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Old 01-23-2015, 09:43 PM   #6616
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I'm feeling a bit like I might have dodged a bullet staying with my '14. Hope this gets worked out for everyone.
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Old 01-23-2015, 09:44 PM   #6617
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My phone won't allow multi photo upload.
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Old 01-23-2015, 09:58 PM   #6618
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Clearly it's off. Bottom line is that I just want xray to make it right for everybody and not feed a load of b.s. about it.
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Old 01-23-2015, 11:07 PM   #6619
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Does anyone have a 2014 and 2015 rear gearbox that can measure the distance off center of the arm mount holes? To see if they're the same? Like Kevin said, maybe the offset mount was required on the 2014 because the mold was off, and they fixed the mold on the 2015 but forgot to change the arm mounts. Idk just trying to track down the smoking gun.
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Old 01-23-2015, 11:26 PM   #6620
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Looking at the pic of the 2014 rear mount looks like it's off center like the 2015. I had a buddy check his and he said he could see it's offset. So the last part of the puzzle might be the 2014 gearbox. Hard to say without having the parts to measure.
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Old 01-24-2015, 12:16 AM   #6621
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It says on the packet built with luxury, perhaps they should swap luxury for accuracy LOL.
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Old 01-24-2015, 04:30 AM   #6622
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I have 3 sets of blocks. One original from the 14 car. One +2 set that i bought a year ago and one new set from my 15 car. I took measurements of all 3 sets and they are all a bit off center. Even the two +2 sets are slightly different. The older one has a greater offset than the newer one. I never felt any problems when racing so i didn't care. But i am sure that this wasn't ment to be like that.
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Old 01-24-2015, 05:08 AM   #6623
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
I can say that 3.5 toe with a shorty pack works extremely well on a clay track. I'm just going to leave my car with 3.5 toe until there is a fix. Also tried 500k in the center diff up from 100k. It may not be for everybody but you can drive the car a lot more agresive with 500k.
I think you should still be able to achieve close to 3.5 deg and keep the car straight, but only with the central roll position. RCgod measured it as a full degree difference with all zero inserts, but mine seemed to even out pretty well with only .5deg difference in the inserts. I'll play around with a couple combos and see what I find, but I don't have the means to measure the angles as precise as he does.

I am also toying with the idea of taking some inserts with the 1 deg hole up in a corner, and seeing if there's enough meat to drill my own hole down on the other side to make my own LRC inserts that will actually keep the car true. FWIW, according to the instructions the .5 deg insert has the hole at .375mm off center, and the 1 deg insert has the hole at .75mm off center if that factors in to anybody's math or solutions.


I can only hope that Xray's response was one that was used previously when people may have noticed the asymmetrical brace on the 2014, when it actually was appropriate(apparently). Perhaps they have not recognized a difference in the gearboxes yet. Perhaps their response was to questions solely about the rear hinge brace, and we haven't fully pointed out the problem resulting from the total assembly of all the new parts.........

I built my center diff with 300k yesterday, looking forward to trying it out tomorrow.
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Old 01-24-2015, 05:20 AM   #6624
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Kelvin look at my post 6615 & 6617. I didn't have any high tech measurement tool just a straight ruler and a piece of paper. I took off the side guards and shocks to trace the chassis and suspension arms. With 0/0 blocks the toe definitely is off but with .5/0 the toe is even.
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Old 01-24-2015, 06:17 AM   #6625
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spu83 View Post
Kelvin look at my post 6615 & 6617. I didn't have any high tech measurement tool just a straight ruler and a piece of paper. I took off the side guards and shocks to trace the chassis and suspension arms. With 0/0 blocks the toe definitely is off but with .5/0 the toe is even.
I saw those, and it reflects what I have found with my own measurements, but it slightly contradicts what RCgod found with precision equipment. By his measurements you would need to go with a .5 out on the left and a .5 in on the right to make them even @ 3 deg of toe, or just a 1 deg out on the left for 3.5 deg of toe I think, but perhaps his kit is off more than ours....
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Old 01-24-2015, 08:38 AM   #6626
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinpratt823 View Post
I saw those, and it reflects what I have found with my own measurements, but it slightly contradicts what RCgod found with precision equipment. By his measurements you would need to go with a .5 out on the left and a .5 in on the right to make them even @ 3 deg of toe, or just a 1 deg out on the left for 3.5 deg of toe I think, but perhaps his kit is off more than ours....
The measurements I took were with 0 pills. I didn't remeasure but putting a .5 in one side evens it out visually like you guys are seeing.
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Old 01-24-2015, 09:10 AM   #6627
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Just built my 15, this is bad news for sure... First thing im doing when im back from work is messuring my toe blocks.
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Old 01-24-2015, 09:17 AM   #6628
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Right now I'm running all inserts 1 down to the inside except one on the shorter side 1 down. Everything is pretty close but still a tad off.
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Old 01-24-2015, 09:54 AM   #6629
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Hello Fellas,

I just ordered my 15' XB4 and was surprised to read about these issues. Are there possibly hangers and inserts from different manufactures that posdibly work in fixing the situation. Maybe Yokomo, Kyosho etc.
Are the hanger insert hollows off? I am sure XRay is flustered as I would imagine any mistake on their part would be highly unexpected. Thus they may not be able to address the situation with solutions that bring relief to 15' XB4 owners at this time do to being totally off guard.
Any thoughts on other hangers?
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Old 01-24-2015, 09:59 AM   #6630
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to norse I would put together and run.. I have 2015 and .5mm off and i would say this wheeler kicks a$$..only thing i upgraded was to progressive springs and running stock settings and love it.!!!Now just need to be better driver...lol
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