ResultsRC

iTrader: (1)

how did this turn out for u,where cases worn or just the shim needed.I run a pretty tight slipper on a semi rough dirt track,maybe this is what takes them out, My pinion gear is stripping at about the half way point,should they be in full contact all the way up the gear

Marco926

i did it..... for example, first small 0.3mm between pinion and the axle(inside the pinion), then large 0.3mm between bb and the pinion.......u need to insert both at the same time

ResultsRC

iTrader: (1)

so your talking about putting multiple shims on both sides of the bearing? does this give you full contact on the pinion gear?

Its strange never had a issue with this,until a small lip developed on the bottom of a wall ride and the car would catch it pretty hard,wouldnt stop the car but really jerked it,2 diff xb4 cars i have started having this issue on both front and rear diffs

Marco926

no.....i put shims for the pinion, not for the diff.....contact area will be larger but still not full contact..........just better

ResultsRC

iTrader: (1)

im talking about the bearing that slides on the bevel drive gear or pinion gear,diff name same part right? so shim on both sides of that bearing?

HSV427

iTrader: (30)

I tried the shimming and it still happened only took longer, I'm also striping at halfway on the pinion, i decided before i change the housings to try composite diff gear and composite bevel gear and my problem is fixed i haven't stripped a composite gear yet.

HSV427

iTrader: (30)

For some reason when i bought the new kit the bevel gear lasted a good 6 months of driving at least a couple off days a week before i stripped one, but as soon as the first one went every one after that lasted a race day if lucky which kind of tells me it must be because the diff housing is getting worn out.

ResultsRC

iTrader: (1)

same thing happened to me but my diff case has been replaced because it broke twice. the top brakes off when landing hard

Slapjack

iTrader: (19)

I have a couple questions...
1. Is the servo linkage supposed to be angled like this. When I turn left the linkage almost touches the top deck plate. It doesn't but there is probably only about .001" between the linkage and the bottom of the top deck. I am using an alum horn not one of the plastic ones. so maybe that is why. If I drop the linkage down one hole on the arm the linkage hits the top of the servo at full turn left.


Is the slipper assembly supposed to be able to move back and forth in the mount? Or should it be shimmed so there is no back and forth movement? I am used to 8th scale buggies with a CD. I have never had a slipper before. I am also wondering is this slipper just as good as a CD? With a CD power is transferred front to back as needed. I don't see how the slipper would do that. So it seems like on the xb4 power can only be transferred side to side through the front and rear diffs? Or am I looking at this wrong?

GrandeGixxer

iTrader: (21)

I prefer the gear diff in the middle.

Slapjack

iTrader: (19)

Pretty sure I will too. Is there an option to do the gear diff with the 2014? version or just the 2015?

GrandeGixxer

iTrader: (21)

I have no idea about the '14, I have only owned the '15. Moreso, it owns me... :0

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

2015 only unless you want to modify your chassis. Someone posted a while back how to do it.

punkracer24

iTrader: (13)

slap, can you check the height of the aluminum horn vs the stock plastic? maybe its a little taller?

Slapjack

iTrader: (19)

Yea, it is slightly taller. Is there really any benefit to using an aluminum horn in 10th scale? I am just used to swapping out for aluminum cause I always do that in my 8th scale stuff. But with the smaller cars there isn't as much torque coming from the servo and not a lot of weight on the wheels adding more stress.
I am also wondering does anyone run the exotek steering crank that eliminates the servo saver? Does it help with steering and make it feel more precise? I was about to buy it then I saw that it eliminates the saver and that made me a little nervous. Or would I just be better off getting the aluminum servo saver arms? Are these an Xray made part or no? http://www.ebay.com/itm/361226553081...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Also any other input on other exotek parts like the rear hubs and front caster hubs?
Should I be looking into Exotek parts or Spec R when buying these types of upgrades?