kevinpratt823

iTrader: (12)

Hey thanks man. That is a 2015 correct?



I got home and measured my axles, 67.987mm, right where they are supposed to be. I actually spent some time on the phone with Brian from RC America, what a great experience to be able to speak to somebody about it. He spent a good ammount of time with me, measuring parts and comparing, but unfortunately nothing jumped out as off. Driveshaft measures, outdrives measure, outer driveshaft fits fine and leaves little doubt, and bearings are seated flush, if they weren't I wouldn't have gotten the hex drive pin in.

He looked at these pics on the Xray forum, as I posted a lot of it there, and he is forwarding the info and pics to the factory, it's truly bizzare. If anything was that obvious, the car likely wouldn't have gone together smooth, so we were both a bit puzzled. I tried swapping diffs front to rear, no different. FWIW, on these diffs, the outdrive opposite the gear does protrude 1mm farther, as the plastic race of the diff case goes beyond the bearing 1mm, this is why it is a bigger difference on one side, but if this was a defect the diff would not be working smooth (I broke them in with a cordless drill before I even put them in, no issues), or I would have had trouble putting it together. Also worth noting, on the rear/rear brace, the right side insert square hole was almost .5mm farther from the screw hole than the left, but he measure about .3mm difference on one from the warehouse........regardless, that was the side that was actually worse for me, if anything that would have helped.....

Somebody asked, so here are a couple pics of the depth of the bones at full droop(w/1mm downstop), and flat on the table. Like I said, the left outdrive notch just barely recesses into the gearbox, while the right side notch protrudes about 1mm, due to the difference in the diff, but both sides still have the issue.

GregerL

iTrader: (1)

Yes it is a 2015

For the inner positions though, you will probably need to use a fair amount of up stop shims. I haven't checked how it behaves in the inner lower position, but the people running it are using external up-stop on the dampers. Lower middle position though works good with the possibility for the chassis to bottom out.

You can have a look at this tech-tip: http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/new...3dc6c69eb12f70

It is for the '13 and '14 car but believe it still holds true, the situation has changed slightly with the +2 hangers though.

kevinpratt823

iTrader: (12)

Thanks. FWIW I don't think the +2mm brace changes anything, as it just eliminates the use of a shim under it from my understanding. The tip certainly makes sense, but I think you would agree that what I am experiencing is a bit beyond that realm, being that I'm not exactly hitting the outdrive like in the tip pics, and I would need about 8-9 o-rings, and my chassis wouldn't even come close to the ground when they bottomed. Not to mention the fact that you could not duplicate the issue with your kit. Thanks for staying with me on the issue.

HeavyD99

iTrader: (15)

Is it possible that the arms are on the wrong sides or backwards? Since you measured the dog bones and the diffs are the right size, something else must be the matter...are the arms correct?

kevinpratt823

iTrader: (12)

Been there, checked that, every which way, the arms are correct. FYI, the pics of the arms in the manual are the older style arms, not the more recent ones that have the option of shocks in front or back.

GregerL

iTrader: (1)

Well, not exactly right. The shim actually lifted the whole bulkhead assembly including the hangers, so in relation to the chassis and the pin mounting points you are correct, but the distance between the shock tower and the pin mounting points has gotten 2mm shorter....

kevinpratt823

iTrader: (12)

I see. So it basically it would have allowed for more downtravel of the arms, and a bit less uptravel limiting would be required as the shocks would bottom slightly earlier, and it potentially put the outdrives 2mm closer to the hinge pins?

And not that some obvious and silly mistake is entirely out of the question, but it is pretty unlikely at this point, I've covered all the bases. Just to give you guys an idea of my background, I have also built, tested, tuned, modded, and raced numerous cars over the years. I race 3-4 classes almost every weekend, and I currently run/race/maintain a 22-2.0, 22sct, SCT410, (2)EB48's, 8ight nitro, and 8ight-T-E...... not to mention the Pro-8, crawler, mini 8's and a 5ive-T..... along with a fleet of electric boats(this winters 45" twin cat build should break 100mph by end of summer) But I have never had an issue that was this unclear.
And if you're ever in the Boston area hit me up, this is my side yard, complete with in-ground sprinklers and lighting, and the equipment to build, change, and maintain it, always looking for new faces to run with here.......

+ YouTube Video

suby723

iTrader: (21)

It's rather strange about your axle length issues. Here is my 15 box stock.

Only thing weird is that my pic keeps going upside down while posting from an iPhone. Lol

kevinpratt823

iTrader: (12)

Your pins sit a lot farther out in the outdrives, what position are your hinge pin inserts at? Also, how do you have your outer hinge pins?

EricW

iTrader: (1)

I'm going to make a really dumb suggestion and the only reason I am is because I had the same kind of problem with my B4.1. It seemed as though the axles were longer on my buggy than everyone else's, when I'd turn the rear wheels they'd bind in the outdrives. Make sure your pins are going through the drive shaft coupler the right way. Make sure the pin is going through the small hole and not the large hole.

In the pic I had the pin going through the larger hole (the red arrow) in the coupler rather than the smaller hole where it's supposed to go. Made a big difference.

suby723

iTrader: (21)

0 and outer hinge pin is stock location(per manual).

MaricopaAgent

iTrader: (28)

Both of my pics are 2015's.. One has a '14 diff in it, so it shows wear.

yunowill

Hey guys not sure how many people have had problems or wear on the car yet . But I am running my Xb4 15 at my local carpet track that has medium traction . Basically I am having a real issue with my outdrives and my outdrives on the slipper shaft both front and rear of the car . Not sure if any of you have had excessive wear on these parts but mine is getting pretty bad to the point that I'm almost second guessing this beautiful car because my wallet can not afford outdrives every couple weeks . This being said I have been staying on top and replacing my driveshaft pins .

if anyone can chime in on this that would be great

Thanks in advance

John Myall

Have you run it a lot? The only time I had wear on my outdrives is when I hadn't changed the pins in the driveshafts before they wore too much, making the outdrives wear along side them. Change the pins when they start to go flat & you shouldn't have the problem with the outdrives wearing.

John Myall

I don't run the shim under the rear gearbox on my '13 car & don't have any problems like Kevin has. Running the std kit hangers as well.