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Old 04-23-2015, 06:59 AM   #8056
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303127-K

You can use this spacer from the XB4 2wd
Thanks for the info Boz and much appreciation for the help.

have a great rest of your week
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Old 04-23-2015, 07:02 AM   #8057
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I think that camber link brace was to stop the inner ball stud ripping though the shock tower, nothing to do with the bulkhead breaking.

First thing I noticed when I built mine was that there wasn't a lot of the flat part of the ball stud sitting on the shock tower, meant it could twist in a crash, I just used washers and flanged nuts and haven't had a problem there.

Like I said before, the Rall Racing bulkhead saver is a god send, going by how the kit one broke, I'm sure the saver has stopped me having a breakage since.
Thanks John for posting the pic and info on The Rall Racing bulkhead saver.
Much appreciated my friend.

Have a great rest of your week.
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Old 04-23-2015, 07:37 AM   #8058
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303127-K

You can use this spacer from the XB4 2wd
I was mulling this over recently as well...the new '15 std clay set up calls for 4mm in bump steer spacers on the std steering rack. I noticed that the steering rack on the '15 vs. '14/13 is 3mm taller, so I guess this is meant to put it back in that ballpark setting. Hmm.
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Old 04-23-2015, 09:39 AM   #8059
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Originally Posted by Norse View Post
Hey Eric,

Can you use CA glue in conjunction with some accelerator(Bob Smith Industries) CA on one edge and accelerator on the other edge.

I could be totally wrong as I am not positive on how this combo works on CF but I do know it works like magic in securing broken plastic/composite parts..

have a great rest of your week
I'm starting to wonder what is likely to break or be damaged if anything if I just run with it broken and it isn't connected to the front bulkhead? I may try this option unless I risk tweaking the chassis or other costly parts being damaged for one last race day.
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Old 04-23-2015, 09:43 AM   #8060
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I was mulling this over recently as well...the new '15 std clay set up calls for 4mm in bump steer spacers on the std steering rack. I noticed that the steering rack on the '15 vs. '14/13 is 3mm taller, so I guess this is meant to put it back in that ballpark setting. Hmm.
Hey Heavy,

You are spot on brother. Do you have the new 4 hole steering plate? It is thinner than the stock composite plate but still sits higher regarding ball stud placement.
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Old 04-23-2015, 10:10 AM   #8061
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I'm starting to wonder what is likely to break or be damaged if anything if I just run with it broken and it isn't connected to the front bulkhead? I may try this option unless I risk tweaking the chassis or other costly parts being damaged for one last race day.
If you run with out the front top deck I would definitely have all the front multi-flex chassis screw secured and most likely the rear as well. If your broken top CF deck has a long enough piece,as I dont know where it broke, one could cut a piece to the length of the multi-flex chassis brace. Thus make a couple pilot holes on the top side of the mfc brace and thus screw the piece of CF flush on top on the chassis brace.

Or you could glue it at the break and thus possibly glue a plastic brace on the top side and bottom. Clamp it and let sit until the bond sets. Basically sandwiching the CF brace. Not sure if you have a place where you could buy some CF, thus trace out the pattern and cut a new one via a Dremel or even better a table jig saw.

Not sure these thoughts will work brother as It sounds crued, but maybe it will work in helping your chassis from tweaking at least long enough until you can get a new front top deck.

Hey have a nice rest of your week and sorry to hear your front deck is broke as that really stinks.

Oh! are you running shorty or saddle?
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Old 04-23-2015, 11:57 AM   #8062
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Originally Posted by Norse View Post
Hey Heavy,

You are spot on brother. Do you have the new 4 hole steering plate? It is thinner than the stock composite plate but still sits higher regarding ball stud placement.
Hey Norse, no, I currently run the aluminum Exoteck steering rack....wasn't sure if there was any point to the newer 4 hole rack until I read that the holes are all different and do not match up to the old rack...
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Old 04-23-2015, 12:15 PM   #8063
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Originally Posted by Norse View Post
Thanks John for posting the pic and info on The Rall Racing bulkhead saver.
Much appreciated my friend.

Have a great rest of your week.
Your welcome fella
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Old 04-23-2015, 02:57 PM   #8064
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Default Loose dusty setup



Ran yesterday out at Dave's RC Tracks near Portland, OR. First time out this year with the XB4 2015. It is a loose dusty track that develops about a 3 foot line outside of which is most of the dust. Tires are typically super soft double dees, holeshots, or impacts. On race day a quick watering happens between heats (there is a sprinkler system). This usually provides a bit more traction for the first 2-3 minutes as the track dries out through your heat.

I played with setup all day and got my car pretty good, but still could use more rear grip. Setup is: 37.5 front 1.5+1.1 avid and 3 dot fronts, 32.5 rear 1.6+1.1 avid and 1 dot rears, low roll center rear with 4 degrees tow, shorty pack servo on right. 5k front and 2k rear diffs, no sway bars.

I ran both the slipper and 500,000 center diff.

A friend running the PR wheeler is trying out 20k center and wants to try 7k. I see this type of setup is also used on low bite ebuggy.

Does anyone have experience with low bite dusty tracks and lighter weight center gear diff? I will try 20k and 100k next time I am out but any help would be good.

I also plan to add some weight to the rear.

Troy
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Old 04-23-2015, 03:21 PM   #8065
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To me, that track is more suited to running saddle pack than the shorty. I'd start there.
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Old 04-23-2015, 04:02 PM   #8066
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or if you haven't already remove the rear top deck for more flex
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Old 04-23-2015, 04:28 PM   #8067
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Originally Posted by Troy Mckune View Post


Ran yesterday out at Dave's RC Tracks near Portland, OR. First time out this year with the XB4 2015. It is a loose dusty track that develops about a 3 foot line outside of which is most of the dust. Tires are typically super soft double dees, holeshots, or impacts. On race day a quick watering happens between heats (there is a sprinkler system). This usually provides a bit more traction for the first 2-3 minutes as the track dries out through your heat.

I played with setup all day and got my car pretty good, but still could use more rear grip. Setup is: 37.5 front 1.5+1.1 avid and 3 dot fronts, 32.5 rear 1.6+1.1 avid and 1 dot rears, low roll center rear with 4 degrees tow, shorty pack servo on right. 5k front and 2k rear diffs, no sway bars.

I ran both the slipper and 500,000 center diff.

A friend running the PR wheeler is trying out 20k center and wants to try 7k. I see this type of setup is also used on low bite ebuggy.

Does anyone have experience with low bite dusty tracks and lighter weight center gear diff? I will try 20k and 100k next time I am out but any help would be good.

I also plan to add some weight to the rear.

Troy
I would move rear hubs and arms forward, no rear deck, remove chassis stiffening screws, more droop, go down to 35/30 or 35/27.5 sock oil, higher ride height, and less camber. 100k in the center diff should be fine. You have a lot of rear toe in, if you get the rest of the setup better you can change to 3.5 if you need more on power steering.
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Old 04-23-2015, 06:10 PM   #8068
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I would move rear hubs and arms forward, no rear deck, remove chassis stiffening screws, more droop, go down to 35/30 or 35/27.5 sock oil, higher ride height, and less camber. 100k in the center diff should be fine. You have a lot of rear toe in, if you get the rest of the setup better you can change to 3.5 if you need more on power steering.

+1 on RCGods advice. I totally agree as I have used set-up advice from RCGOD and it has been really spot on.

Nice looking outdoor facility my friend.
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Old 04-23-2015, 06:14 PM   #8069
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I also agree with Heavy as saddles suit this type of track at least that would be my preference.
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Old 04-23-2015, 06:54 PM   #8070
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Originally Posted by Norse View Post
If you run with out the front top deck I would definitely have all the front multi-flex chassis screw secured and most likely the rear as well. If your broken top CF deck has a long enough piece,as I dont know where it broke, one could cut a piece to the length of the multi-flex chassis brace. Thus make a couple pilot holes on the top side of the mfc brace and thus screw the piece of CF flush on top on the chassis brace.

Or you could glue it at the break and thus possibly glue a plastic brace on the top side and bottom. Clamp it and let sit until the bond sets. Basically sandwiching the CF brace. Not sure if you have a place where you could buy some CF, thus trace out the pattern and cut a new one via a Dremel or even better a table jig saw.

Not sure these thoughts will work brother as It sounds crued, but maybe it will work in helping your chassis from tweaking at least long enough until you can get a new front top deck.

Hey have a nice rest of your week and sorry to hear your front deck is broke as that really stinks.

Oh! are you running shorty or saddle?
I think I have a workable option here, I cut some lexan pieces to fit the brace and aligned things up the best I could putting some ca glue on the broken area and sandwiched it between the lexan on both sides (top & bottom)then tightened it up in a vise and waited for it to dry. It seems pretty sturdy already, but I'll drill a hole on either side of the break and run a screw/nut in to add support to the lexan. I'll post pics when I'm done and I run saddles in this car which just works better where I race.
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Last edited by suzukipro; 04-24-2015 at 12:45 AM.
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