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Old 01-08-2015, 01:36 PM   #6331
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Here it is....if I remeber right.
Take the kick-up out of the front hinge pins. Try 6 degree caster blocks. Try 3 dot front springs and 1 dot rear. You can also try the car without a front swaybar.
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Old 01-08-2015, 01:40 PM   #6332
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Originally Posted by blwaz23 View Post
I'm running my XB4 2015 with the shorty conversion and stock setup for about 1-2 weeks now. For the tire choice I chose the Jconcepts Blue Bar codes on the front because they work the best for the track I race at. They were bald a week after I bought them. Any suggestions on how to make the front tires last longer or does the XB4 like to eat front tires?
How many days racing in a week? What is the normal tire life at your track?

Slipper or Gear diff..

Fluid levels ok in the diffs?
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Old 01-08-2015, 02:35 PM   #6333
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How many days racing in a week? What is the normal tire life at your track?

Slipper or Gear diff..

Fluid levels ok in the diffs?
I race every Saturday, practice every Tuesday, and race every Wednesday.

Normal tire life for 4wd depends on buggy the locals race but I would say 1 month for fronts with 1-2 races every week.

I run the slipper in the XB4 2015.

Every Saturday night I basically take the car apart and clean it. I check the diffs to see if anything leaks and the gear boxes are dry as they were when I put the diffs in. the diffs are not leaking.

Also I run 8k/slipper/8k for diff fluids
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Old 01-08-2015, 03:29 PM   #6334
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All rigged up. Still wondering why I have play in my springs when it is off the ground after ride hieght is set to 19mm.......Basic clay setup, but put 2mm downstop shims in front and 1mm in rear, screwed shock ends all the way over the threads, and moved rears to inside hole on arm. Hopeing this layout works, wanted to keep the motor wires short and the weight more even in the rear. I hope heat won't be an issue with motor and esc close together.

DE Speedline DEX410 wheels btw.
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Old 01-08-2015, 06:32 PM   #6335
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Originally Posted by kevinpratt823 View Post
All rigged up. Still wondering why I have play in my springs when it is off the ground after ride hieght is set to 19mm.......Basic clay setup, but put 2mm downstop shims in front and 1mm in rear, screwed shock ends all the way over the threads, and moved rears to inside hole on arm. Hopeing this layout works, wanted to keep the motor wires short and the weight more even in the rear. I hope heat won't be an issue with motor and esc close together.

DE Speedline DEX410 wheels btw.
If you do screw the ballend all the way over the thread it may bind up the pivot ball in the ball end. Then the suspension will feel sluggish, very pack feel to it..

Sorry I cant help you on your spring play question. I run a 20mm ride height and have no spring play. I use 3dot fronts, 1dot rear. I still running saddles packs. More info required.
Front or rear?
What springs are you using?
What is the total length of the shock?
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Old 01-08-2015, 09:05 PM   #6336
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Droop shims, shock length and the shock end all have no effect on the ride height, or where the collars rest. If the car and the springs are new, I'd just run it a couple packs and see if the springs settle a bit.
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Old 01-08-2015, 09:09 PM   #6337
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Hey guys just a quick question/concern .

First things first I have been into rc for many years and also competitive racing at my local tracks . I have had many cars before this XB4 and have bleed many shocks in my time . I love the Xray it is the best 4wd buggy I have ever had and raced with .


My question is no matter what I do and how I bleed the shocks there is always a squishy feeling right at the top of the shock when I compress the shock . I am building my shocks with zero rebound . I have gone through a few bottles of shock oil trying to get a nice shock . Is there something that I am missing to figuring out how to get rid of that squishy noise in the shock when its fully compressed or almost about to be fully compressed ?

If anybody knows please share

Thank you
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Old 01-08-2015, 10:06 PM   #6338
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinpratt823 View Post
All rigged up. Still wondering why I have play in my springs when it is off the ground after ride hieght is set to 19mm.......Basic clay setup, but put 2mm downstop shims in front and 1mm in rear, screwed shock ends all the way over the threads, and moved rears to inside hole on arm. Hopeing this layout works, wanted to keep the motor wires short and the weight more even in the rear. I hope heat won't be an issue with motor and esc close together.

DE Speedline DEX410 wheels btw.
Nothing to do with your spring problem but I suggest u add a bit of weight to the front left side of that thing.
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Old 01-09-2015, 12:37 AM   #6339
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Hey guys just a quick question/concern .

First things first I have been into rc for many years and also competitive racing at my local tracks . I have had many cars before this XB4 and have bleed many shocks in my time . I love the Xray it is the best 4wd buggy I have ever had and raced with .


My question is no matter what I do and how I bleed the shocks there is always a squishy feeling right at the top of the shock when I compress the shock . I am building my shocks with zero rebound . I have gone through a few bottles of shock oil trying to get a nice shock . Is there something that I am missing to figuring out how to get rid of that squishy noise in the shock when its fully compressed or almost about to be fully compressed ?

If anybody knows please share

Thank you
That's just a little bit of air in the shock. You can leave the piston a little lower when you bleed it to try and keep more oil in the shock, but personally I wouldn't worry too much about it. An emulsion shock needs air to work properly, so it's not a big deal. I'd just match the shocks left and right to make sure they're even.
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Old 01-09-2015, 04:50 AM   #6340
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TV or qualified fellow racer - I picked up a xb4 '15 and so far I love it, very easy to drive and responds to changes. What is the difference in how the car will handle with diff set ups(w/slipper) 8kF 8kR and 5kF 3kR? when would you want to use either set up? Thanks for any help you can provide!!
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Old 01-09-2015, 05:01 AM   #6341
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Originally Posted by TV View Post
Droop shims, shock length and the shock end all have no effect on the ride height, or where the collars rest. If the car and the springs are new, I'd just run it a couple packs and see if the springs settle a bit.
They are not used to set the ride height, but they do have effects on it. Adjusting any of the above items does cause the lower suspension arm to move which will change the preload on a spring in most instances and then effect the ride height.
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Old 01-09-2015, 08:33 AM   #6342
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Just got my kit and have a question. I noticed that they are still coming with the plastic diff gears: #304930 + #304980 COMPOSITE (STANDARD) and that some of you have switched over to the NT gears, I'm assuming (from the manual):#335030 + #335080 (Steel) ... as well as noticing that XRAY has updated the 14T bevel drive gears.

Have you guys had issues with the plastic gears? I have heard that you have to be conservative on the slipper... is that just for the 2014 or for the 2015 as well since it still has plastic gears or have the problem gears been addressed? I will be running a 5.5 on carpet which is going to be pretty hard on the drive-train.
The internal gears are good even on high bite. We have several guys running the 2013 and 2014 cars outdoor high bite sugared track with no failures in almost a year. I just recently sold my 2014 car and it still had the original internal diff gears but I've stripped at least 6 ring and pinions because I like my slipper tight. It will be nice not to have to worry about that anymore. That being said, the new metal ring and pinion and NT internal gears should make a totally bomb proof diff.
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Old 01-09-2015, 09:17 AM   #6343
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Pretty much finished up my build. Went together flawless and I'm very impressed with the quality. Starting with a gear diff with 100k.
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Old 01-09-2015, 10:05 AM   #6344
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Nice deal here in canadian dollars! no time for off-road!
Buy / Sell
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Old 01-09-2015, 11:03 AM   #6345
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I have a leaky rear diff on my 2014, I switched over to the steel gears in the diffs. I've changed the gasket in the diff with no luck. Seems to be leaking out around where the steel gear and the diff case meet. The front diff is fine, no leaking at all. I'm running 10k up front and 5k in the leaky rear diff.

Any tips or pointers on how to prevent the leak?
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