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Old 01-14-2015, 02:52 AM   #6421
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I'm going to make a really dumb suggestion and the only reason I am is because I had the same kind of problem with my B4.1. It seemed as though the axles were longer on my buggy than everyone else's, when I'd turn the rear wheels they'd bind in the outdrives. Make sure your pins are going through the drive shaft coupler the right way. Make sure the pin is going through the small hole and not the large hole.

In the pic I had the pin going through the larger hole (the red arrow) in the coupler rather than the smaller hole where it's supposed to go. Made a big difference.

Nope. I don't even think it would be possible with this car as that little barrel is solid, there is no other hole. They spin fine at an angle outside the car, and I had the right side one apart yesterday and everything was fine. I was actually wondering if the holes in the axle could have been off, but that doesn't seem plausible either.
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Old 01-14-2015, 06:26 AM   #6422
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Hey guys not sure how many people have had problems or wear on the car yet . But I am running my Xb4 15 at my local carpet track that has medium traction . Basically I am having a real issue with my outdrives and my outdrives on the slipper shaft both front and rear of the car . Not sure if any of you have had excessive wear on these parts but mine is getting pretty bad to the point that I'm almost second guessing this beautiful car because my wallet can not afford outdrives every couple weeks . This being said I have been staying on top and replacing my driveshaft pins .

if anyone can chime in on this that would be great

Thanks in advance
In my experience, it sounds like your brake strength is set to high. I did the same thing to the out-drives on my 2014 XB4. We run on a wet clay track using slicks and it is ultra high traction like carpet. The notching is usually not from acceleration as much as it is from braking. With that much traction, when you brake hard the car stops almost instantly and the pin from the bone is slamming the out-drive that has been instantly stopped/locked. Even from a racing performance perspective, having the brake strength too high can cause the car to track poorly when braking. After replacing the out-drives on my 2014 (and they are crazy expensive ), I set my brake strength to about 45% which allows the car to stop gradually without locking the wheels. Those out-drives lasted me until I sold the car which at that point was three times longer than the original out-drives lasted.
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Old 01-14-2015, 06:52 AM   #6423
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so they say this is for medium to high traction tracks. On the setup sheets on their site none say to use this. Thoughts?
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Old 01-14-2015, 07:13 AM   #6424
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so they say this is for medium to high traction tracks. On the setup sheets on their site none say to use this. Thoughts?
Here’s the issue for me. What constitutes a high traction track? Without some kind of universal measurement that can be displayed accurately it really comes down to “try it and see if it works for you”. I’m sure what we in the northeast consider high traction the guys out in Cali would consider mid-bite. Unless the idea is high traction is considered carpet/astro then it really hard to know if this option would work for you at your track.
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Old 01-14-2015, 07:24 AM   #6425
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anyone run the center diff yet?
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Old 01-14-2015, 08:09 AM   #6426
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anyone run the center diff yet?
Should have mine for this weekend..
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Old 01-14-2015, 08:55 AM   #6427
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anyone run the center diff yet?
Dialed. Running 100k.
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Old 01-14-2015, 09:00 AM   #6428
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Dialed. Running 100k.
Ditto! Center diff with 100K is awesome!
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Old 01-14-2015, 09:50 AM   #6429
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Ditto! Center diff with 100K is awesome!
What sort of surface are you guys running on? What tires are you running? Have you tried 500k?
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Old 01-14-2015, 09:53 AM   #6430
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anyone run the center diff yet?

Yes, we have been running it on carpet with 1000K.

Great tuning aid for some tracks, but at the DHI Cup this weekend the feeling was too soft with the center diff, so the slipper was definitely quicker there.

A tuning aid I wouldn't want to be without, but not always the fastest option.....
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Old 01-14-2015, 02:20 PM   #6431
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For those of you running 500k and or 1 mill in the center diff, how are you getting this thick glop in there? lol

I just received the Hudy containers and they are so thick that I basically have to scoop them in. Warming didn't help much either.

I'm afraid that without the paste settling I would either get too much or too little in the diff.
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Old 01-14-2015, 02:26 PM   #6432
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For those of you running 500k and or 1 mill in the center diff, how are you getting this thick glop in there? lol

I just received the Hudy containers and they are so thick that I basically have to scoop them in. Warming didn't help much either.

I'm afraid that without the paste settling I would either get too much or too little in the diff.
Just put 500k in my twin hammers, I had to scoop it in, then i pushed it in with a driver, spun the gears around a bunch, let it sit for a few hours, then repeated the whole process. Maybe a bit overkill, im not sure as it was my first time, but it worked!
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Old 01-14-2015, 02:32 PM   #6433
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For those of you running 500k and or 1 mill in the center diff, how are you getting this thick glop in there? lol

I just received the Hudy containers and they are so thick that I basically have to scoop them in. Warming didn't help much either.

I'm afraid that without the paste settling I would either get too much or too little in the diff.
I use something like a small screwdriver or similar. Dip it in the "glop" and coat all the internal gears individually when assembling the diff, I also use it to coat all other internal surfaces and parts. Then I use the same tool to get an amount of the "glop" that I estimate as the correct one and put it in the diff. Then I let it sit over night, and make a final adjustment if needed the next day.
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Old 01-14-2015, 02:45 PM   #6434
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SmfInldgGsc#t=248
This guy has a syringe with the tip cut off that he uses to push the fluid into the diff.
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Old 01-14-2015, 04:45 PM   #6435
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What sort of surface are you guys running on? What tires are you running? Have you tried 500k?
I'm running on an indoor clay track. On a scale of 1 to 10, I'd say traction is a 7.5. We usually run a clay compound tire, like AKA Typos, Pro-Line Electron or JConcepts Dirt Webs. If the track is cold or starts to dust up a bit, I switch over to Super Soft Electrons or Dirt Webs. I have only tried 100K thus far. I really have no intentions of trying anything different at the moment because the car is the best its ever been and I don't feel like dealing with scooping super glue in and out of a diff
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