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Old 12-28-2012, 03:10 PM   #766
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Finally finished with some paint on (and some retro decals from the Optima Mid series)

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Old 12-28-2012, 03:22 PM   #767
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How are people finding the diff after putting the steel gears and pins in (335030 & 335080)
Has it cured the diff problem?
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Old 12-28-2012, 03:31 PM   #768
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Originally Posted by dennisV View Post
I'm going to make some Plexi towers. I did that to my B44 a couple of years ago and they never broke and are cheap at 4$ a piece.

Even though I like the carbon towers though, but 70$ for two is just too much for me.
How did you do it? CNC machines? I am thinking of making mine from delrin.
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Old 12-28-2012, 03:37 PM   #769
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Originally Posted by losi b View Post
Test fit of 1st cut;

That looks nice
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Old 12-28-2012, 03:52 PM   #770
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It really looks like an AE spur, tried that one yet? They should make down to a 78 I believe.
I don't know why I haven't tried that one...
The 78 is exactly what I've got on the B44 at the moment.

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AE spurs do fit.
Thanks man.
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:01 PM   #771
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That looks nice
Keep your eyes on the TSR site for more XB4 products.
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Old 12-28-2012, 07:55 PM   #772
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Good run last night Steve! I'm looking forward to getting mine out on the track. Did you have any issues with the composite gears or did you switch more for peace of mind? I was planning out putting the metal gears in anyways because I like running with a tighter slipper.
I stripped 3 sets of rear diff composite spider gears. I allways blame myself. Probably "Operator Error". I read here the NT1 metal gears would work (same size)... Mikes had them in stock... so in they went. They worked great last night and for a couple practice runs tonight. My fingers are crossed it makes it through racing tomorrow. I pretty sure it will be fine. It's feeling realy good. A bit of oversteer on power. I think I'm going back to 5K in the rear diff in lieu of the 3K I'm currently running.
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:09 PM   #773
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I stripped 3 sets of rear diff composite spider gears. I allways blame myself. Probably "Operator Error". I read here the NT1 metal gears would work (same size)... Mikes had them in stock... so in they went. They worked great last night and for a couple practice runs tonight. My fingers are crossed it makes it through racing tomorrow. I pretty sure it will be fine. It's feeling realy good. A bit of oversteer on power. I think I'm going back to 5K in the rear diff in lieu of the 3K I'm currently running.
Did you try any shimming of the 3?
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:22 PM   #774
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Did you try any shimming of the 3?
Some of them look salvagable.
It was the larger gear (at top by the seal) that had the worst damage.
I'd say about 4 or 5 of the teeth were ground in half.

The answer to your shimming question is NO.
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:26 PM   #775
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1st outing with the XB4 at the local track no issue with the towers I sanded & CA them
Had a real good time driving it to the lipo cutoff kicked in
Excellent steering ran stock shock oil set up with 3 hole all around
diff 10F 5R I think I might go a bit thicker in the front since the bite is very good at the track
Ran 2 full packs on it & will test it a different track
all in all it's a blast to drive I let a friend take it for a spin he cartwheeled a couple of times no issue's at all
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:54 PM   #776
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XRay says explicitly not to shim the diffs. There isn't any room for internal shims, and, at least locally, I haven't seen anyone bust a ring & pinion.
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Old 12-28-2012, 09:46 PM   #777
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XRay says explicitly not to shim the diffs. There isn't any room for internal shims, and, at least locally, I haven't seen anyone bust a ring & pinion.
You are right about what they said, but they also said they would hold up.I believe the thought was that the parts would swell as they heated up. It doesnt look like they are. And the one guy who heard the noise and stopped his buggy in time, shimmed the diff and now they are fine......read back a page or so. Do you wanna continue to have them break or find a solution to the problem. Xray's driver's may be better than the average joe and the tracks maybe not as brutal. Their design is good and the metal's are second to none, but in the interest of saving weight and rotating mass, they went to composite on the diff gears and we see what the results are turning up. If a .1mm on each side of the diff like was done will fix the issue, I say lets see how it lasts. I read the forums on all brands of buggies cause I love the sport and like to learn. I've read on more than one brand where guys say"the diff seems pretty dang tight when I got it together" and they get replies saying mine was too, give a pack or so and it will wear in fine. Maybe thats what needed here is to build it kinda tight and let it find its groove. I dont want to see this buggy go down in flames or Xray abandon it from lack of sales. I'm for finding solutions and I think this is getting a good start in the right direction.
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:19 PM   #778
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Add another shock tower to the list. I broke mine tonight on the 4th pack. simple roll that basically should have popped a ballcup. Imo, the ballcups are where the problem lies. They don't pop. I did some messing around and the Xray cups fit the Losi 22 studs really well. There's just a little play in them unlike the all Xray setup and they pop of much easier, but not to easy. I'm converting my car over to all Losi studs for the race tomorrow.

Also, if anyone is racing the car this weekend and breaks a rear tower, I found a temporary fix. You can move the ballstud to the inside of the tower and use the holes where the rear body mount bracket screws in. The tierods just clear the springs and I had Kyosho springs on which are a little larger diameter than the Xrays. It does lengthen the camberlink a little, and the ballcups are screwed pretty far out, but you could compensate by moving to the inner hole on the hub. It's a quick fix to finish the raceday, and as a bonus, you get a vertical ballstud.
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:49 PM   #779
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:09 PM   #780
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I did see your image! Hehe... mounted the tower on the wrong side huh?
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