a touring car rotates excellent and carries tons of corner speed stock setup just used a heavier shock oil
Had a Blast driving this class
Can't wait to have mine going this weekend so I can run laps around you!
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Old 01-02-2013, 10:51 AM   #872
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Default First impressions just build

Built the car over yesterday! Was really impressed with the build, no crappy plastic like rango/schumi which strips with power drivers. Shocks are very very light, feel like plastic almost. Do not know performance yet though. Make some squishy noises on compression ala durango so not yet upto kyosho. Lets see how they perform

Another thing I noticed is, its going to be cheap to keep the drive shafts fresh with http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/p...8c74992776cbad since all pins are 1/8 size. The main cost in schumacher and kyosho (still is) is replacing the drive shafts/outdrives. Xray solves this in 1/8 by making pins softer than outdrives so happy on that front.

Waiting for my new esc and should be good to run a few laps this weekend Super stoked that I went with this rather than the k1.

Also the ball cups are the most tight fitting ones I have ever seen. I can see the towers and bulkheads giving way easily .
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:28 AM   #873
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I got mine built over the past couple of days. This car is SOLID for a 10th scale. Everything went together perfectly with hardly any slop. The plastic is by far stronger than anything 10th scale I've built. First 10th scale I could use my power driver with no worries of stripping anything out.

Very very impressed with the car. The build quality is second to none imho. About what I expected from Xray. No slop. Very little flashing. Everything just feels well built and robust like an 8th scale.

I can't comment on the towers/bulkhead or diff gear situation as I haven't had mine on the track yet, but given how solid this car is built, my guess is that those are the weakest points. Something has to give and ballcups don't seem like they are going to popoff easily. Virtually no flex in the arms either (xray arms generally do not break. They will warp over time, but they don't snap all that often). Hinge pins seem solid unlike the stock Durango ones that bend if you just think about them wrong.
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:38 AM   #874
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Excited for you two. I start my build today when I get home from work.
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:55 PM   #875
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Can't wait to have mine going this weekend so I can run laps around you!
Will see Im getting real comfortable with the XB4 or I will just take u out
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:58 PM   #876
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Built the car over yesterday! Was really impressed with the build, no crappy plastic like rango/schumi which strips with power drivers. Shocks are very very light, feel like plastic almost. Do not know performance yet though. Make some squishy noises on compression ala durango so not yet upto kyosho. Lets see how they perform

Another thing I noticed is, its going to be cheap to keep the drive shafts fresh with http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/p...8c74992776cbad since all pins are 1/8 size. The main cost in schumacher and kyosho (still is) is replacing the drive shafts/outdrives. Xray solves this in 1/8 by making pins softer than outdrives so happy on that front.

Waiting for my new esc and should be good to run a few laps this weekend Super stoked that I went with this rather than the k1.

Also the ball cups are the most tight fitting ones I have ever seen. I can see the towers and bulkheads giving way easily .
the actual tool is pricey which will equal to about replacing 4 or more cva
but it is a must have if you run other cars that have the same 2mm pin I bought 1 & it works awesome
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:14 PM   #877
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the actual tool is pricey which will equal to about replacing 4 or more cva
but it is a must have if you run other cars that have the same 2mm pin I bought 1 & it works awesome
I bought it last year with my christmas bonus. Can't be happier. I have 3 1/8 xray chassis to take care of and now the 1/10 fits so great!
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:23 PM   #878
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I'm balancing the chassis up. I need 5g in the front right corner and that is the easy one to do, then I need to put 15g in the rear left corner. Any suggestions on how and where to mount this weight?
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:28 PM   #879
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I'm balancing the chassis up. I need 5g in the front right corner and that is the easy one to do, then I need to put 15g in the rear left corner. Any suggestions on how and where to mount this weight?
No suggestions, other than on the battery, but a question. How do you know you need that weight in those areas? Is it possible it's just a spring issue and setting preloads a little different will get you what you need? Having a corner to opposite corner weight issue is usually a tweak, a slightly bent anti-sway bar, or a set of springs that aren't perfectly equal.

My $.02.
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:33 PM   #880
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If you wanna be precise about it, it has been suggested to remove shocks and just use turnbuckles. Equal length L/R.
Then pop it on 4 scales. I do not balance offroad chassis' anymore though .
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:36 PM   #881
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If you wanna be precise about it, it has been suggested to remove shocks and just use turnbuckles. Equal length L/R.
Then pop it on 4 scales. I do not balance offroad chassis' anymore though .
This is nearly impossible to get right, even .1mm off on the turnbuckles will yield wildly incorrect corner weights. I also agree, corner weighting offroad cars isn't real useful, but if you are going to, do it with preloads and be happy, just make sure the car balances left to right on pegs or otherwise.
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:39 PM   #882
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This is nearly impossible to get right, even .1mm off on the turnbuckles will yield wildly incorrect corner weights. I also agree, corner weighting offroad cars isn't real useful, but if you are going to, do it with preloads and be happy, just make sure the car balances left to right on pegs or otherwise.
yeah i started doing that, then realised its not a TC with a side mount motor. That huge fricking motor has a butt load of torque which unloads/loads the opposite side during acceleration/braking.
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:51 PM   #883
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On the step where you add oil to the diff cups, the manual says the diff cup assembly weighs 9.80g but both of mine weighed 9.63g. It wanted me to add 1.32g of oil per assembly but the oil covered the cross arms when I got to 10.75g, which is a lot less oil. (I know that 0.2g doesn't sound like a lot of oil but it really is!) I suspect that not overfilling the diff cups is pretty important so do you think I did the right thing?

The weighing thing is kind of useless unless I am just doing it wrong. (Just breathing on the scale makes it change!)

So far the build is pretty nice. I am impressed with the quality of the plastic. I hate parts trees but getting the satellite and sun gears out of their trees was pretty easy. I like how they used 4 injection points per part to fill the mold so the sprue is very small.

I'm a slow builder so that is as far as I got tonight.
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Old 01-02-2013, 06:00 PM   #884
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yep i like the way the gears were made. just googled sprue :P i had no clue. I guess they did do it to save weight and not cost. The metal gear pricing is similar on the nt1 as well . I am going to go with the stockers for now. Anyone found a better source for the nt1 gears and cross pins in the states? Hate ebaying it since it takes forever to get here.
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Old 01-02-2013, 06:14 PM   #885
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If you notice they used more plastic material on the mold part than the actual gear!

Did you sand off the micro-spues that were left behind? I was going to but they were so small I didn't think they mattered.

I did *lightly* sand the face of each diff cup though. I got in that habit from my RC8.2e. I hate leaky diffs!

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