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Old 04-04-2015, 08:50 AM   #7861
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XRAY XB4 vented Aluminum Shock Caps Questions?

Do the bleeder screws on the shock caps need o-rings?
Do the shock cap shims act as seal as well? If so my guess would be to lightly grease them or lightly coat with Green Slime?

Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Norse, if you haven't bought them already, skip the pricey Xray caps and get the Exoteck caps, great quality, half the price. You'll need the Xray o-rings inside the bottom of the cap. They come with a small screw and o-ring as well. No green slime needed.
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Old 04-04-2015, 10:25 AM   #7862
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GS Hobby and Absolute Hobbyz are in U.S. based. Absolute is in New Jersey and GS hobby is in Arkansas.

GS hobby has free shipping on orders over $50.

Best regards and Happy Easter
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Yes, you'll need the small 2mm o-rings for the bleeder screw holes (exotek sells replacements), Not sure about shock cap shims, but I know you need an o-ring between the shock body & shock cap (can use one from the plastic caps too).
Thanks Eric much appreciated my friend.
That's what I was thinking so I ordered some 2mm o-rings from Sepent. The strange thing was the aluminum XRAY shock caps did not come with orings for the bleeder screws. They show the shock cap shims with no mention of using the shock cap oring. Thus i imagine you use both.
Thanks again and I hope to get up to Innovation real soon. I will let you know a couple days in advance.

Have a great Easter
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Old 04-04-2015, 10:35 AM   #7863
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Norse, if you haven't bought them already, skip the pricey Xray caps and get the Exoteck caps, great quality, half the price. You'll need the Xray o-rings inside the bottom of the cap. They come with a small screw and o-ring as well. No green slime needed.
Hey Heavy,

Unfortunately I already bought, received and opened them You are correct as $70 for 2 pairs is crazy and they didn't come with orings for the bleeder screws.
What is unclear on the directions is the use of the shock cap shim/bushing and shock cap oring. I guess the shock cap shim will lay over the o-rings inside the bottom of the cap.

Thanks again Heavy and have a Great Easter. Oh! How is the weather up in your area? Any outside track time yet?

Joel
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Old 04-04-2015, 10:47 AM   #7864
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Here's mine with the Finnisher fitted
Looks great John!

Have a great Easter.

Norse
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Old 04-04-2015, 10:56 AM   #7865
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@Norse, I am not sure of this shim you are talking about, as far as I know, under the cap only requires the larger 12mm o-ring...but anyhow no, no outdoor racing yet. It actually snowed this morning, most has already melted, so I'll say we are getting closer, we hope to race outdoors the first week of May, but don't plan a road trip just yet!
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Old 04-04-2015, 12:17 PM   #7866
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@Norse, I am not sure of this shim you are talking about, as far as I know, under the cap only requires the larger 12mm o-ring...but anyhow no, no outdoor racing yet. It actually snowed this morning, most has already melted, so I'll say we are getting closer, we hope to race outdoors the first week of May, but don't plan a road trip just yet!
Hey Heavy,

This shim is basically a rubber/flexible type flat washer that I guess gets installed in the shock cap. Anyhow I hope the weather improves sooner for you all. We have been lucky here in Wisconsin as Spring arrived early. Unlike last year in which we didn't get to run outside until the end of May. Let me know if you every get down this way as my friend has an excellent outdoor facility with 2 tracks, work areas etc.

Thanks brother and have a Great Easter.
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Old 04-04-2015, 01:18 PM   #7867
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Hey Heavy,

This shim is basically a rubber/flexible type flat washer that I guess gets installed in the shock cap. Anyhow I hope the weather improves sooner for you all. We have been lucky here in Wisconsin as Spring arrived early. Unlike last year in which we didn't get to run outside until the end of May. Let me know if you every get down this way as my friend has an excellent outdoor facility with 2 tracks, work areas etc.

Thanks brother and have a Great Easter.
Sounds to me like the thing your calling a shim IS an O-ring, and that is all you use in the cap.
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Old 04-04-2015, 04:46 PM   #7868
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Sounds to me like the thing your calling a shim IS an O-ring, and that is all you use in the cap.
Hey Kevin,

Yeah that's what I am thinking but was confused by them being advertised as (optional rubber shock absorber shim for use with the aluminum shock caps). Unlike the usual o-ring seals used these look like rubber flat washers/shims.

Thanks Kev, and Happy Easter.

GO BADGERS!!!!!
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Old 04-04-2015, 09:58 PM   #7869
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Norse, if you haven't bought them already, skip the pricey Xray caps and get the Exoteck caps, great quality, half the price. You'll need the Xray o-rings inside the bottom of the cap. They come with a small screw and o-ring as well. No green slime needed.
Or save even more $$ and get the Dhawk racing caps. Look great and work flawlessly.
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Old 04-05-2015, 09:10 AM   #7870
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Or save even more $$ and get the Dhawk racing caps. Look great and work flawlessly.
Spec R Racing has nice aluminum shock caps in black with their logo etched as well for $13.50 per pair. They currently have them in stock.
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Old 04-05-2015, 02:39 PM   #7871
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Looks great John!

Have a great Easter.

Norse
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Old 04-05-2015, 05:17 PM   #7872
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I'm thinking of picking this buggy up for local club racing. I've been out of the hobby for almost ten years (I last did indoor racing with an RC18T,) and I'm thinking I'd to get into 1/10 4wd buggies. Would a 10.5 be a good starting point for a medium size dirt track? What are a few must have extra parts/upgrades if any?
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Old 04-06-2015, 04:27 AM   #7873
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Has anyone tried the DHAWK carbon chassis and if so how did you find it .
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Old 04-06-2015, 08:15 AM   #7874
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I'm thinking of picking this buggy up for local club racing. I've been out of the hobby for almost ten years (I last did indoor racing with an RC18T,) and I'm thinking I'd to get into 1/10 4wd buggies. Would a 10.5 be a good starting point for a medium size dirt track? What are a few must have extra parts/upgrades if any?
It really depends on the length of the straight and traction. And what the other drivers are using. A 10.5 will be easy to drive but you will get killed on the straight unless you're ramping the timing or the straight is short. Personally I would never run anything less than an 8.5 and that would be on a really tight track. You can always turn down your epa if the motor is too fast or adjust the gearing imo.
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Old 04-06-2015, 10:13 AM   #7875
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Gotta say thanks to Bryan and the guys at RC America. I had a problem with a rear hex and also inquired about purchasing the updated rear hanger for my '13 car which was also off.

They sent the new hanger and hex no questions asked.

Thanks guys, D
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