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Old 01-15-2015, 04:54 PM   #6451
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the center diff does take away that power snap that a slipper has. keep in mind a slipper is normally was "stiffer" than 100k. Doing up in center diff oil will give you more forward snap. But it will effect steering and other things as well. Just put a 5.5 in it, lol

yeah thanks for the info. I planned on going up to 200k and have 300k and 500k if needed, but as for motor my orion r10.1pro and vst2 6.5t should be plenty of motor. it was the center diff keeping me from clearing the quad, even some of the top 2wd mod buggy drivers were able to clear the triple. so with that being said 100k just isnt enough for med/high bit track. put 200k in and will let everyone know how it drives this weekend. overall I did like the 100k over the slipper as It was so much easier to drive and totally noticeably faster going in and out of the corners.

xray xb4 + center diff = a hell of a good time....
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Old 01-15-2015, 06:51 PM   #6452
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Thanks for the info on the thick diff oil.

Another question, I ordered some AKA Typos for my buggy and didn't realize that they required special "EVO" wheels to mount them.

What wheels could I order for the XB4 that will work with these tires?

Will I need to get the hex adapters and use 12mm wheels?
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Old 01-15-2015, 09:10 PM   #6453
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Originally Posted by Slippery Dan View Post
Thanks for the info on the thick diff oil.

Another question, I ordered some AKA Typos for my buggy and didn't realize that they required special "EVO" wheels to mount them.

What wheels could I order for the XB4 that will work with these tires?

Will I need to get the hex adapters and use 12mm wheels?
They make the wheels for Losi and B44..
Losi is 12 and 12,
b44 is 12 and 9.8(something goofy like that)..

I do like the 2.4 wheels.. I dont like the b44 adaptors, they are to small.
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Old 01-15-2015, 09:36 PM   #6454
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It raises the roll center, but the rest is correct ;-)
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Old 01-16-2015, 12:39 AM   #6455
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Originally Posted by Slippery Dan View Post
Thanks for the info on the thick diff oil.

Another question, I ordered some AKA Typos for my buggy and didn't realize that they required special "EVO" wheels to mount them.

What wheels could I order for the XB4 that will work with these tires?

Will I need to get the hex adapters and use 12mm wheels?
You can also do this and run on the stock Xray wheels

http://www.raceaka.com/110-EVO-CONVE...T-_p_1076.html
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Old 01-16-2015, 06:59 AM   #6456
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****If anybody with a 2015 kit can check the following stuff out on their car, I'd appreciate some feedback about what you find, for your sake and mine*****

The following pics are with the car set up to the basic clay setup that is linked directly from the "downloads" part of the 2015 kit Xray page, with both sets of rear hinge pin braces with 1 deg. inserts in the lower inner positions as shown. I had put one o-ring on each shaft, but they were doing nothing anyway apparently. You can see that I removed both rear springs and spring cups to illustrate this point. With both dogbones completely vertical in the outdrives, the chassis does not even come close to bottoming out because the dogbone pins are bottoming out into the outdrive notches. It is obvious from the pics that it is not just a little bit, it's rather drastic. The right side outdrive actually protrudes a bit farther for some reason, so it stops even shorter. I am built in shorty configuration, so my diff is in the opposite way as a saddle configuration, so I would speculate that saddle may have the issue more on the left side. Regardless of how many o-rings you put on, a chassis that doesn't reach the ground is not good, but fwiw I had about 9mm of shock shaft left from the rod end to the shock body in this pic.
I then tried all the 0 deg/central hole inserts that the manual calls for as initial position, I will post those pics in a minute separately so as not to get them confused, but it just barely allows the chassis to bottom out on the left, while the right is still a hair off the surface. Please guys look into this on your cars, we should certainly be able to get more up travel than this, and with a car that has so much adjust-ability we should certainly be able to use those adjustments.

For a quick test, with your car off the ground, hold a rear wheel and compress the rear suspension fully, now rotate the wheel and see if you see/feel it pushing back down as the dogdone pins go vertical. If your hingepin inserts are in the outer positions you may not notice it as much, but if they're in the center or inner I'm pretty sure you will. I am guessing the issue stems from them making the dogbones long enough to use the widest track adjustments, but I think it backfired and they went too long to use the narrower track adjustments.

Been running my xray xb4 '15 a couple of weeks found out my rear drive shaft has rubbing outside the differential outdrive cup. I think the rear outdrive is long also running 1* insert outside.
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Old 01-16-2015, 12:08 PM   #6457
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Been running my xray xb4 '15 a couple of weeks found out my rear drive shaft has rubbing outside the differential outdrive cup. I think the rear outdrive is long also running 1* insert outside.
Yours is a different issue, and that is what is resolved with putting 3 o-rings on the shock shaft(outside the shock body) somebody posted the tip a couple pages ago from the xray forum.http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/new...3dc6c69eb12f70
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Old 01-16-2015, 01:55 PM   #6458
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Yours is a different issue, and that is what is resolved with putting 3 o-rings on the shock shaft(outside the shock body) somebody posted the tip a couple pages ago from the xray forum.http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/new...3dc6c69eb12f70
Thank you the tip. I will put "O" ring outside the shaft to eliminate the driveshaft rubbing differential outdrive cup
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Old 01-16-2015, 03:50 PM   #6459
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Thank you the tip. I will put "O" ring outside the shaft to eliminate the driveshaft rubbing differential outdrive cup
Don't forget that depending on mounting position of the shock etc. that you might also need to add internal limiters inside the shock below the piston....
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Old 01-16-2015, 03:53 PM   #6460
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For anybody following along with my dogbone issue, here is some info I just sent in reply to an email from Bryan at RC America:

"Thanks Bryan.

I just removed the shocks for the sake of it, no difference. The camber links are free floating when it's bottomed out and bound against the bone (in it's vertical position).
To be honest I don't remember positively now if I reset camber with the 0 deg inserts, so FWIW, I just played around with camber and this is what I found-

While the inserts were set in the inner position, as I brought the camber down, I had to go to about 1 deg before the chassis would touch the ground, but it was still a tad up on the right side with just a touch of tension left on the right bone.

I also just put in the 1 deg center inserts, so they are in the 1 deg, bottom/center position. At 2.5 deg w/19mm ride height it is just barely off the ground on the right side. As I back the camber off, right when it gets under 2 deg is when the chassis is finally on the ground and the tension starts to come off the bone.

Maybe I just got the "Perfect Storm" effect of all the wrong parts being at the wrong ends of their tolerances and that's why we aren't noticing anything way out of whack? If you think about it, as in the first instance of the inserts in the inner position, we're talking about 1.5 deg of camber to get it flat, which is only approx 1 full turn on the turnbuckle, which by what I just measured is approx a .75mm change in length of the turnbuckle.

The way I just set the car up that works is as follows:
1 deg inserts in middle lower positions, 19mm ride height, with 2.5 deg camber, and 3 o-rings on the shock shafts. This is basically the threshold I can go to. The o-rings bottom out with the chassis about 1mm off the board, and the car still rolls freely, it appears I just can't get the same setup numbers with any insert position closer in than center."

It should probably be noted that due to the fact that the CV is about halfway between the arm pin and the turnbuckle, the .75mm(1 full turn) on the turnbuckle really likely only translates to maybe .35mm that the dogbone moves in/out, so if things are off it only needs to be a small fraction.
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Old 01-16-2015, 03:55 PM   #6461
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Oh, BTW. I was going to order some aluminum shock caps and CV collars, and I was digging the orange, so I'll probably spring for the lower caps and collars just to add some bling. Is there anyplace in particular you guys would reccomend, other than directly from Exotek, to get some of that stuff?
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Old 01-16-2015, 04:04 PM   #6462
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Originally Posted by kevinpratt823 View Post
Oh, BTW. I was going to order some aluminum shock caps and CV collars, and I was digging the orange, so I'll probably spring for the lower caps and collars just to add some bling. Is there anyplace in particular you guys would reccomend, other than directly from Exotek, to get some of that stuff?
I ordered mine from Exotek as those were the only ones i saw. But Spec R does sell some hop ups which 1 of them being really badass, Its the wing mount. i found that its much better then stock or Exoteks because the spec R has a extra space to grb the diff case so it dont break the shock tower as easy on a hard roof landing. Spec R also has some pretty cool aluminum hubs.
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Old 01-16-2015, 04:27 PM   #6463
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I ordered mine from Exotek as those were the only ones i saw. But Spec R does sell some hop ups which 1 of them being really badass, Its the wing mount. i found that its much better then stock or Exoteks because the spec R has a extra space to grb the diff case so it dont break the shock tower as easy on a hard roof landing. Spec R also has some pretty cool aluminum hubs.
I saw that when I did a quick search, and may look into it down the road, but I didn't want to wait for the stuff to come from China either. How were they for shipping? Aluminum wing mounts still make me a bit nervous about breaking other parts instead though, is the wing mount one of the vulnerable parts on the car?
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Old 01-16-2015, 05:12 PM   #6464
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I've never driven a wheeler with a center diff, but some of this talk makes me wonder if it would be better to go back to the slipper if you need to run 500k or higher diff fluid. Isn't that basically almost locking the center diff?
I want to get into wheeler but finding out about all the center diff issue verse a sliper really keeps you on the fence as to which car to buy. I watched a vid on 100k but it was for on road. Or maybe even higher, you needed a putty knife. I race a Losi sc4x4 and only use a max of 7k in the center dif. This must be at least twice the weight of a 10th scale buggy. If you are needing that thick of diff oil I might try JB Weld. Do you guys really find this nessary in 1/10 buggy?
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Old 01-16-2015, 05:48 PM   #6465
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Maybe theyll come out with a locker for it 🔐
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