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Old 08-14-2015, 03:45 AM   #8641
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Originally Posted by likea45 View Post
I've ordered the rear 1.6s and the entire bearing kit for the car as well.
Honestly I'm pretty happy with the stock Pistons in the front dampers. I'm going to leave those for now. However the rear has been too hard with the stock Pistons and has been tossing the back end up even with light weight oil and lighter springs. New Pistons will hopefully calm it down and make the rear more plush.
You have made the right decision the car will feel a lot more plush and the rear end is dramatically calmed down, i personally was astonished at the difference, even when you hold them in your hand you can see the quality, and as some one mentioned earlier the fit is perfect and you don't get any blow by like the stock ones which is a shame cause XRAY stuff is usually top notch.
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Old 08-14-2015, 03:44 PM   #8642
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You have made the right decision the car will feel a lot more plush and the rear end is dramatically calmed down, i personally was astonished at the difference, even when you hold them in your hand you can see the quality, and as some one mentioned earlier the fit is perfect and you don't get any blow by like the stock ones which is a shame cause XRAY stuff is usually top notch.
Exactly, that is why I don't understand some top brands like Xray and others that don't go with the CNC made pistons when they put so much effort into the cars in all other places of the kit. Many would say that this will not make the big difference all in all on the track, but all the small things like this will add up and all those loose variables on a car like this will be eliminated, hence making the car more consistent. And not to forget the part where you will eliminate the part where you will get uneven pistons. I mounted the shock with the stock piston before I got the Avid CNC ones, and I measured them to be off by .4 mm each. That is much when it comes to fine tuning the shocks.

I hope that they would at least have parts like this as an option and TBH ditch the plastic tree piston for good. But most likely not, as many are pleased with them as is, and you get allot of option to choose from for a low cost production to add to a kit. That's why they will most likely always be there.

So, as an option part is the way to go I guess right?
Not always we would get CNC pistons as an 3rd party production for all types of cars out there either. The salvation is that most CNC pistons cross-fit anyways.

My two cents...
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Old 08-15-2015, 08:53 AM   #8643
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Well, what's funny is that Xray never even offered up machined pistons as an upgrade, I mean, AE and TLR offer machined pistons for $13 for a set, it's a built in money maker!

Perhaps seeing the new AE shocks with their special Fox coating, screw in pistons and new shock shaft coatings for an additional $100, that the next big thing for the XB4 will be completely upgraded shocks with machined bushings as well. More reason to upgrade right? Ya gotta have it! Lol.

Last edited by HeavyD99; 08-16-2015 at 08:00 AM.
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Old 08-15-2015, 09:09 AM   #8644
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Well, what's funny is that Xray never even offered up machined pistons as an upgrade, I mean, AE and TLR offer machined pistons for $13 for a set, it's a built in money maker!

Perhaps seeing the new AE shocks with their special Fox coating, screw in pistons and new coatings for an additional $100 that the next big thing for the XB4 will be upgraded shocks, machined pistons, new coating shafts and machined bushings as well. More reason to upgrade right? Ya gotta have it! Lol.
I've been using AE B5 shocks and springs on my xb4 for a few months now. They are a direct fit, although you also need the associated standoffs and longer screws. A definite improvement over the X-ray shocks and they make the car feel a lot better, IMO.
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Old 08-15-2015, 12:17 PM   #8645
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Xray shocks get dirty oil so fast!!!!.
Not a fan either
Doing 12 to 15 packs in one night on my buds back yard track prob doesnt help though....heres the track.
Watch "Drc late nite" on YouTube
https://youtu.be/7TPZWvezcPw
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Old 08-17-2015, 08:46 AM   #8646
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Xray shocks get dirty oil so fast!!!!.
Not a fan either
Doing 12 to 15 packs in one night on my buds back yard track prob doesnt help though....heres the track.
Watch "Drc late nite" on YouTube
https://youtu.be/7TPZWvezcPw

I agree with you. Don't know how it comes get dirty easily shock oil. My tekno sct410.3 and run 10 times pack than my xray '15 but the shock oil still look fresh.
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Old 08-17-2015, 10:30 AM   #8647
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Originally Posted by raved007 View Post
I agree with you. Don't know how it comes get dirty easily shock oil. My tekno sct410.3 and run 10 times pack than my xray '15 but the shock oil still look fresh.
Are you running boots vs. no boots on the tekno? The boots make a big difference in keeping the oil clean.
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Old 08-17-2015, 01:08 PM   #8648
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeavyD99 View Post
Well, what's funny is that Xray never even offered up machined pistons as an upgrade, I mean, AE and TLR offer machined pistons for $13 for a set, it's a built in money maker!

Perhaps seeing the new AE shocks with their special Fox coating, screw in pistons and new shock shaft coatings for an additional $100, that the next big thing for the XB4 will be completely upgraded shocks with machined bushings as well. More reason to upgrade right? Ya gotta have it! Lol.
+1, and that is what Xray needs to 'upgrade' to the next years editions of their cars. They do not need to hunt the ghost that is called 'We need to find a new revolutionary new concept for this car next years also'. Just refine what they have man, and CNC pistons are one of the things they need to address. They have 'luxury' in the name titles for many of their kits, or at least on the T4, so why not actually be that then and ad CNC pistons?
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Old 08-17-2015, 02:44 PM   #8649
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Originally Posted by Mizchief View Post
Are you running boots vs. no boots on the tekno? The boots make a big difference in keeping the oil clean.
Good point thats a different from my tekno because of the shock boot 😀
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Old 08-17-2015, 05:11 PM   #8650
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I guess luxury means , high maintenance. Haha
Thats wheeler I guess. At least this kit is easy and fun to work on ?;@)
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Old 08-18-2015, 05:06 PM   #8651
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Originally Posted by Freeski View Post
As the title says, I am in search of more in corner steering. My situation is that the initial turn in is good, but once the car is in the middle of the turn, it feels like I have to get off the throttle, wait for the car to rotate and then I can get back on the throttle for exiting the corner.

Basically, the car has a bit of hesitation or "stalling" in the middle of the corner. I have experimented with freeing up the rear end, but after trying different toe settings/track width options, I settled with what I started with prior to experimenting because the car felt the most natural for my driving style.

I am attaching a copy of my setup sheet and I run on medium to medium-high grip indoor clay.http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...2015110154.pdf**I made a mistake on the setup sheet,I am using the stock hubs of 9 degrees. Also run no top decks, but do run the optional graphite stiffeners, x brace, and floating servo mount.

The only change I have made since the setup sheet is to adjust the rear toe to 3 degrees. That helped the car rotate better.

- Would using the front hole on the steering rack give me more in corner steering? (I am currently using the rear hole)
- For those of you that have used the optional 4 hole steering rack (#362573), How did the different hole options affect in corner steering?

Any help is welcome. Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
Take a look at Leon's setup he posted a couple posts before yours. I think if you keep your current shock setup maybe going down to 37.5/27.5 in oils and using his arm mount positions you should have plenty of steering. Also take off the front sway bar. Having really heavy center diff fluid doesn't help off power steering either. Maybe try 100k to 200k.
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Originally Posted by TV View Post
Freeski, I'd start with no sway-bar. It'll give you more steering, and make the steering feel more linear. If you still feel like you need more steering, move the front shocks in on the tower and the arm, and add another downstop shim. I'd always leave the rear toe at 3 degrees.
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Originally Posted by LAGuy View Post
The forward hole would reduce the amount of ackerman in the steering. Meaning the inner front wheel would turn at a similar radius as the outside front wheel. For tight turns, more ackerman, the inner wheel turns sharper than the outside wheel, would have more overall steering and better turn in.
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Originally Posted by Peakki View Post
With Std plastic steering rack front hole is better IMO. steering stays more the same during the corner. With Rear hole it turns it better but after that it is not so good.
I recommended alu steering rack, and inner rear hole. It is between of std plastic rack holes.
First, thank you for all that made suggestions. It really got me pointed in the right direction. I am including the original post along with the responses in case someone is in the same boat and this will help.

Here is the setup sheet of the setup that I am currently using. I know that the setup is track dependent and also depends on driving style, but the car has never felt better than this.http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...1&d=1439940902CORRECTION: I DID use all chassis screws even though the setup sheet shows 3/4 used

By moving the front shock to the inner hole on the tower and also moving the front shock to the inner hole on the arm as well, it gave me the steering I was looking for and basically eliminated the mid corner stall I was experiencing. This was a great tip.

As suggested, I did try no front sway bar, but although the car had very linear steering, it didn't fit my driving style. For me, the car pushed a little more than I liked and I felt like I was better off with both front and rear sway bars being used. I started with stock sway bars (f/r/1.2), but the car felt a little twitchy. I then went to (f/r 1.1) and that calmed the car down and was better.

Because the car handled great with the 1.2 f/r sway bars(great rotation, but was twitchy), I decided to try the front arm graphite stiffeners in the hope that it would calm the steering down a bit, but still provide the awesome rotation while in the corner. I always thought of the graphite arm stiffeners as a carpet only option, but I can tell you from personal experience that if you want to take away a hair bit of steering and want to calm the car down from being too twitchy, this option worked great. NOTE: you can get the car to calm down by using the 1.1 f/r sway bar if you don't have access to the arm stiffeners

I did order the 4 hole aluminum steering rack made by xray. Like some have mentioned before, the holes on the 4 hole rack do not line up with the holes of the stock rack. The front hole of the 4 hole rack falls in between the front and rear hole of the stock rack. So the 4 hole rack offers four completely different hole locations than the stock rack provides.

Lastly, the shock oils I am using are a bit higher than I would normally use. The layout we currently have needs a little higher oil or else the chassis slaps hard in certain sections, but I have used AE 40wt in front and AE 32.5 wt in the rear with great success.

I hope this helps someone as much as you guys have helped me. Thanks.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf xb4 setup sheet-08182015151750.pdf (189.2 KB, 68 views)

Last edited by Freeski; 08-18-2015 at 07:24 PM.
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Old 08-18-2015, 06:58 PM   #8652
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Originally Posted by BDRMBULLY View Post
I guess luxury means , high maintenance. Haha
Thats wheeler I guess. At least this kit is easy and fun to work on ?;@)
Lol yea trying to change the front diff fluid on the 44.3 was enough to make me sell it and get an xray.
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Old 08-18-2015, 11:15 PM   #8653
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my 15 with no top decks running chassis braces on low bite track
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RdHJKCi8aWU
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Old 08-19-2015, 09:00 AM   #8654
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my 15 with no top decks running chassis braces on low bite track
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RdHJKCi8aWU
Great driving skills.Could you share your setup
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Old 08-19-2015, 06:29 PM   #8655
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What brand of shock oil are you guys using?
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