Xray XB4 thread
#8491
Thanks Freeski for that very well written report, you've described my situation as well, so I will look to try the new lower stiffeners now.
Would you mind posting your set up as well?
My track is a little larger than yours, but similar in a number of ways as well with respect to grip and layout.
Would you mind posting your set up as well?
My track is a little larger than yours, but similar in a number of ways as well with respect to grip and layout.
I made a mistake with the c-hubs. I used stock which is 9 degrees and I accidentally put 6 on the setup sheet.
Last edited by Freeski; 06-26-2015 at 10:39 AM.
#8492
I would suggest going with the graphite composite. I have them throughout all 3 diffs as well as crown and drive pinions. They are smooth as silk, very quiet and again I have had no issues thus running 300k in the C DIff. I also tried the slipper once and had her really tight to obtain some serious snap, thus I had no issues. Break them in by running a pack through nice and gentle to start.
#8493
Tech Elite
iTrader: (33)
I have tried basically all combinations and this is what I found, for me. My normal track is indoor medium to medium-high grip. It is SCVRC for anyone who is familiar.
I started with "stock" with both top decks installed and the car is very predictable. The current layout has some sharp 180 degree turns and with both top decks installed, I was having a hard time getting the car to have enough grip and rotate properly so my next step was to allow the car to have more flex.
Next, I ran the car with no rear top deck, but still with the front deck installed. You instantly notice the difference and while the car felt better initially, I found this setup a bit inconsistent. What I mean is that I expected to have more rear grip, but it is ALOT of flex and it gets a little unpredictable, especially in the rear end. Seemed like it was too much flex directed to the rear. I found myself chasing the rear end and wanting more rear grip. I had plenty of steering, but the rear would step out on me without much warning.
I then put the rear top deck back on and ran with both top decks, but removed all of the optional flex screws on the bottom of the chassis. This was good and got its predictability back, but the car never felt like it reached its full potential. I would say that the car was consistent and predictable, but not as fast as it could be.
Then, Xray released the #361168 option which allows you to completely remove the front and rear top deck and that is what I tried next. I used the x brace #361173 in addition to the #361168 and this is when the car came alive. I used all flex screws in the chassis and all flex screws on the #361168 braces and the car has plenty of grip and rotates extremely well. It is better in every way. More forward grip, more side grip, rotates better, and is consistent. If anyone is on the fence about trying this option, it is probably one of the best tuning options available.
At the end of the day, adding/removing the top decks affects flex of the car. At this point, I can't see any need to go back to having the front and rear top deck. The options xray released just make the car better(for me at my track). One thing to note is I also found the floating servo mount to make the car better in terms of evening out the flex. I also run in shorty configuration.
Hope this helps.
I started with "stock" with both top decks installed and the car is very predictable. The current layout has some sharp 180 degree turns and with both top decks installed, I was having a hard time getting the car to have enough grip and rotate properly so my next step was to allow the car to have more flex.
Next, I ran the car with no rear top deck, but still with the front deck installed. You instantly notice the difference and while the car felt better initially, I found this setup a bit inconsistent. What I mean is that I expected to have more rear grip, but it is ALOT of flex and it gets a little unpredictable, especially in the rear end. Seemed like it was too much flex directed to the rear. I found myself chasing the rear end and wanting more rear grip. I had plenty of steering, but the rear would step out on me without much warning.
I then put the rear top deck back on and ran with both top decks, but removed all of the optional flex screws on the bottom of the chassis. This was good and got its predictability back, but the car never felt like it reached its full potential. I would say that the car was consistent and predictable, but not as fast as it could be.
Then, Xray released the #361168 option which allows you to completely remove the front and rear top deck and that is what I tried next. I used the x brace #361173 in addition to the #361168 and this is when the car came alive. I used all flex screws in the chassis and all flex screws on the #361168 braces and the car has plenty of grip and rotates extremely well. It is better in every way. More forward grip, more side grip, rotates better, and is consistent. If anyone is on the fence about trying this option, it is probably one of the best tuning options available.
At the end of the day, adding/removing the top decks affects flex of the car. At this point, I can't see any need to go back to having the front and rear top deck. The options xray released just make the car better(for me at my track). One thing to note is I also found the floating servo mount to make the car better in terms of evening out the flex. I also run in shorty configuration.
Hope this helps.
#8498
#8499
Tech Elite
iTrader: (33)
I'm a big fan of the Vik Reedy setup with saddles. I ran it on several different tracks from low bite to high bite and only required minor changes. On low bite 7k/3k diff fluids and either remove shock limiters or unscrew shock ends to get more droop. The stock 3 hole pistons are ok, I prefer the Avids. If you have a 2015 the center diff will work great with 100k to 300k depending on traction. Remove the chassis flex screws for low bite.
#8500
Tech Addict
iTrader: (30)
I think in most cases you prob have a worn diff case even though its not cracked or broken its prob time to replace it and a small shim to push the lil gear closer to the bigger gear helps alot. I just over hauled my 13 with new cases and bearings due to sloppy bearings in the cases .
All the best.
All the best.
#8501
Tech Addict
iTrader: (30)
I have tried basically all combinations and this is what I found, for me. My normal track is indoor medium to medium-high grip. It is SCVRC for anyone who is familiar.
I started with "stock" with both top decks installed and the car is very predictable. The current layout has some sharp 180 degree turns and with both top decks installed, I was having a hard time getting the car to have enough grip and rotate properly so my next step was to allow the car to have more flex.
Next, I ran the car with no rear top deck, but still with the front deck installed. You instantly notice the difference and while the car felt better initially, I found this setup a bit inconsistent. What I mean is that I expected to have more rear grip, but it is ALOT of flex and it gets a little unpredictable, especially in the rear end. Seemed like it was too much flex directed to the rear. I found myself chasing the rear end and wanting more rear grip. I had plenty of steering, but the rear would step out on me without much warning.
I then put the rear top deck back on and ran with both top decks, but removed all of the optional flex screws on the bottom of the chassis. This was good and got its predictability back, but the car never felt like it reached its full potential. I would say that the car was consistent and predictable, but not as fast as it could be.
Then, Xray released the #361168 option which allows you to completely remove the front and rear top deck and that is what I tried next. I used the x brace #361173 in addition to the #361168 and this is when the car came alive. I used all flex screws in the chassis and all flex screws on the #361168 braces and the car has plenty of grip and rotates extremely well. It is better in every way. More forward grip, more side grip, rotates better, and is consistent. If anyone is on the fence about trying this option, it is probably one of the best tuning options available.
At the end of the day, adding/removing the top decks affects flex of the car. At this point, I can't see any need to go back to having the front and rear top deck. The options xray released just make the car better(for me at my track). One thing to note is I also found the floating servo mount to make the car better in terms of evening out the flex. I also run in shorty configuration.
Hope this helps.
I started with "stock" with both top decks installed and the car is very predictable. The current layout has some sharp 180 degree turns and with both top decks installed, I was having a hard time getting the car to have enough grip and rotate properly so my next step was to allow the car to have more flex.
Next, I ran the car with no rear top deck, but still with the front deck installed. You instantly notice the difference and while the car felt better initially, I found this setup a bit inconsistent. What I mean is that I expected to have more rear grip, but it is ALOT of flex and it gets a little unpredictable, especially in the rear end. Seemed like it was too much flex directed to the rear. I found myself chasing the rear end and wanting more rear grip. I had plenty of steering, but the rear would step out on me without much warning.
I then put the rear top deck back on and ran with both top decks, but removed all of the optional flex screws on the bottom of the chassis. This was good and got its predictability back, but the car never felt like it reached its full potential. I would say that the car was consistent and predictable, but not as fast as it could be.
Then, Xray released the #361168 option which allows you to completely remove the front and rear top deck and that is what I tried next. I used the x brace #361173 in addition to the #361168 and this is when the car came alive. I used all flex screws in the chassis and all flex screws on the #361168 braces and the car has plenty of grip and rotates extremely well. It is better in every way. More forward grip, more side grip, rotates better, and is consistent. If anyone is on the fence about trying this option, it is probably one of the best tuning options available.
At the end of the day, adding/removing the top decks affects flex of the car. At this point, I can't see any need to go back to having the front and rear top deck. The options xray released just make the car better(for me at my track). One thing to note is I also found the floating servo mount to make the car better in terms of evening out the flex. I also run in shorty configuration.
Hope this helps.
#8502
#8504
Sign in and you will we see the prices without the 20 percent VAT. Again a great place with everything XRAY.
Best.