noworries

iTrader: (42)

Anyone give me feedback on Saddle vs shorty? Thanks.

Norse

iTrader: (43)

That makes sense. Do you all have any nice outdoor tracks in your area? If you ever are going to be in the LaCrosse area, let me know as we have a nice outdoor facility with 2 tracks. There is a nice 10th scale track in which we run SC, wheeler and 2wd buggy as well as a very large 8th scale track. The 8th scale track has just been redesigned and in doing so it is now freindly to the 10th scalers.

Have a great week my friend.

Norse

iTrader: (43)

Need a little set-up advice? The new track layout I am running is much much bigger. Packed dirt that can go from moist to dust within the day. Lots of bumps , large elevation changes and some larger jumps. Thus as well massive areas for speed runs.
I defiently need more suspension travel. Currently I am running badically the default set-up with the following differences being Schelle 1.5 1.1 fronts 32.5wt stock spring and Schelle 1.6 1.1 rears 27.5wt 1 dot rear spring. I definetly know I will need to go up on shock weight. Also running Kit Front way bar and no rear sway, no rear top deck with multi flex at its fullest allowable flex.

Basically need advice on hinge pin place ment front and rear as well as shock placement both tower and a arms.

Advice appreciated as my thoughts are the need for more suspension and possible wider stance.

Oh! Running saddle config. 5k 200k 3k which I will be bumping up the center diff weight and keeping the 5k front 3k rear as this works well.


Thanks

Norse

iTrader: (43)

I think saddle config. Is better on loose tracks being outdoor packed dirt.

TonyD.

iTrader: (43)

can you convert the xb4 2015 spec into a 2wd? does the front of the chassis need to that much kick up?

Daniel Kies

iTrader: (3)

I currently have a XB4'13 2WD, started as 4wd but took the front drive shafts, diff and bevel out and the car worked great until....I left the front centre drives shaft in and now sure why but I turned the bearings purple and melted the caseing. I still have the 4wd out drives on front, I race on carpet and I'm only about 0.5 a lap slower than my fastest 4wd time....I don't think the XB4'15 would work with a centre diff as all the power will go to the front of the car, you need to run the slipper and set to your liking. I'm still running no kick up on the front like the proper 2wd has and it is such an easy and fast car to drive, to be honest I like it better 2wd than 4wd.

TonyD.

iTrader: (43)

could you put up some pics

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

I ran saddles on my 2014 car last year on everything from low bite to super high bite and it worked great everywhere with minimum setup changes. That was with gear diffs. On my 2015 car I initially built it with saddles and ball diffs and it was really good on med bite. I went to shorty and it was more agile for sure, maybe not quite as easy to drive. That was still with ball diffs. I tried the gear diffs and the car definitely lost some forward bite and couldn't lay the power down as well, minor difference but noticeable.

So in conclusion if you're going to run on a variety of surfaces I would go with saddles. If only medium to high bite shorty is more agile. I scaled the car in both configurations and it was 47f/53r with saddles and 48f/52r with shorty. Not a huge difference but enough to feel. But the side to side balance was much closer with saddles, pretty much spot on 50/50. And those numbers were with a fairly small saddle pack, I think 5300 mah.

And fwiw, imo ball diffs are the way to go for maximum performance. I know they're expensive and a pain to deal with but they widen the window of surfaces the car works on with both shorty and saddles.

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

You can get more travel by using no limiters in the shocks and unscrewing the shock ends. Or a more drastic change would be to move the shock positions to inside on arms but will probably require heavier oil, springs and possibly internal limiters. Main thing is take a look at where the drive shafts enter the outdrives and make sure there's no binding at full droop and they're not so close to the end of the outdrive slots that they may pop out in a hard hit. Maybe try widening the car, but in my experience it will take away some traction and the car will feel lazier. Might not be a bad thing depending on what you want.

I think the stock hinge pin locations are pretty good. I tend to change the front more than the rear depending on track. A lower roll center (hinge pins down) in front gives less steering and slows down steering reaction. I usually run .5 up in the front and dial out some steering with epa.

noworries

iTrader: (42)

thanks for your input/help.

DIRT DIGGER

iTrader: (4)

hello im running on a low/med bite slick track running gear diffs front and rear. has anyone tried the ball diffs? wondering if ball diffs are worth getting to get most traction?

bd581

See the quote in the reply directly above your post.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

HAHAHAHA. Dirt you crack me up. every post about every car is traction. you keep getting new cars and post about wanting more traction. lol. funny stuff

DIRT DIGGER

iTrader: (4)

[QUOTE=Wildcat1971;13986118]HAHAHAHA. Dirt you crack me up. every post about every car is traction. you keep getting new cars and post about wanting more traction. lol. funny stuff[/QUO

Norse

iTrader: (43)

Thank you RCGOD,

I will try you suggestion putting shock placemeny on the inner arm holes as I need alot of big time extra travel for this track. In addition how about dropping the hinge pins down fully both front and rear while keeping the track width stock center.

Thanks brother! Your knowlege is greatly appreciated my fiend.